The LT1 is the only Anduril light I’m aware of which does tint ramping. If I understand correctly, the IF25 has tint ramping but no Anduril, while the IF25A has Anduril but no tint ramping.
I think what happened was, during the LT1 development process, there was some miscommunication. BLF provided a driver and firmware, but sofirn thought it was only an idea or a suggestion, so sofirn designed a similar driver and firmware based on what BLF sent. Then we got the confusion cleared up, and produced the LT1. However, sofirn wanted to do something with their version, and turned it into the IF25.
At some point another version was made, the IF25A, with a different driver and no tint ramping. I don’t really know any of the details though, since I only discovered its existence a few weeks ago when someone asked why its thermal regulation didn’t work.
Thank you to everyone for your answers. I already have the LT1, and was hoping for tint ramping in an Anduril flashlight I could EDC. Would be nice if this becomes a more widely available feature. Maybe in, say, D4V3 whenever that comes out… Tint ramping together with higher regulated current would be fantastic.
I’d be on board with that. I’d love to have that feature, and it would finally provide a compelling reason to use a quad instead of a triple.
Aside from allowing adjustable CCT, the other nice thing is that it pulls the tint down toward pink. It usually makes things look nicer, by avoiding the “lemongrass” tint effect on a lot of recent LEDs. This is because the color space is curved… but tint mixing happens along a straight line. For example, when mixing 2700K and 5000K:
I’d like to see a D4 with 2x5700K LEDs and 2x3000K LEDs. Or maybe even 2x6500K and 2x2700K. And, of course, the ability to tint ramp between. It might need a lightly frosted optic though, to avoid yellow and blue artifacts in the corona area of the beam.
I received two D4V2’s about a month ago, one aluminum and one titanium. Both of them blink out a firmware date of 2019 10 15. I can’t associate this date with any Anduril update on TK’s repository. Is it possible that the wrong firmware was flashed to these lights? Everything works as expected, but I was hoping to know if my lights captured the new thermal updates made late last year.
*edit: spelling
The code revision dates and firmware build dates don’t always line up exactly… especially if I’m developing code for a new light in a different branch. However, it should still be possible to get a pretty good idea which changes are included in a particular light, by looking at the code’s change log.
Anyway, a short summary of the D4v2 firmware changes as they relate to thermal regulation…
2019-05-22: Improved thermal regulation
2019-06-20: D4v2 released.
2019-07-18: Fixed D4v2’s muggle mode issue, same day it was discovered
2019-11-19: Kinda broke thermal regulation while merging in a major rewrite of some underlying code
2019-12-17: Mostly fixed thermal regulation, roughly how it was before
2019-03-16: Greatly improved thermal regulation with a major rewrite
So… if yours says 2019-10-15, it may not be the latest but it shouldn’t have any significant issues that I’m aware of. The worst is that it may occasionally miss a button click while it’s off… which was fixed on 2019-11-19.
In any case, there’s no harm in getting a flashing kit if you want to keep it updated. It’s not necessary, but it’ll let you get new features as they happen.
Good to know, thank you for clarifying, ToyKeeper, and appreciate the quick response. I should definitely have ordered the flashing kit with the lights, I’ll get one on my next order for sure. Just wish I could update my SP36 BLF as easily!
I own both an anodized aluminum and Ti version of the D4v2 and I’m finding that I really prefer the feeling of the aluminum (w/ anodization) to the (what I believe is uncoated / raw) titanium.
The brass one looks amazing in photos, but I don’t think I’d actually enjoy handling it if it’s completely raw. And over time the brass patina would make it worse I think.
Can anyone who owns the D4v2 Brass version comment? Is it coated? Does the metal have a smell?
Just received my D4V2 brass the other day. I don’t believe it’s coated. I have not had the D4V2 very long, but based on my FW3B, brass does not smell nearly as much as copper, it’s more durable, slightly lighter, and doesn’t tarnish/patina nearly as much as copper. The threads are just so smooth. One of my favorite metals for a flashlight.
I received the brass D4V2 yesterday and can confirm it is raw and not coated. It doesn’t smell compare to a raw copper and instead of letting it patina naturally, I forced patina it out of the box.
Thanks to you both! Guess I can hold off for now…guess raw lights just aren’t for me. Hoping the D4v2 aluminum gets some snazzy new colors some time so I can order another one in 2700K. lol
felixtan, would love to see the forced patina. Got a pic?
Hi everyone. I have a Emisar D4V2 that I think I might have broken, and was wondering if I’m missing something. FWIW, I’ve already bought a replacement from intl-outdoor.com ( ’cause even if I can fix the first, two is always better )
So, the problem started when I held the light about a foot underwater for about 30 seconds, looking for something I had dropped.
Later, I noticed that the emitters were making light even in ‘off’ mode. It looks like the low level of ‘candle’ mode. It persists
through a factory reset ( both unscrewing the tailcap and holding the button, as well as the 13h )
Is there anything I’m not thinking of? I stepped the light through the strobes loop, everything seems to work. Actually everything seems OK, except the emitters making light in off mode.
Sounds like you might have a little bit of water ingress causing a small short. That could allow current to leak to the emitters while the light is off. Maybe try tossing the head into a bag of rice overnight and see if that improves things.
