I’m testing again at 4.20v, 44 minutes and it’s staying off after 44 minutes.
I’m not going to test things in .10v increments, to see exactly where the glitch begins, but in brief, casual testing, that’s what I’ve found. Battery SOC seems to matter in my particular light.
Chris
So, I must have a late D4V2 as I can’t get into muggle mode, not that I would ever use it anyway. I have to say, this is a wonderful light! I have been EDC’ing the FW3A since my first one came in. I carry it in lockout and now am adjusted to 4 quick clicks. With this light, I have the aux leds set to tell me I am in lockout, love that feature.
Regardless of all the excitement, I love it. Thanks Hank for bringing it to life and thanks TK for the wonderful firmwares you have created. Now, I have to have one of those pin adapters! Must play with firmware… I would love to see the moonlight mode go lower, could one modify the firmware to include more than 150 steps of brightness to allow for a lower 1 level step at the bottom?
Why are you even posting in this thread? You clearly hate Anduril, don't have the light yet keep posting how you think testing should have been done better and on top of that, post complete nonsense like the one I quoted. What is your malfunction??
What's the point of posting in this thread if you aren't going to contribute anything worthwhile or useful?
He does this in a lot of threads and anytime someone calls him out for this behavior he just deflects, but yes it is incredibly annoying.
you can have your opinions too ,best not be judgmental about other people’s opinion ,
actually this thread is now about anduril for obvious reasons.
Oh & mark M ,it’s no good trying to sends links ,I don’t know where it leads to because I wasn’t silly enough to click on it (unlike you 
)
please concentrate on discussions about this light or the buggy Firmware & try not to get upset about other people’s opinions that you don’t agree with , I’m not a sheep I don’t follow the heard , I have my own opinions , perhaps from now on you move forward instead of cluttering up the place with bickering.
Now back to the scheduled program.
At around 30 minutes my D4V2 suddenly came on in Turbo, turned it off and disengaged muggle as I was in a meeting going over matters concerning the recent death of my father.
But yeah, mine shows the glitch as well. No problem for me to not use muggle mode but since it has been my plan to change emitters from the beginning I will do a re-flash and proceed with firmware before modification for the sake of those here.
Will update here later…
It was a joke , i was implying I am muggles when it comes to geeky stuff like reflashing & stuff , it obviously went over your head ,just ignore it & move on.
pick on somebody else to bicker with ,I’m sure there’s a few you dislike.
I think I’ll swap out the SST-20 on one of my D4V2 for XPL HI.
SST-20 in this light looks quite greenish (more green than the SST-20 in my FW3A). And the reduction in max output and runtime at high output due to heat compared to XPL HI is quite noticeable.
Because the FW3A doesn’t have contacts for using a pogo pin adapter, you have to desolder the driver from the MCPCB so you can turn it around to attach the SOIC clip to the controller chip.
Programming vias to do backside flashing with pogo pins are newer to flashlights than the FW3A driver design, as far as I know, and there might not even be room on the FW3A driver to have fit them even if they had been identified as desirable at the time. It has a smaller driver board than the D4v2, and more 7135 chips that it had to fit.
I tested mine just now. With a cell at 3.79V inserted and set on muggle mode, after 17 minutes it began flashing (but not all that bright, just muggle brightness, so I don’t think mine would have gotten terribly hot). It let me ramp down, ramp up, ramp down, and turn off. It’s back to regular mode now, no more experimenting for me.
Anyway, I have zero reason to ‘loan out’ this light and therefore have zero use for muggle mode. And it’s so easy for me to tell from the aux colors what mode I’m in, I can’t see myself accidentally setting it to muggle and not noticing. So I have no gripes.
Oooohhh………… look at all the pretty colors………………………. . . . . . 
Mine came on in Turbo, no flashing… the 18500 cell was low enough I don’t think it would have seriously overheated anyway, and if it did it would be likely to de-solder a lead and die, but then I had it tailstanding on the table waiting for something to happen… just goes to show that e-switch lights need to be locked out before leaving unattended. Known glitch or no…
I agree, I had an Astrolux light that had a driver failure and the light would not turn off. I always mechanically lock out my lights.
Great point! I haven’t flashed mine yet, so I forgot that was part of the equation. It’ll be awesome when all the best flashlights come with a standard programming interface.
There is no need to unscrew the Tailcap and not enjoy the auxillaries. In fact, be sure you never turn your auxillaries off in ramping mode or electronic lockout. Then, if you happen to see that your auxillaries are off when your light is off, somehow you accidentally got your light into muggle mode. (Muggle mode is the only mode where the auxillaries are never operational while the light is turned off. There is no option in that mode to have the auxillaries on.)
I think I have set at least one of my other Anduril lights to not have the AUX on while in lockout mode… muggle mode may always have them turned off (learned something new today), but if you change the setting from default for the other modes, you may end up with a false positive for muggle mode. Better than a false negative I guess.
It seems I succeeded reflashing. I cutted and soldered wires to the programming key now directly but that was not the solution. Yesterday the connection check was succesful so that was OK.
the problem was I runned a batch file and if it get an error just blinked the AVRdude window for a milisecond and I doesn’t knew what went wrong. Today I opened AVRDUDE and typed in the line manually and it doesn’t find the file. All my other hex files are in the same directory as my AVRDUDE and batch files. I saw that it wanted to search in C drive users/zozz but there was no hex file there. I copied the hex there and voilá!
I don’t know why my old batch files work and this need a lot playing. But finally the light has reset feature so firmware is new now.
Grats Zozz!
Now everyone is going to want to send you their D4V2 for flashing!!! 
Nice work Zozz. 
Thanks!
And this was not even my light.
I am waiting for D4S V2 with these rgb aux leds. Do you hear me Hank? :partying_face: