Re: SST-20 vs XP-L HI - I was (un)fortunate(?) enough to have the latest iteration of D4 V1 arrive today, ahead of my D4 V2 which only got leaked a few days after my order had shipped.
My first D4 was an XP-L HI 3A 5000K. It has a very clean white but ever so slightly rosy tint at all output levels. Really nice.
My newest D4 is an SST-20 6500K, because I wanted to get the most powerful (throwy) version with a short tube to use as a showoff keychain light. In comparison to the XP-L HI one, I was very surprised to see just how much the tint changes over different output levels. At regulated and below it’s quite green, but when you start pushing in to hybrid drive, it gets very purple very quickly. I have also noticed that it tends to have more green/purple in the corona and is a bit whiter in the hot spot, unlike the XP-L HI which is consistent across the beam. I don’t actually mind the SST-20 when it starts to go a bit purple, but a lot of my usage is at the regulated level and I don’t like how green it looks at that point.
Another thing I was surprised about - when both D4s were running a fully charged 30Q, the SST-20 6500K got noticably hotter than the XP-L HI in a short space of time. I haven’t had chance to go out at night and compare the throw of both yet.
XP-L HI is more expensive, but I’m still happy to pay the premium. Really glad I played it safe and selected a 5D for my V2.
Exactly why I chose XPL Hi. I was also quite impressed with the Neutral White - XP-G2 S4 5D, 4000K - this had more rose than even the XPL Hi 4000k. I have 2 and they have the best tint of all offerings. Had way too many D4s come through my hands.
Jaxman E2L, Convoy S2+ (rubber boot switch and the metal switches), Eagtac D25C, Jaxman M8, etc.
Klarus Mini One TI: Twisty, so no.
Jetbeam RRT-01: I've actually found this twisted past the detente a couple times. No actual light output, but more prone to further adjustment (at high it would probably be bad) and if I didn't notice it would run itself dead a lot quicker than expected.
Nitecore EC23: Literally every time I've clipped it into a pocket.
Zebralight SC62: Actually never. Not even one single accidental activation.
FW3A: At least once a day during the first week, and several times per week afterwards but not quite daily
It always happens when I'm clipping it to the pocket. There's a combination of switch is easy to press, switch isn't recessed, and not enough bezel around the switch on the tail, where it's hard for me to push down on the tail without activating.
Olight S1: Like twice in the first week, but then I changed the pocket clip / button alignment as well as where exactly I carry it, and I haven't had issues. I don't trust it 100% yet, but it has a protected cell and low output so there at least isn't danger, just a risk of running it dead and then needing it.
Emisar D4: The first day, the first time I clipped it into a pocket. Fortunately it didn't come on at a high mode, but I haven't carried it without locking it out since.
Nice. I'd probably set mine to 60°C, but it probably wouldn't buy me much more sustainable output.
I just ordered mine yesterday, SST-20 4000K. Now I'm wondering if I shouldn't have gone with the 219C. My EDC at the moment are FW3A XP-L HI 3D that I'm very pleased with and a Rovyvon A8 (UV) 219C that is just awesome. I decided on the SST-20 as I wanted something different. Now seeing all the comments about the SST having Green/Purple issues I'm wondering if I shouldn't have gone with the Nichia instead. Do you suppose I could email them back and get my order changed? Are they that responsive? Am I worried about a non-issue?
Thank you ToyKeeper for your impeccable work both with the build and the review.
I ordered one in Sand, with SS bezel and 18500 tube equipped with 5000K Nichia 219C emitters. I will more than likely swap in Samsung LH351D W6 5000K within an hour of arrival, we’ll see. A lot of dependant variables around here lately…
Appreciate all the info and hard work, very much so. Hat’s off to the both of ya on a job well done.