TLF/BLF/Lumintop FW3A review (18650, 3x XP-L HI cool white)

[mikekoz]

@JasonWW

@mikekoz

Does anybody have a photo of where the o-rings on the inner tube are located, or just tell me? I had one break, and there is a second one near the end of it by the tailcap, but where is the other one installed? Thanks!

Just under the lip on the black metal tube. Install it and the o-ring should drop down into the main battery tube where you can’t see it.

Theres only one small white o-ring, btw.

Thanks! That is where mine is. Somebody else,I think in another thread about this light, said there was two on the tube. The o-ring on mine that broke was a clear one, and that is the one that is on my tube. Maybe it was on the tail cap threads.

[JasonWW]

@mikekoz

@JasonWW

@mikekoz

Does anybody have a photo of where the o-rings on the inner tube are located, or just tell me? I had one break, and there is a second one near the end of it by the tailcap, but where is the other one installed? Thanks!

Just under the lip on the black metal tube. Install it and the o-ring should drop down into the main battery tube where you can’t see it.

Theres only one small white o-ring, btw.

Thanks! That is where mine is. Somebody else,I think in another thread about this light, said there was two on the tube. The o-ring on mine that broke was a clear one, and that is the one that is on my tube. Maybe it was on the tail cap threads.

Yeah, I think they changed from white to clear. Mine did have another skinny o-ring on top of the clip to keep it from rotating. I took mine off and forgot. So there are two, but only one inside the light.

[mikekoz]

I have a feeling the odd problems I am getting (auto ramp down, and sudden brightness increasing) have something to do with this tube. I still have over three weeks to decide if I am going to keep this light. So far it is a bit quirky. In the long run, I am not so sure it will be a reliable light.

[Prophetic219b]

@JasonWW

Probably a quick fix is just to disable the FET. Just unsolder the R1 resistor. It can still ramp up to 900-1000 lumen, but not higher. Then you could probably set the ramp level to a lower point so it maxes out at 500lm or whatever. A double click would turn off the leds, but the brains will still be active. Just don’t double click, or if you do, ramp back down before turning off the light. No programming involved.

Can you please tell me where this resistor r1 is located? I’m ready to take it off, I can solder wires and single diodes, but I don’t know what it is))

[Gunga]

The best and easier thing to do, is just flash Anduril 2 onto the driver and you can disable turbo through software. I’ve done that.

[ToyKeeper]

One of these days, I’m going to have to take apart all my FW[x]A lights and update the firmware. It’s just a pain because they have to be unsoldered and resoldered, so I haven’t done it yet.

It’d be really helpful though, since Anduril 2 has a memory timer and auto-lock timer… both of which I’d use on FW-series lights.

But instead, I’ve mostly been using lights which are easier to update.

[Gunga]

I’ve updated everything to the later Anduril 2 (except an Fwaa with v2.2 driver. Not good there). I’m very pleased.

I’m so thankful for all your work!!

[Prophetic219b]

@Gunga

The best and easier thing to do, is just flash Anduril 2 onto the driver and you can disable turbo through software. I’ve done that.

And how to do it? I’m ready)

[JasonWW]

Flashing a driver is quite complicated and requires special tools. I never got into that myself.
To find the R1 resistor you have to unsolder the led wires and take the driver out. R1 is labeled on the pcb.

Ill try to add this picture showing the pads to the left of the R1 label.

[Gunga]

FW3A Firmware Flashing Guide

Hi everyone, I'm new to BLF, but have been a lurker over at CPF for many years. I recently signed up here after purchasing an FW3A, and then subsequently a D4V2 too - needless to say I've rediscovered the flashlight bug! Whilst my FW3A was in transit, I noticed posts about the muggle mode bug in the FW3A firmware and set about finding out how the firmware is flashed on the FW3A. I couldn't find one single source of information, so I decided to pull together a post in a similar fashion to…

[Prophetic219b]

@JasonWW

Flashing a driver is quite complicated and requires special tools. I never got into that myself.
To find the R1 resistor you have to unsolder the led wires and take the driver out. R1 is labeled on the pcb.

Ill try to add this picture showing the pads to the left of the R1 label.

I understand, I just ordered fw3a, as soon as he comes to me, I’ll deal with it, I also ordered a board immediately from 219b https://aliexpress.ru/item/4001200006782.html?spm=a2g2w.cart.cart_split.55.424c4aa6iixSfW&sku_id=12000025772970368&_ga=2.123491083.1254203438.1678261366-1160284173.1678261366
That’s what I thought, maybe it makes no sense to solder the resistor? After all, if you use a non-high-current 18650, then the diodes on the turbo will not burn out? Previously, they were selling fw3a with 219c, was there the same driver?

[INeedMoreLumens]

@Prophetic219b

Previously, they were selling fw3a with 219c, was there the same driver?

It’s the same driver but different firmware.
In my opinion it would be best to flash the driver with the latest Anduril2 FW3A-219 firmware.
And while you’re at it you can add aux functionality.

[INeedMoreLumens]

@ToyKeeper

One of these days, I’m going to have to take apart all my FWA lights and update the firmware.

Send me your FW3A, and I’ll update them and add Aux for free if you want.

[ToyKeeper]

@INeedMoreLumens

Send me your FW3A, and I’ll update them …

Thanks, but it’s not really necessary. I’ll update them eventually, along with a bunch of other lights waiting for me to change or fix things. It just hasn’t been a priority.