Member Sinner makes similar copper/ Ti hosts
I’ve been drooling over Sinner’s lights for a while, out of my league for the moment. I see that is has a 20 mm reflector so the emitter would fit.
I thought you were after copper or ti only because of the picture but if not this post might help you
Wow thanks a million. Exactly what I was looking for.
Just about any of the tubular 18650 EDC-style lights can be made to work with the 20mm 3-up optics/MCPCBs.
Richard at Mountain Electronics sells a spacer that fills in the empty space when converting the Convoy (& similar) lights using the deep 20x20mm reflector. Lights with short stumpy reflectors need a thinner spacer. Or you can file the top of the pill flat and shorten the head instead to put the driver back in the original location with the much more compact 3XP/TIR combo.
Are you looking for that shape, size, or bare metal? If the latter two, then the Convoy lights would be a good starting point since the tri-optics has already been figured out. Strip the anodization and electroplate with nickel for a corrosion resistant surface. You could go with tri-Nichia219 or the high CRI XP-G2's that Illumination Supply and Mtn Electronics sell.
To do the shortened S6 (other than the triple MCPCB and optic) are there any other parts needed? I’d never thought of doing it like that before, I’ll probably convert mine now of it doesn’t take some special pill. Great work man, love it.
Here’s another question, instead of 3 white XP/n.219’s could you use a red, green and blue XP-E’s and have the beams converge into white light or would it not work like that?
Well, it will be something approximately 'white', but very unpredictable what the actual combined tint will be. Household RGB bulbs (the ones that do the auto color fading) do have a white mode which is just all 3 on at the same time.
On the S6 triple, the threads at the head ID don't go far enough forward for the stock pill to screw in far enough to seat the 3XP/TIR, so the threads on the front part of the pill get machined off down to the right OD to pass into the unthreaded section in the front of the head. I used a 1/8" aluminum disc on top (just cut from 6061 flat plate), and with a step cut into it so it sits down in the pill and rests on the original shelf. It leaves about 2.5 intact threads around the bottom, enough that it still works well enough thermally. Then once you can screw it all together tight, measure the difference between the depth from the rear of the head to the rear of the pill, and the length of the male threads on the tube, subtract the difference and that's how much you need to chop off the rear of the head. Then just machine out the threads to the right ID to seal up with the o-ring, and add a little chamfer so it goes together smooth and doesn't tear up the o-ring.
Note that you cannot do it without that little bit of spacer added by the Al disc (unless you figure out a way to cut the head ID threads deeper, it's a nonstandard thread so there's no tap that'll do it, that leaves you with using a lathe and picking up the existing thread, and good luck with that). If you just cut the top of the pill flat you'll end up having to take off ALL the threads on the pill OD for it to go far enough into the head to seat the TIR against the bezel. I did that on one of my early ones, in a S2 which has an even smaller threaded section on the ID, I made a new pill from scratch out of Al bar stock and sized it to be a moderately tight press fit, no threads. It can still be disassembled, it's just not much fun doing it.
Instead of cutting the head short and messing with threads wouldn’t it be easier to fill the space between the pill in its original position with an unthreadead metal spacer which acts as a heatsink and support for the tri-leds? The spacer could be a hair smaller diameter than the head so it would slide in nicely.
I’m having difficulties because the chinese sites very rarely post exact dimensions of pill/head/lens/tube/whatever. If you want to modify something you just have to buy and try. I’m a new member here and I feel there is so much to learn, that’s why I was asking the more experienced fellow budgeteers.
Now we’re cookin’ 
off topic: Wow it’s 3.18 AM at your end.
Yes you can use a spacer but it doesn't improve performance, the limiting factor in a small light is always going to be the surface area of the outside of the light which is the only way for the heat ultimately to leave the light, into the atmosphere. Using a spacer just means you're carrying around a bigger, heavier light than what's needed.
Just about all the single 18650, tubular (meaning, same size down the whole length from head to tail) lights are built around 20mm +/-0.5mm lenses & reflectors. The Carclo 3-up TIRs and the copper 3XP boards are 20mm. Pick the host you like most and build it.
Noctigon 20mm copper triple XPG/XPE/XTE coming soon!
Triple XPG2/Nichia+copper ConvoyS6/X-Power/Xiaozhi/D4 shorties
Solarforce Z1 - 1600 lumens on your keychain
That last one is more involved, but even cutting the parts down to ~17mm is possible.
A single 16340 tri-Nichia setup would be my goal but there seems to be a lack of decent hosts.
16340 lights are all going to be based on 17-18mm lens/reflector. Far from impossible, but if you're already complaining that shortening the head of a 18650 light is too much work, well...
I’m not complaining, but access to machining equipment is difficult for me now.
Nothing is too much work if you think it is worth it.
Fill it with solder.
The Uniquefire UF-K21 is a 16340 light with a bit wider reflector, it has been modded to a triple by ohaya a while back:
(I still want to copy that mod :-) )
@ CC, when you cut them down like that do you use a glass lens in front of the optic? I like to use glass cause it protects the optic from getting scratched up, would doing so make it so you could turn ~1mm (thickness of lens) less off the pill threads?
If the glass lens is touching the front face of the TIR it will affect the beam pattern. If you can leave an air gap between them (like the raised lip of the white plastic holder on the 20mm 10* single TIR, you know?) then it doesn't screw up the beam, but it doubles the optical losses each time the light passes a barrier - front face of the TIR is one barrier, rear face of the glass is another, and front face of the glass is a third barrier... don't do it just to protect the TIR. Sometimes it's necessary (like in the Roche F6, the way the front bezel o-ring seals there's just no other option than to re-use the glass lens) but avoid whenever possible.