I don't think the driver for the first assembled light is working right, it won't do more than 3.85-3.9A no matter what cell I throw at it. At first I used the board with the Nichias, figured the low current might be their fault (plus the dimness was just depressing), so I used the only other 3XP I have right now which has XPG2 1As on it, and got the same numbers. If it can't be fixed by re-soldering the 4 stacked chips I don't think it will be too much of an inconvenience...
I finally got a usable amount of light out of the Nichias...
...with SIXTEEN 7135s, and it requires a INR 20R. 4.95A at the tail. Maybe I'm fooling myself but they don't seem as icky-brown when driven hard. But is that really a practical combo? It gets rather warm at that amperage...
Anybody want to play 'guess that LED/tint'?
:D
When are ya buildin mine? EH??
-Jamie M.
5B, Nichia, 4C, 3D, 1A?
Hey man, go talk to Singapore Post, it's their fault... :_(
Ordered on 10/28, I could probably order another batch of the same stuff from RMM and it'd get here sooner.
#2 & 5 correct!
#1 at the left is a bit of an unknown. PN is XTEAWT-00-0000-00000LCE7, I was able to find it's Q4 bin & 3000k, but not the actual tint.
I really want a Nichia triple but am concerned about light loss.
Comfy, how much light loss are you guestimating from the triple optics not being fully exposed?
Any chance for a head on shot of the front end? I want to see how much optic is blocked by front end.
It’s hard to tell from the angled shots as some optics look more blocked than others.
How many lumens otf from the triple Nichia at 3A?
When you say ‘icky brown’ I’m confused as the one sample of Nichia 219 I have is not icky brown.
The spectrum of tint I’ve heard described about the 219 ranges from yellowish tint to rose tint.
The one I have I would describe as slightly yellow tint but prefer rose tinted 219.
I have some samples of 119 that are my favorite tint.
Could you make a triple with Nichia 119? :bigsmile:
Thanks and great job as always!!
slightly on a tangent (lovely lights by the way!), but I’m really curious about the DIP switches. I’m guessing they’re used for setting modes, which is a really cool idea. Any details or do I need a slap and reminder to read the rest of the thread? 
I have build a Nichia 219 triple in a Convoy S5 host (it also blocks some of the light coming from the TIR) , with a qlite driver. It has a conventional aluminium board, but at 1A/led that should not differ too much from a copper one. Tailcap reading is 3,0 A, and it puts out 450 lumen OTF.
E7 is a tint area, so its anything from 7A1 to 7D4.
Nichia always seems a little purple.. but what are #3 and #4 then?
3d, 3c maybe? Or dedomed 1A?
Thanks! That’s actually pretty decent, 150 lumens per led @1A otf from the 219 seems normal so minimal loss.
The ID of the bezel hasn't been opened at all from stock on the S6, on the S2 and TR-801s it has been (to a quite extreme amount on the 801s), but there's no difference in the beam/spot pattern so it probably makes little if any difference. Leaving the anodizing intact is probably worth any minor effects to the light output.
At lower drive currents (around 3.85A at the tail) the Nichias were still easily identifiable as Nichias even after a few hours use - normally my eye adjusts in that time to see whatever light is coming out as 'normal' and memory of the tint differences fade away. At higher currents they start to look/work like I'm used to, I've used nothing but the Nichia version for most of the past 2 days and it no longer looks funny, it just looks like light. But I don't know if it's practical at that kind of current, it doesn't last very long with only 2000mAh cells and at ~5A.
Yes, #3 is 3D, #4 is 1A de-domed.
One of the three 1As went a bit blue, it's only visible in some of the photos and not by eye. No damage to the phosphor that I can see even with magnification, or through a welding lens (missing phosphor spots usually shows up really clearly through the #10 lens, I don't see any). So I don't know. The camera can't be inventing colors that aren't there, but some of these pics (lights on low mode, shining across white paper) with the higher shutter speeds up around 1/200 show it clearly, while the pics with the shutter around 1/60~80 it's not really visible.
I'm still waiting on the 2B XPG2s (my personal favorites) and a pile of bare 3XP boards from IOS, it's approaching 30 days since they shipped...
Drivers are using DrJones' NLITE, which still use the stars. SW1 enables/disables moonlight, SW2 reverses the mode order, SW3 enables/disables memory. And they work in any combination and not sequentially like with standard Nanjg FW. So SW1 & SW3 ON, you get moon-low-mid-high, always starts on moonlight. SW2 only, high-mid-low w/memory. SW2 & SW3, H-M-L, always starts on high.
It works on other Nanjg FW too but they use the stars different, SW2 overrides SW1, SW3 overrides SW1&2.
Clip location is a bit odd maybe, but it does several things. With the clip all the way at the tail I find they are a little TOO hidden in my pocket to get hold of easily, this makes that much easier. Also on the same side as the lanyard holes - when the holes & the clip are on opposite sides, and you use a lanyard, it doesn't always sit right in your pocket. And finally, the screws intersect the brass switch retainer and are just long enough to act as setscrews, it's impossible to unscrew the retainer unless the clip screws are removed/loosened first. So it will never come loose on its own from removing/installing the tailcap.
14mm boot in the 16mm hole, with a (handmade!) plastic bushing that both aligns the boot and is just enough of a spacer that tailstanding works reliably. The original awful green boot is too flimsy, and as the light heats up the boot bulges out and makes the tailstanding a bit wobbly. That's fixed now. And is also no longer that awful GITD-green.
Ok, at least I know what currents to expect hehe. I guess it does not stay long around 5A anyway.
Nichias are not brow, sometimes yellowish, sometimes more reddish but usually “lack” a little blue since they are neutral tinted and not cold tinted. Still pretty impressive colors.
Something Warm white, Nichia 219 B10 4500K, XP-G2 3C, XP-G2 2B, XP-G2 1A.
Yes, and the heat is probably quite high as well. Maybe a nice winter light but I don’t expect to be able to use the high mode for long on this one.
Yeah I had the same issue, my first order of Noctigons arrived today after 40days. While an order placed 2 weeks later, an XP-G2 R4 5A4 arrived day earlier.
The post is unpredictable. Or maybe they are delaying Noctigons on purpose! 
2Bs are still discounted, although only the single version, not triples.
Guess they have too many or nobody wants them, I would take a 3C if price was the same. Oh I see… now they have discounted 3Cs as well, bummer might have taken it instead of the 5A4 probably, just not at $7.45, thanks no.
Anyway I already have way too many emitters.
Why do you like the 2Bs?
High output, not yellowish I suppose?
Still washed out though I would say.
Well, I uh... I don't know anything about 3XP boards being in short supply... erm...
<cough> :shy:
Why do I like 2Bs? I dunno, why do I like jalapenos but not bell peppers? It is a mystery.
edit: Hey, what happened to our already slim selection of smileys? :( - edit the 2nd: derp, I'm going blind, disregard!
You guys love emptying store inventories, don’t you? 
comfychair: you run a shop or where do you find a use for so many flashlights? :bigsmile: