Definitely Raw Aluminum!
How remove anodising: 
Raw aluminum and a 4000K-5000K CCT would be awesome. 
The WildTrail lights were clear-anodized…that’s why they had contact issues with a batch or two. They didn’t think to machine the contact surface clean after anodizing, and since it looked like bare metal…oops…shipped ’em out with unintended isolation where pixies needed to flow. Bit of scuffing up fixed the problem. I kinda thought all of the “silver” aluminum bodies were clear-anodized. It wouldn’t make much sense, for a few reasons, to actually put out a raw/bare aluminum host…but it also wouldn’t be the worst thing since aluminum in all grades will quickly “rust” and create a self-protecting barrier. In a natural or “al-clad” state like that it can get an uneven look with what may appear to be blotches or water drops or just areas of discoloration…a little bit like copper or brass that way but maybe less noticeable. True when highly polished, too, unless you really give it love often or clearcloat it. The additional surface hardness that anodizing imparts is not insignificant, so a raw metal will show wear and damage much, much easier, much faster. Surface treatment with abrasives, wire wheels, etc. can give a completely different look to the “color”/shine of clear-anodizing just through changes in light refraction, and even taking the raw metal to the chem tanks with less preparation can give a neat look albeit with likely less even protection. I think that depends on the particular anodization method, too…have to ask an expert there. So there are options for a raw look while retaining good protection. And in the end it comes down to whether the factory providing the service is willing to do what you ask, but it seems like anodizing options in China have really improved and come a long way in both quality and creativity.
[quote=iamlucky13]
If this light has an internal signal tube, I think silver anodizing would be better. If both the signal tube and the body are anodized, there is protection against shorting the signal tube to the body on both sides. If the body is raw aluminum, a scratch in the signal tube could hypothetically cause unintended behavior.
I’ll defer to experience others may have whether this should be a deciding factor, but I think it should be considered for a light of this type.
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Yes, I forget the problem about conduction and short circuits
If people want raw nekkid Al without any coating, hey, I’m not gonna stop anyone, but just my 2¢ is that nekkid Al is relatively fragile, soft metal that “flows”.
I had a “cigar tube” that started out polished to a mirror finish, but after just a little while carrying it in my pocket with keys, coins, etc., it started growing little nicks and scratches all over. After a while, it just got nasty looking, so I stopped caring how it looked.
Just saying… Clear ano would at least protect/harden the top layer and make it more resistant to looking like it spent a while in a rock tumbler.
People who like and/or want that “well-used” look, carry on.
Oh… anyone wants a real unique look, let’s go with that multicolored PVD. 
I got a few knives with that finish, and they’re cute.
Oh, there was a set of flashlights some mfr put out, eerie names like “Smelly Wife”, etc., and one of them was that PVD multicolor.
Anyone remember them?
Also, anyone can take their anodized aluminum light and just immerse it in a cup of Greased Lightning from their local hardware store for a few hours. Result: all the anodizing is gone!
And do this mod while the light is assembled (after checking the o-rings and removing the battery of course), then only the anodizing on the outside of the light should be gone. Anodizing inside the light should still be intact.
Found ’em:
For colors, I would be into:
- grass green
- dark/burned orange (but not brown), more like the Convoy s2+ /C8+ orange
- a very neutral gray, like rocks
- limestone gravel camouflage: different shades of light and medium gray.
I like orange aux-lights, it would look good in any of these colors.
So… any deliveries?
I don’t have one yet, but user zumlin on Reddit’s r/flashlight put up a few posts today with teardown info. I was happy to read that the ts10 apparently has reflashing pads.
I’m waiting for zumlin to report if E21A works with TS10. Very excited that it has the flashing pad!
Maybe they (or Sofirn) will start selling pre built flashers with 3-pin out. That way we can fix their mistakes like the aux lights being constantly on because they used the wrong firmware.
Zumlin also measured the current draw with the main LED’s off, on a TS10 with orange aux LED’s (runtimes estimated by me, based on 1000mAh battery):
I don’t have a TS10, so I can’t give an opinion whether the brightness of the aux LED’s is a good level. However, just considering the current draw with the aux LED’s on, it seems a little high to me. Perhaps it would be prudent to use a resistor for the aux LED’s 2-4 times the value that was used in the first batch. It will mainly affect the high mode. The low mode current draw and brightness is primarily affected by the microcontroller’s internal resistor.
With that said, different aux LED colors have different forward voltages. Maybe the current resistor value was good for blue, but not as good for orange or red.
It’s the same problem with the TS21 and that are is a problem that can’t be fixed because of the switch. Hopefully this isn’t the case here. There’s no point to aux lights if they whip through batteries.
The current of the aux LED can be adjusted. we just thought it looks need brighter on high, so the current is adjusted relatively large.
If you want it to be less bright in the high-brightness gear, the current can be adjusted down.
Brighter looks prettier？
I think the aux current draw is fine. Use low if you want an always-on locator beacon. Use high if you want to illuminate your surroundings.
With two possible levels, this is a good compromise.
I agree with this mindset. This is exactly what I do with my Emisar, Noctigon, and FireFlies lights. High aux If I want them as literal auxiliary lighting at night, and low auxiliaries level (which is what I use on 90% of my lights 90% of the time) for a locater at night.
gotta have your cake and eat it too! Can't have that pretty, bright auxiliary light without some drain. And yea that reported drain is pretty darn high (on aux high mode), but changing resistor values for different color auxiliary LEDs is not a reasonable expectation of the manufacturer in my opinion. They could just do a lower value, and then half the customers would be dissatisfied that they aux are too low. So it's a lose-lose situation for Wurkkos. But I'm happy with the results. Well, I think I will be . I have seen the light in person yet lol.
this is a great tip! I've never de-anodized a light. But I like the method you talk about. Keeping it together so interior anodizing is intact :))