Has anyone tried a clear coat on the TS10 MAO yet? Although clear coating isn’t very hard, since it fills porous surfaces it might help sort of hold the MAO layer together. Or my speculation might be off base.
On the other hand, it will almost certainly affect the feel in hand that I know some people really like.
I wouldn’t. It’s enough of an insulator to impede heat dissipation and that’s important, particularly on this light. If you did, I’d pick a rattle can of clear automotive wheel lacquer or comparable. Steer clear of most finishes and woodworking clears, imho. Two-part catalyzed clear finishes can be really durable as well but many are not quite as “clear.” The lacquer finishes are easy to recoat/repair or to strip if you want. But again…heat dissipation.
Received mine (too bad I ordered it with orange aux a day before the promo)
a very very beautiful light!
94 gram copper instead of 51 gram allu version
Do these units have the latest updated firmware version (i.e. aux LVP, aux off when main LED’s on, lower moonlight output)? And, how long does the promotion run?
try this:
remove battery, tighten head, loosen, tighten, loosen, then tight again… a few times… my thought is to seat and get good contact of the inner and outer tubes, into the head
fwiw, the switch itself is a very simple affair… the issue is probably not the switch. I expect it is just poor contact from the inner tube end, to the pill.
if that tight twisting fails,
It might be poor contact at the tailcap instead.
one step at a time… the tailcap is glued shut because there is no retaining ring. If tailcap is removed, switch falls out.
btw, at 3.7v a battery is almost half empty. Youre not hurting anything by testing the light at that voltage, but I suggest you charge the batteries before any prolonged use.
Here is a photo of the tail, disassembled:
.
feel free to private message me if you like. I will be happy to help you figure out how to remove the tailcap, if it comes to that.
first, let us know if the twisting exercise solves the problem.