If I am not mistaken, it could be as simple as a “Malkoff” drop-in. I believe Malkoff still makes LED drop-ins for the Maglite Incan D lights.
Otherwise:
A Heat Sink
A Driver
Modifying the stock switch by cutting the tower off, etc.
Yes, it’s some work.
One reason why I did a Nichia and kept the Alkalines. As is, it’s only pulling 500ma at the tail cap, with Alkalines.
Almost 3 volts, but only 500-600ma, so it shouldn’t get hot too fast. The copper does touch against the body and the C ring. but it’s minimal, so it’s not really good heat transfer once the copper gets hot.
If I had a lathe, I would have made a one piece switch housing/tower out of Aluminum and it would be a much better heat sink.
Thanks for explaining the mule thing to me…total flood does have uses up close/inside.I’m not a member of CPF and really don’t want to be either, this forum fits me better.As for a maglight incd. to led conversion, Ecig, the Malkoff droppins are very easy to install and work well. I have a mag 2c with the older xp-g emmiter…damn good thrower w/decent output. I believe there is even an XM-L droppin now!? I may do one of these to a 3D mag powered by Tenergy Nimh ‘D’s. Cause’ you know…all I need is just one more flashlight and then I’m done!
I’m ignoring that 
I do not know what I will do, once the cool weather hits. I might not do mules at all, I was just voicing a thought, nothing firm yet, so no dibs.
I am seriously leaning towards giving the ebay way, a try this year and see what happens. (with BLF being the first place to post any upcoming sales of course).
You can search CPF any time without being a member using “your search term” and add this “site:www.candlepowerforums.com” Just Like this: mule site:www.candlepowerforums.com
CPF has a lot of helpful information, that can be used when trying to find answers and you don’t have to be a member or participate.
Thanks again Old-lumens….I didn’t know that.That would probably be more specific than google.Try Googleing o-ring lube and see where you end up! In scaru’s threesome I think!
That is such nice work, looks to me like NOT a failure but ALMOST there! If the threads on the shoulder screw are longer than the thickness of the copper, could you thicken the wall with a copper or brass sleeve or even a nut to add lateral strength?
I think the best way is to make either a solid aluminum tower or a solid copper tower, with a steel sleeve for the bolt. It does have very shallow threads and I would like to have one with more thread, but as is, the steel would probably be the only thing that works. I have thought of using the original steel sleeve, but of course, it is a different OD/ID than any pipe sizes, so making a matching part for it, would take a lathe.
At this point, it’s beyond anything I can do. I will simply hold it for fall and turn it into a nice 1D with the Nichia on a regular heat sink, with an aluminum reflector.
The skill and craftmanship you put into this light it's a shame such a small part failed. The beam shots looked terrific. Good effort though.
The build quality you’re achieving with non-machine tools is extremely impressive. I’d appreciate some clarification of how the copper tower works with the cam system.
The bearing-screw broke out of the thread because the force exerted by the reflector/cam system overcame the threads anchoring the screw. The copper the tower is made of has considerably higher ductility than the stock steel; theoretically you can reduce the spring tension supporting the pill so copper threads can support the screw.
Yes, the copper wall was only about .040” thich, as the rest inside was copper shot and solder, so not much there to hold on to. It’s the spring pressure giving resistance, that really causes there to be any force. + the fact that I did not have the “proper tap”, but I only used the 3mm I had and while it was a tight fit, I am sure it wasn’t the correct thread for the job. I wasn’t going to go find a different tap for it, so I took my chances.
I really have to say that it was just a whim, as I don’t really see any benefit of having a tower for a led. Usually there is just one sweet spot in a reflector, where the led gives a good beam, not several sweet spots. I think the stock tower in a led maglite is useless. I was just trying to see if I could do it, not that I really wanted to do it, LOL. Kind of like climbing a mountain I guess.
I like the analogy. I wish I had that kind of patience with hand tools. It’s a very cool piece of work to see-very interesting indeed!
That copper tower is just too beautiful :heart_eyes:
I still bet you could’ve ironed out that bearing screw issue with a steel post soldered into the copper ‘piston’ thing.
Something at work reminded me of how cool your old build threads are. I still troll BLF daily…but it’s nothing like the old times. You and others used to post build threads like this on the reg. If your build pics ever go down I’ll be one sad camper. I wonder if it’d be possible to compile your build threads into one PDF file :question: .