Ultimate LED Bulbs - Ultra High CRI - The Honorable Quest

That depends on the bin you get. Some manufacturers have been better then others green wise with better bins. The 4000K and 3500K 219B also biase pretty warm if I remember to. I’d kill for some E21A multi-emitter lights. Optisolis is pretty good, but it’s limited current wise, and the E21A has good tint and better CCT flexibility.

Anybody have any experience with Ketra’s A20 and PAR36 bulbs? They have a fully-adjustable CCT from 1400k to 10000k @ >90 CRI. CCT is maintained within one Macadam ellipse (centered on the black body locus?) as LEDs age using a control loop that monitors output.

High CRI RA95 E27 7W COB LED Bulb

I picked up 3 of the 5000K versions, really nice tint and color rendition.

I forgot to mention California’s title 24 lighting requirement makes finding cheap good lights easier. It requires min 80 r9 but the cheap ones like Phillips are usually max 3000k. Took like 2 years for that law to dent the scammy high cri market……of course lobbyists complained…

That’s strict. I like it :smiley:

I now have a table of light bulbs with the corresponding CRI Grade. I have a lot of data from my spectrometer, but so far the only LED technology to earn an A is the SunLike! Please note the bulbs with a * were not tested by me (like the SunLike).
Help me add to the table by sending me links to high CRI bulbs!

I discovered Sylvania A19 LED bulbs, 3000K. $1.50 at dollar store. They look great, no PWM, and not even warm to the touch.

They seem to have a CRI of 80 and nothing more published. That’s a bad sign.

I really want to make a batch of optisolis bulbs (spot type 45deg) for all around my house. 120VAC

What bulb can fit the nichia optisolis VS35SP36?

What is the general maximum wattage a standard bulb can withstand from LEDs also accounting for the driver?

The best case scenario is if the bulb already outputs at 1S or 3S which the VS35SP36 can change to. And then, I just pull out the original LEDs and place the mcpcb on top.

I have never modded a bulb before so I assume they glue them very well for safety. I don’t mind cutting and regluing or things similar to this.

Yea this seems like a good option to me too. But I haven’t sacrificed one of everything yet to find a good host.

If you’re talking a standard, smooth a19 or a21 shape with a plastic or glass cover then likely 7-10 watts max, about like a flashlight. Older more expensive wavy bases can probably dissipate more heat, but you don’t see those any more. Those big corn shape ones might do a little more but since it’s ultimately going to sink at the base where your power circuitry is, I wouldn’t bet any money unless you’ve got a fan pointed at it. Power circuitry is where most of my lights have failed excluding some crappy chinese sticks (leds and pcb literally burned first on that)

I’m picking up this but don’t have any testing gear, but I can already predict the disappointment because I seriously doubt it can dissipate the heat… 37.62€ 41% OFF|Hohe CRI Ra 95 + E27 Led lampen Mais Lampe 40W AC85 265V Ultra Helle 5500K Tageslicht Weiß 4000LM für Fotografie Video Studio|LED-Birnen & Röhren| - AliExpress
On the other hand since it supports a wider power input maybe it will survive this crazy 125v “green” utility power that kills everything except incandescents around here…Landlord said all the common LED makers told him they will not warranty unless he installed power conditioning…

I've taken the opportunity of some 11.11 free time to update and migrate our original old "High CRI table".

It is now a Google Doc, easily readable and shareable online.

It contains all the numbers and info we have shared here so far, including direct links to the various tests for references. Doing that I realised there was an error with the "Qf" formula, now corrected. Hope you all will enjoy it, and that it will ease readability.

As always, please feel free to make suggestions or corrections.

I've updated it to be up to date of this topic, feel also free to point me any missing info.

May I suggest that instead of having two topics on BLF for a common subject, we unit our energy and efforts towards one community goal? As proposed and already started in this topic, I'm pleased to discuss formula/scale, bulbs, or any other matter.

plastic body :person_facepalming:

will go to trash after some months

Yeah… the only leds that will last long will have the fancy finned aluminum heatsink like Sunlike… the high price might make you balk but considering the price of a heatsink like that + the leds you suddenly aren’t getting such a bad deal.

I have an itching suspicion it’s not worth using anything other than Sunlike even ignoring that crazy high cri unless you’re using disposable $2- bulbs…my halogen bulbs always outlast led and power is cheap here >_<

In Overview - Specifications it says 7. Material: Aluminum Case. In the Specifications tab: Body Material: Aluminum. I'm not sure about the validity of the overview data but the specifications pretty much nails it down with regards to filing a dispute.

So, if the bulbs are @#$% VaKo will easily get his money back.

it is not sarcasm?

s. halogen bulbs from GE works exactly 2000 hours

Alas no, it is aluminium, and gets quite warm after extended use. It also stops being warm fairly quickly after you turn it off leading one to assume it is indeed doing heatsinky things.

if you meant my halogen comment no, all the LEDs I’ve had died pretty fast and with little use (almost all 1600 lumen), the power here fluctuates from 115-125v. can your bulbs tolerate the higher voltage spikes from hydro/wind power? Cree, phillips, etc told landlord to install power conditioning…

I’ve never had a PC power supply, monitor, tv etc die from this dirty utility’s power, but I’ve had a few UPS die and lots and lots of LEDs…the leds mostly looked like something was burned.

It’s not just me either, nearly any given LED on amazon etc has reviewers saying they die fast…

led drivers, what I use, works with 85-277v. For 110v I use twice bigger reusable fuse.

Just try to read (with translator) this why ordinary led bulbs die so fast