WorldWide (5:money_mouth_face:, except Zimbabwe (Rhodesia)
You donāt know to what long term operational tolerances the engineers had in mind. You have some general idea of some of the limitations of some of the hardware. Also, can you confirm what fixtures all those people were using those failed bulbs in? When push comes to shove, a reputable manufacturer will stand behind their product. but a small company that went out of existence wonāt. Buying from a small startup company that claims some few great things large scale is not the wisest decision. Large scale street light installations are a good example of this with cities frequently choosing the big manufacturers like Cree, GE, and Leotek. They donāt want to end up down the road with a bunch of failing lights, like Berkley or Detroit, and not have something to fall back onto. Good luck claiming a mass warranty failure from bankrupt/closed/merger-ed company! Not to derail this thread since these sun-likes look really good.
Nope. They were not Hyperikons.
Glare is very much an issue. Itās why we have things like minimum and sometimes maxmimum recommended light levels and daylighting methods that reduce the sunās glare through skylights with things recessing and panelization.
As far as the durability is concerned, the lifespan of the lights are most likely dependent on the electrolytic capacitors on the driver circuits. LED failed visibly flickering usually caused by capacitor failures.
So, make sure that wherever you sourced the driver from, the capacitors must be of high-quality with high hour-rating and temperature. The driver compartment of the LED light is usually toasty.
That's terrific, thanks for this documentation!
Light quality-wise, in order to ease separation of bulbs, I wish to insist a bit more on R9 and R12: both sides of the Achille's heel for many high CRI claiming lights. To achieve that I'm proposing the following tweak to the current Qf formula :
Qf = [(Ra *1)+(R9*3)+(R12*3)+(Rf*3)] / 10 >> Qf = [(Ra *1)+(R9*3)+(R12*3)+(Rf*2)] / 9
That way :
- There is a bit more progressivity: "R9 = R12 > Rf > Ra"
- Ra is a third of the R9 and R12 importance
- The recent Rf is two times more important than the older Ra
What do you think?
Is there any practical difference between korean/china sunlike leds aside from china being cheaper and higher cri? Likeā¦ is the mtbf double on korean ones???
Does not ship to USA, California due to some California regulations based on the response I got from them. I wanted to purchase a few bulbs from them to test and then a set to put in my house if it is good.
Is there any alternatives?
I went on sunlikelamp.com, But the site is difficult to understand, each LED has a chart of 7 tests with varying R9 values. I donāt know what matches to what. Anyone have experience from them? I want to test their bulbs. They also do not show the duv/tint value I believe. I definitely want something below BBL, or a tiny bit rosy.
I just ordered a bulb from him. The website could definitely use some updating. The charts are labelled with the LED so you can figure out which one matches the model # of the option you selected.
I live in California and have bought from waveformlighting before. You can see test results in my earlier link.
I was in check out and was blocked from shipping. Could you try again to see if it was a new policy waveformlighting added?
Itās a little naughty, but you might be able to bypass the restriction by choosing āNevadaā as the state, then adding the letters āCAā to your town name. The website should be none the wiser, and the delivery company will figure it out.
I entered my address and it gave me shipping options. I suggest you send them an email. Also try using another browser.
I sent them an email and this was the response:
I guess Iāll try some round about methods.
SAW (Korean) - its TRI-R (3-R) technology. It is with violet crystals only.
SOL (China) - it is with ~4 types of crystals.
I think that 3-R is more durable, and if violet peack will appear after years and years of uses, it will be ok (SORAA, yuji, samsung master color - all of them have violet peack)
there is tests with duv for SAW (TRI-R) 5000k and 4000k from 2018
I have 2 buyers from this forum already. 6w 4000k SOL and 9w 3000k SAW, may be they will publikate tests
Also I sended 10xss with 4 types of SOLs to test to maukka
I can't vouch for the shipping carrier (...as I don't know them), but I totally vouch for maukka completing the test once the bulb arrived, in the coming days/weeks.
And that's why, currently in our "Light Bulb table", your SunLike bulbs are referred as "Test to come".
PS: so far, based on your manufacturer tests you are #1 of this table. Congrats Adam!
[quote=fneuf]
add 2700k to CCT of Sunlike10X please
also your tabble in .png is 382kb
you can compress it to 295kb by optipng to 295kb
and additional to ~280kb with PNGoutWIN after optipng (it is slow)
ps. it is not manufacturer test, it is independed test by lampters.ru =)
Also my lampmanās assistant have spectrometr UPRtek and he have the same results
Done.
Clever remark, it has been performed by lamptest.ru . But I remembered when I first discover your website (and then contacted you), I tried to found back their tests of your products on their own website and I couldn't find them back there (for instance, you do not seem to appear in their manufacturer list). Do you know why?
I always think of optimising PNG and JPG for the website I'm managing, but I don't have the same reflex when I just share images online. After tests a while back I settled to use "compressor.io" (391>218kb) and "tinypng" (391>213kb), depending from cases. I'll have to give PNGoutWIN/optiPNG duo a try.
because I do not pay to him =)
I deleted .ru from tests, beuse I can not find on his web-site tests of my lamps easy. Some month ago it was on the main page.
there is tests of:
my first sunlike TRI-R bulbs from jan.2018
really thanks to him for all of this tests, because I still do ot have spectrometr =(
compressor.io when ālosslessā just used optipng - it is free (OS) and tiny
but you can use optipng by yourself
also you can compress some better (0-10%) if you will use after optipng pngOUTwin (not free and really slow)
tinypng.com is not lossless!
and I additional compressed it by pngOUTwin =)
it convert your png file from 24-bit to 8-bit.
you can do it in the paint.net also (free - OS)
R5 line and spectrum alsoā¦ so much artefacts in 8-bit
