Also something else that looks superb for Canadians:
Aha, you failed to mention that you do not want kerosine light sources, so here is a high CRI entry: an Aladdin no#23 (with Lox-On mantle) on full power:
CCT=2720K, duv=+0.0027, CRI=97.9, R9=94, R12=94, Rf=96.8, Rg=97.6
Curious, +0.0027 Duv. Would you call that green yellow?
Wonderful, as I understand, yttirium derived mantles looked rather green. Thorium derived mantle lights improved the color removing some of the green. These lights are , nonetheless, adored by those that live near themāBerlin residents. Berlin still uses 30,000 gas mantle lights in its streets. Here are some sample pictures. The 9-11 mantle lights throw around quite a bit of light, rivaling some electrical lighting systems. The 4 mantle lights look good for residential, you donāt want to light up peoplesā homes like a baseball park.
As I also understand, the Coleman dual mantle lanterns also produce some 850 lumens of warm white light, even outperforming the BLF LT1!
It does look rather yellow indeed, nothing of the rosiness that people here prefer. If this type of lighting ever takes off you can recognise BLF folks by a minus-green chimney 
This might be of interest to some. Not the first time the 500W Yuji is tested though.
If someone want LED with high cri without violet. For example, I am going to do lamp for nail extsntion
I will get more deteiled result tomorrow. I think it is almost CRI97. It is the same manufacturer what produce SOLs ā SmartEcoLightning
Ahah! Well done, kinda got me there. Well, well, well what mention should I add to disqualify those solutions?
- I do not want to become radioactive?
- I want lights to be able to run from sustainable energy sources?
- "No Amish tech"?
Something that's bothering me since the start. I thought that SOL and SAW were both produced by SSC, but manufactured in different countries. But now I'm understanding that:
- SAW are made by Seoul SemiConductor / Toshiba (Korea/Japan) : violet crystal tech
- SOL are made by SmartEco Lighting (China) : blue & violet crystal tech
Is it right?
Yes. SOL is from China. It is not TRI-R technologies
And is there any relation between SSC and Smart Eco Lighting companies ?
I do not know
Just found an interesting high-level article, speaking about SOL and SAW differences, and doing that using some of Adam's product offering.
PS : by the way Adam, are you Ukrainian or Belarusian ?
Bought a Lidl Livarno Lux LED E27 smart bulb. Strong do not buy from me.
-Warm white with a bad yellow tint (2700K, duv +0.0048)
-CRI Ra 83, R9 15, R12 71
-TM-30-18 Rf 88, Rg 94
-RGB modes emit an audible whine
-RGB modes have a very low output, no chance to make a mood lighting unless you buy 10 of these
-PWM is not visible on any mode
-Remote and smartphone bluetooth app work fine, but the colors on the remote donāt all really reflect what the output will be
-About 10x range in the dimming with fine steps
-Power draw 1.2-8.3W on white with a power factor of 0.48-0.59
-Power draw 0.9W on RGB with a power factor of 0.40-0.45
-Standby power is 0.5 watts
This SOL/SAW thing is confusing. Tell me if this is right or not:
SAW = Original by āSeoul Semiconductorā (Sunlike product line) in Korea
SOL = Better/cheaper by āSmart Eco Lightningā in China
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232096487.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3da73c004HJJE9&mp=1 has come in. Box was beat up, marked marswell and diy led u home.
The color seems very accurate, just looking by eye especially at my skin, unfortunately no proper testing gear. Since itās bright, it doesnāt look painfully blue - as is usually the case with other low intensity low cri high cct bulbs. A couple halogen bulbs evens out the CCT nicely (canāt use LEDs in 3 of the main fixtures and landlord wonāt do a thing about it).
The actual base is plastic with air holes at the bottom. The LED aluminum mounts are only partially enclosed just enough to protect the LEDs, so there is room for a lot of air flow. Despite my original hesitance, I think this can more or less handle the 40 watts, and might even run cooler than all the 1600 lumen mainstream bulbs that have died on meā¦
What really needs to be known and I donāt feel like testing: whatās inside for the driver? I doubt a made in china bulb will have long lasting 130C rated japanese caps sadlyā¦
I will update with pics after it has been on for a few hours to test heatā¦from what Iāve seen so far the heat is coming from the upper part where LEDs are lined up rather than the driver.
Iām pretty impressed and tempted to buy a few moreā¦itās REALLY HUGE, though, it pokes out way above the diffuser on my lamp, and would require removal of typical household glass cones or covers.
EDIT: Photos and CRI results https://photos.app.goo.gl/e51uJQ1jXSRyC62N6
EDIT2 5/4/2020:
I had to repload the CRI resultā¦ the image was missing, implying they may have DMCAād it, but never got a notice from googleā¦ I would not buy from that aliexpress store with the way they bully, the only way that image went missing is they reported it.
They sent me ātestsā with numbers very different from my old and outdated calibration tool (which only has a problem with too much green) on aliexpressā¦. (and of course, it was only ātested for 2 monthsā)
DIY led uhome if you are reading this it never pays to be a bully!
regarding the heat commentā¦ it creaks when turned on, this implies that it is heating rapidly. so clearly there may be an issue, I have no way to measure the temperature.
You can say it! 
The above figures in the picture seem to be 10x what they should, doesn't it?
25.4x
Itās in mm.
Photos added to original post.
Think that a second time Joshk, that bulb cannot measure 28.74mm wide, just the e27 base measures ā 27mm.
It is 2.874" wide and 9.252" long:
O:)