:bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile:
Nice. Custom turbo.
It's quite possible and would be easy to do.
Well, right now I have a problem. I added some chips, and now I can’t get the driver working. It’s late and I’m tired. I really don’t know what’s going on. I realize my chipping looks really unprofessional, but I checked continuity on every one. I probably threw away on for every one I installed. I hooked it up to the led and was using one 18650 for power. Nothing. The LED is OK.
The thing is, I can’t figure out where the positive legs on the 7135s lead to. I can’t get a beep out of the Positive LED lead wherever I touch. I assumed that the pos. legs would give me a continuity “beep” on the pos. LEd wire. The neg. legs give me a beep, but nowhere on the board can I get a reaction from the pos. LED wire.
I tested all the pads before I started soldering, and it was the same then. I assumed it was beyond my understanding. I don’t think I damaged anything removing the driver from the pill, but who knows. I’m wondering if those leads from the charging port have anything to do with it, but I doubt it.
Why can’t I get any continuity on the Pos. LED wire?
I know it looks hacky, but all the chips have continuity. Most of the mess you see is flux.
I finally found one spot that has continuity with the Positive LED wire.
The bottom right chip you added to the L2 bank. I see what looks like a solder blob between the middle prong (ground) and the right prong (positive). If it's bridging the two prongs you have a short.
EDIT: In the L1 bank, the top right chip and third chip from the top on the right look like they are not in direct contact with the board. The should be flat and in direct contact with the pads. They look like they are sitting on top of solder blobs. If that is the case, it is possible that one or both of the solder blob is connecting to an underlying positive contact pad. That would create a short.
I know the bottom right one looks like a solder blob, but it isn’t. I tested I’ll of them, and all the prongs are giving me conectivity readings with their counterparts in the same row. I checked each one for shorts, and I can’t find any. All the chips are in contact with the board, some may be raised a bit, but they are connected with solder. It was a tough job for someone with no experience.
Should the pos. legs have connectivity with the pos. LED wire, because none of them do. I tested the pads before I started, and the didnt then either.
First time? Wow, that is real good work. Those little guys are no fun to work with.
The positive legs should not have connectivity to the LED. They should connect to the battery positive via the MCU. The MCU controls the 7135 chips via the positive legs. When power is applied to the positive legs, the chips connects the negative legs to ground. The positive connector on the LED is always in direct contact with the battery positive. So you should have continuity from the positive battery contact on the driver to the LED positive.
Okay. I’ll check that tomorrow. I don’t think I was getting anything between them. I was tired and was using holding battery wires against it. I’ll check for connectivity there tomorrow. If there isn’t any, what’s next. I’m still wondering about those charging port wires.
I'd remove the one at the bottom right and investigate, the one oddball spot originally left blank just happens to be right beside the LED+...
I'd rather not get into what ifs. Lets cross bridges as we encounter them.
Disconnecting the charging port wires should not be a problem as each of the wires should be open circuit when nothing is plugged into the port. I would advice to not do anything to them until you figure out what is currently wrong. Adding changes on top of changes could complicates things.
Did you test the driver after disconnecting the charge port, before adding chips?
Check for continuity on the charge port between where the two reds were connected.
Agreed... the two red wires are probably connected when there's no charger connected, but when the plug goes in it disconnects the one that goes to the driver input so the charger can't try to power the driver if it's accidentally switched on while charging.
Thanks. I was kinda thinking along the same lines. The one red wire has connectivity with the red Pos. LED wire. If the other red wire has connectivity with the driver boards battery contact, I might be in business. I wonder if the black is just an unnecessary ground. I’ll keep plugging away at it.
The black wire is only for the neg connection from the charger plug. It only has to break the connection on either + or - to lock out the light while charging.
Okay. I’ve got connectivity from the pos battery contact all the way to the LED. Still no light though. I soldered the two red wires from the charging port together. Should I be doing something with the black wire? It leads to ground.
Have you checked, not visually but with an ohmmeter, to make sure none of the 7135 pads are shorted to anywhere they shouldn't be?
Just double check that there is continuity between where the two reds were connected on the charge port. If yes then twist the two charger plug reds together and test the driver.
After checking for shorts again it might be worth a shot to clean the flux residue.
Maybe your flux residue could be conductive enough to cause a problem…?
An old toothbrush and 99% Isopropyl Alcohol or Everclear 190-proof cleans flux pretty good.
That’s what I did. I have full connectivity from battery Pos. contact all the way to the LED.
I rechecked all my chips, and replaced a couple of them. I cross tested all the legs, and couldn’t find any shorts. I think I’ve tossed two or three chips for every one I finally got installed. I’ve been testing with one cell. Do you think it needs two in parallel?