The tail switch might cut the current draw some. Usually when people measure current draws they are bypassing the tail switch.
And replacing that with cheap ammeter resistance. Which being cheap, is probably more anyway 
.
Cainn, no such luck huh... serves you right for buying quality batteries haha.
I think people get overly paranoid about these direct drive lights. Many of us have this drop in, the 980L and other direct drive lights that have been getting constant use for over a year now without the LED burning out. Typically the battery only delivers these extremely high amperage numbers when they have a fresh charge, once you drop below 4 volts I find the amperage they put out is closer to the mid 3s which is perfect for an XML.
I am concerned about getting some decent heat transfer into the body though. People often talk about using foil and whatnot, but I’m after a more elegant solution. Something like IO use, pictured here: http://www.intl-outdoor.com/xml-u2-p60-dropin-module-p-336.html
It’s some sort of thermal compound obviously. Is it available anywhere?
Then there is the heat conductive copper foil from manafont: http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/heat-conductive-copper-foil-strip-15-cm-33-meters-p-8427
Alternatively, what’s the best homemade solution?
Aluminium foil or stripes of aluminium cans. Its homemade.. obviously the very best method would be to fill the gap with molted aluminium.. But wrapping it with foil works very well. Of course you can use weird thermal compound or expensive copper tape.. but I dont see a real benefit.
LOL. Awesome. I’ll just get myself all set up with a backyard melting furnace. Done!
Seriously though, thanks for the tip 
Please take pictures or better make a video. :P
Actually it isnt that hard to melt aluminium.. about 700°C, but I think you might melt driver and LED..^^
In the beginning I thought of adding large drops of tin (from tin rods, used to solder roof gutters) and then file them down to make a perfect fit.. but wrapping it in foil works as good as you could expect for such a small host.
Solder might work well… I have an Ultrafire in my L2, and the PWM REALLY bothers me, and now that I know its direct drive…. I do have like 40 18650’s, but they’re all pack pulls, so they don’t deliver that much current.
I used this copper foil (be sure to get the thicker stuff - this is 5mil). Seller is great, quick delivery and well packaged. It's my understanding that you don't want the stuff with adhesive (like the Manafont linked copper tape) because the adhesive will restrict heat transfer somewhat. I wrapped 2 coils of this copper sheeting in my fake L2 and the drop-in required a slight push to squeeze it in. I have not left it on long enough to check the heat transfer through the body though. I used it on my bike once, but it was a cool evening and I was riding with it on.
-Garry
If it is reading 5 amps, it can’t have much resistance.
I have 3 Manafont XM-Ls that I’ve used for over a year with no problems. They’re heavily wrapped along with Arctic Silver and get warm but not too hot. Off course I don’t run on high for more than 8 mins or so at a time. 2 are in these hosts and the 3rd is in a DBS with SMO. I run AW or ReadiLast 2900s and they are BRIGHT!
Welcome aboard, SCEman!
Thanks. Nice to be here!
Aloha and welcome to BLF SCEman!
Thanks. BTW I’ll be in Maui in August 8)
You'll love it there! Maui has the some of the best beaches in the world. Make sure you watch the sunrise up top Haleakala. It's the one thing I really regret not doing when I was there a few years ago. It's now on the top of my Hawaii bucket list along with making it to the top of Mauna Kea.
Oh man… those Cryos bezels… :weary: do want.
RE: Maui
Been there a couple times before (Kaanapali), and also to Kona, but not Hilo.
Sorry for taking this off topic…
So, my drop-in arrived today, and it’s pulling 4.8 amps. Not as much as my also newly arrived 980L for whatever reason. But if these readings are accurate, it’s a good thing.
Aside from the raw power draw (or perhaps more accurately in cases like this, the raw inefficiency), close examination reveals this to be a quality built P60 drop-in. That’s obviously why people recommend it, and I like it too
This Manafont uf 3-mode dropin is great. I bought four of this, all for Solarforce torches. Now I’m trying my first diy-p60 dropin with a xm-l u3. I need a driver like this in the uf dropins, because it goes a kind of direct drive on high ( doesn’t it?). Why do i think that? Well, try to use 16awg wire (or even thicker) with your multimeter for tailcap readings. My dropin pulls 6.8Amp on high with a fully charged aw imr.
Do I have to disassemble this dropin to get the driver or can i get something similar from kd etc. meanwhile?