I got this one
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=501-1311-ND&x=–1075&y=–51&cur=USD
as it worked out about the same price (I was getting other stuff from Digikey) and I’d be able to start futzing around in a few days rather than a few weeks 
AFAIK it’s the same thing as the one Tom linked to, just without the cable (which you have to change around anyway).
Dont know if I can make it work but I bought one of those dang clips and I guess that I will that dang programmer pretty soon and program chips that for what ever reason I think that I need to do……. lol
I have that same clip. Its ok, I ordered it because it was USA also. Sometimes it doesn't want to say on the micro ( at least mine doesn't).
Are all of you guys ( the 3 posts above this) writing your own code for the nanj boards?
Well, I'm a consulting software engineer, so of course I had to dabble, clean it up some. Basically though it's the luxdrv by Dr Jones, then I re-configure modes, and change definitions for medium and low for example. The beacon I changed to 2 blinks instead of one - haven't had time to do much else with it.
I planning on starting with DrJones lupodrv and then working up from there. I’m hoping to get the temp sensor working right in the ATtiny25 too, but considering that I’ve never written a line of code, it might be a while
Sweet, I'm glad to see more people getting into programming their drivers!
How are you going to get lupodrv? I don't see any download for it - and Dr Jones, when asked where it can be downloaded, responded with this: "If anyone is interested in such a driver, pm me. I have a couple of NANJGs left.", here in this thread on the driver: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/12246. So, it sounds like he's not releasing the source code or binaries, but only releasing it in pre-programmed Nanjg's? I didn't ask him though, so not sure, but if he made it available I would think he would have had it posted like luxdrv is posted?
ah, didn’t know that 
Guess I’ll have to start with the BLF-VLD code and go from there.
Had to do this classic one: beamshot of the moon with modded UF-T20 
:
Reflowing that sinkpad directly on to the pill was a good idea.
I just modded this light. I did not expect to be so awesome after the modding.
It is my first zoomie and I simply love how it turned out, what a crazy little flashlight !
The flashlight is from wallbuys. It came with a XML emitter, and the tailcap current was 2A.
The pill is brass, the lens is glass and the overall quality of the flashlight is good !
I remove the original XML emitter and installed a Dedomed CREE XP-E2 R4 1C LED on Noctigon 20mm star.
The 20 mm star has to be trimmed a little for it to fit in the brass pill.
For it to properly focus with the new emitter I had to machine the raised 16mm pad from the brass pill, so the new emitter could sit lower.
To get out most out of the XP-E2 emitter it needs to be driven at ~2,5A. By only changing the emitter, the tailcap current decreased form 2A to ~1,5A, so I also installed a new 17mm driver and now I get a 2,3A talicap current with a fully charged 18650.
The throw of the modded light is just amazing !!
I do not have a lux-meter, but on a dark night, I could clearly see being lit a building situated at 700 meters ! ! It looked like it could throw even more.
I decided to improve this little throw monster even further and added to my UF T20 a recycling light aluminium collar.
I ordered it at a local CNC machine shop. The dimensions to perfectly fit the T20 brass pill are : exterior diameter 26mm, interior diameter of the hemisphere : 20mm.
Polished the interior hemisphere to mirror finish.
When focused , the collar projects a perfect square image back to the emitter.
Focusing is very demanding, a difference in height of 1/10 mm can badly defocus the reflection!!
The tint also becomes warmer.
Playing with it on my test setup, when fully focused, i observed a increase in brightness of at least 60 percent of the projected emitter image!
First i decided to go with the collar aperture of 10mm (50% of the hemisphere diameter) but in the T20 setup, the focal length is very small and the expanding cone of light that escapes the collar does not hit the entire surface of the aspheric lens.
So i decided to sand down the collar until the escaping light cone became large enough to illuminate the entire surface of the lens.
The question is what is better? The collar with the smaller aperture( more light reflected back on the emitter) Or larger aperture ( escaping light cone fully use the lens surface ) ?
After the mod, the flood mode becomes narrower,
I do not have a luxmeter, but now it clearly throws better.
got any pictures for us to see Borg? I dedome XP-E2… sure it seems like it’s bright… but shoot it more than 100M… what can you see with it? the beam are so small it barely able to lit up a whole person.
for me dedome XP-G2 on noctigon copper with 3.5A it’s more than enough in the zoomie.
because you also want the flood too to make it all around light 
That is a very nice mod, with a very good gain, thanks for showing it. I know the dilemma: go for the best throw and sacrifice the flood, or go for the best output, even in flood. I think the last is better, you only re-use the light that also would be lost in flood modus and get it back as extra illuminance.
djozz, thanks !
DayLighter, for me, the spot size could be even smaller .With XP-E2, at 100m, the side of the square spot is ~4 meters i believe.
I will try some beamshots, but for now i can only use a 3mp phone camera. It should be enough for comparing it side by side with a 350+ Klux thrower, a fully modded Trustfire TR-J19. I will try to post the beamshots tomorrow.
Ok, here are some beamshots.
The 3 flaslights used are :
modded Trustfire TR-J19, dedomed noctigons XM-L2 U2 1A, 4,5A tailcap current(3 x 32650 trustfires series), build report here : link
modded Uniquefire UF-T20, dedomed XP-E2 R4 1C Noctigon, 2.3A tailcap current + recycling light collar , build report in this thread.
Sky Ray King, 6 x XM-L2, domes ON, driver mod from 5A to 9A tailcap current.
The shots were taken with a 3Mp phone camera, the exposure was locked to minimum(–2) and the white balance locked to daylight.
The daylight white balance mode makes the image more warmer than reality and probably makes the warmer Uniquefire spot to seem a little brighter.
Distance : 100m
Forgot to take a control shot, but there was pitch black.
In the first picture the beams are X crossed, it is hard to hold both lights and take a picture with the phone at the same time
first picture : Uniquefire uf t20 spot left, Trustfire tr-j19 spot right
second picture : sky ray king 6 x XM-L2
third picture is digitally enhanced, for fun : Uniquefire uf t20 distance 180m
i have one with nanjg 3.05A dedome xpg2 r5 its very bright but i can not so precision focus like the smallsun c10
i have buy transistors for op to 4Amp
i have another pill with najg 2.8A with xre cool with: its not so bright.
Thank you for the pictures and modding idea. I have the same flashlight - maybe I will modd it a little bit, too.
Ok guys, I finished my first mod. With some tips from Djozz, the shopping list has been as follows:
- Wallbuys UF T20
- C8 brass pill from FT (and some silicone lube & thermal paste)
- Intl-outdoor: Noctigon XP20 MCPCB & CREE XP-G2 R5 3C LED and Qlite Rev.A 7135*8 3.04A driver
This week finally the FT package arrived, so I spend the evening modding this T20. Last month I've read many posts so I was well prepared :)
First step: chemical dedoming! I decided not to use gazoline but cellulose based thinner, learned from BLF member Toppel in this great post.
Within an hour, the dome fell off in pieces, as you can see in the pictures:
So, in my humble opinion thinner/cellulose is the way to go for dedoming, as it is clean and easy to use.
After dedoming I carefully installed & soldered the Led board and driver on the pill, and bridged the 4th star of the driver to ground for moonlight/low/mid/high switching options. Then I assembled the flashlight and hit the switch for some test shots.
Full zoomed in/out (mouseover):
My first impressions are mixed, see images below:
- it's a powerful light, though I can't really compare the original T6 with the XPG2 LED
- it gets quite hot after a few minutes on highest power
- no blinkies is nice. Don't know if moonlight setting is useful.
- the 'zoomed in' spot is not very consistent, it looks like a moon with darker areas. It's not a perfect circle and certainly not a sharp image of the Led dye like I can see with the SK68 clones.
- when zoomed in, there's a large 'ring' noticable. I don't like that.
- The light is quite yellow, compared to a SK68 Q5. Don't know if this is 'normal' or a result of the dedoming.
SPOT:
Annoying "ring":
SK68 clone vs UF T20 (dedomed XPG2)
The tint looks familiar, this what you get upon dedoming (warmer tint). It is just not fully focussed, mine does also not fully focus because of the thicker led-board and the dedome, but my spot is much tighter than that. Some people have reported issues with the focus of this light.
That is light gets hot is no problem, mine gets hot but hardly looses output, indicating that the led temperature is still fine.
The ring is the upper rim of the pill reflecting light, you get rid of that by blackening the side of the cavity the led board is in. Using a permanent marker already helps a lot.