Upcoming Astrolux S42 18350/18650 quad w side button and usb charging

[m_a_schuster]

@Tom E

Dbl click to flip to 7 modes.

Hhmm. I guess I could have crushed my EFEST 18350 as well to make it work, but don't think that's how it should be. Those dents you created are typically worth tossing the cell for. I'd say from the pics, yours is the same as mine. If you have to crank on tightening the light up, you are typically doing damage. There's an amazing amount of force than can be applied on threading a tube tight. I've done it before a couple times at least.

The best way of testing this is: remove the tailcap, insert a cell into the battery tube, press down pretty darn hard on the cell til it doesn't go any further by finger. If the cell still is above the lip of the tube, you got problems, because that lip must make contact to the aluminum around the tail spring in order to have an electrical return path for the Batt- signal. The threads are anodized so won't conduct electricity.

Regarding damage to LiIon cylindrical cells from axial compression, see my post:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/38554/133

I figure my Nitecore 18350 is compressed way less than 1mm, so perhaps I'm safe.

Using your test, the battery definitely protrudes above the rear lip of the battery tube. That's why I increased the reach of the battery tube by shimming the front end. It also makes it possible to use the 18650 battery tube which suffers from the same problem (i.e. the driver board is glued in place 1-2mm too deep for either battery tube to reach it).

I just read elsewhere that Banggood has realized this is an issue from numerous buyer complaints and is working on a fix. From a business standpoint, mailing out some 2mm thick front-end retaining rings is a lot cheaper than replacing the same number of battery tubes having longer threads on the head end.