Sorry Tom, i haven’t been following the 25/45/85 thread. I wasn’t aware of the problem. I have a layout in my head I can swap the BR for a cap, maybe I can get to it later tonight.
Hummm? So do you think there is a open sourced firmware out there somewhere that is close enough that I could “tweak” it to fit my needs? I am far from building my own drivers, but I am determined to find my way there:) Right now I understand the idea of slave board, but that is about it. I’ve swapped some resistors and fried a couple drivers… That’s my qualifications at the moment:) Im going to attempt adding 7135’s this week. So, atleast I’m moving forward.
I will quiet down and let you get back on track now as i don’t want to hijacked this thread.
Nice job, Pilotdog! You’re really pushing things forward.
I haven’t even tested out the DoubleDown, but will do for sure, because I love that bypass-hole-design. I’m sure you would’ve done it to the TripleDown-17mm if you found enough space… But in terms of space you managed to fit a lot into 17mm.
I’ve used a A17DD-SO8 in a Convoy L2 lately, drilled a hole through the triangular LED+ pad and managed to fit in 18AWG silicone wires. I really like the way the LED+ is arranged there. With some recent drivers I don’t feel comfortable using 18AWG if I have to use the pad and it’s very close to the ground ring. The width and shape of the ledge this ground ring sits on varies with different hosts and I find myself worrying about clearance sometimes.
Well thanks for the compliments Chouster. Yeah, there was no way to get a pass through on the 17mm, and personally I hate the center pad on the S08. I find it a huge pain to solder to. This board has a bit more room around the outside than some of my others, and the 20mm board has a full 3mm of clearance around the edge.
I haven’t soldered on the S08 pad yet, probably never will, I just like the fact that you can drill and run a 18AWg wire through. Maybe there would be space for a hole if you would skip the LED+pad, but I know you’re not a fan of that. Anyways, very nice job.
Uploaded 17mm Rev1.1z. Zener-ready (will also work for TomE’s extra cap.)
Sorry, no time to search - not sure if it would be public though. There are a few projects posted about in the past that did not have publicly posted source code. There still might be something though.. Recall pyro1son maybe did a multi-color F13 mod that sounds similar, ahh, here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/33785
You might look here..
http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/files
17mm Rev2
This version has a different focus. Rev1 was focused on providing the most possible control over a primary LED or controlling a secondary LED with lower current. Rev2 is more for lights that have 2 primary led’s, like the C22c or some bike lights.
As it sits, it is a FET+6 layout, basically a DoubleDown driver with 2 extra 7135’s. The FET and the 6 bottom 7135’s are on the two PWM outputs of the Attiny13a. If you cut the trace under the 7135 on the top, it separates the 6 bottom 7135’s from the FET. So you can have 2.28amps regulated for one output, and the FET for the other output. It will also work with existing firmwares, you only need to adjust mode levels to your liking. If you use an Attiny25/45/85 instead of a 13, you should be able to output PWM from Pin3, activating the 7th 7135 on the top, turning the FET side into a FET+1 side (and still leaving you with 6*7135 on the other side). (Sorry TomE, couldn’t find a spot for the extra cap on this one.)
Of course this is all pretty experimental. I don’t know how the FET side will behave amperage-wise when both sides are on full.
Ordered the 1.1z. Thanx PD68!
Sweet. Btw, 20mm Rev1 has now been replaced by Rev1z
Edit: also uploaded 20mm Rev2z
Well I have a couple of these boards in my possession now. Who wants to volunteer to make the firmware work? Nobody? Ok, I’ll petition the firmware thread. 
Got mine too, no time yet.
Just glancing over it quick, I think you forgot to define “RED_PIN”.
Add:
I presume the “RED_PIN” came from Ferrero_Rocher.c? I’d suggest substituting “FET_PIN” instead just keep things clearer.
Ahhhh yes sorry, I’ve made that change but it needs some cleaning up which I will try to do tonight. Was a fix bodge during work.
I’ve made a few tweaks should be OK now if you want to give it a go.
I probably won’t be able to get to it till thursday evening. Thanks for working on it!
Hi PD68 - I rcv'd the 1.1z's. Not sure if I'm missing something, but on the 1.1 versions, if you want to separate the 7135 outputs from the FET, I thought you'd cut the trace at the white line, but I can't figure out how that would work, because the thru holes for the 7135 outputs go direct into the FET output pad.
Am I missing something, or was that the design intent?
That was the intent. Cutting at the line on the top separates the single 7135 from the rest. The six 7135’s on the bottom are still on the same output as the FET.
It was done this way so that it would also work with the Attiny13a as it only has two PWM outputs. You can leave the trace not-cut and you will have PWM on the single 7135, separate PWM on the six 7135’s on the bottom, and full on on the FET all to the same LED. If you do cut the trace, you get PWM on the single 7135 going to a secondary LED (like a red xp-e2), plus PWM on the six 7135’s and Full on on the FET going to the primary LED.