Right, I found the same datasheet, but the board doesn’t say which way to put it. I’m pretty sure I’ve got it right in the photo.
Matt - did my post above help clarify anything for you?
After giving up on trying to fit a 17mm TAv1 into a Convoy S2 (the “shelf” on the pill is wider, so R4 usually gets crushed), I built a BLFA6_EMU hexfile with custom modegroups and flashed it onto a MTN-17DDm with ATTiny25. It flashes OK, but when I power it on, it just randomly cycles through all of the modes.
I’ve checked through fr-tk-attiny.h and the pins look correct. I’m not sure where to look next.
Hi Flintrock,
I wanted to take a look at your firmware and see if I can use it for some of my recent builds, but it seems like your links in the OP aren’t working, at least for me!?
EDIT: Well, http://www.tinyupload.com appears to be down right now.
EDIT 2: Downloads are working again now.
I tried to contact flintrock over PM
I got a question if 2S OTSM works with zener diode or if the LDO is nessesary
Tom is correct. It doesn’t matter what OS you use to compile; it matters what settings are used and which version of gcc.
If a project was developed with one toolchain and compiled with another, that’s where things get messy. For example, if it was developed with a Makefile or shell scripts for building, and then someone else tries to build it in AVR Studio, then the intended settings are lost and must be re-entered manually in the other tools. But the OS itself doesn’t really matter.
Anyway, a while back I was going to put Bistro-HD into the main code repository but Flintrock asked me to wait until a few things were fixed. Any idea if it’s ready to be added yet?
I don’t have any relevant hardware to test it on, so I’m hoping someone else has verified it.
I am trying to get the OTSM drivers to work,
first
does only get low mode, nothing else
the 2.
gets only low-medium-high
tapping often does not enter config mode
long clicks are not working at all
the 3. only in low mode
4. LDO no response at all
I see Flintrock hasn't been on for 3 weeks. Dang, I really want to read up more on this version - sounds like a bunch of nice features. I've been flip flopping around on clicky switch driver - Bistro, my own, Biscotti, etc., so was hoping to standardize on this one.
Flintrock - congrats on this!! Awesome job!
Yeah, his last post Here seems to indicate he’s got stuff going on (Don’t know if good or bad stuff). It would be great if he’d finish this. It really is (or can be) a nice upgrade.
I hope i am not sitting on parts for 25 OTSM drivers just to figure out they dont work at all
I could maybe help here. Dunno enough yet about building them. Do standard TA boards work? Dunno bout that C2 cap - if it fits on standard C2 pads. Dunno bout the diode either - if that's just a standard diode or not.
the cap is 0805 but fits on the 0603 pad
the diode is a shottky also used on other drivers
the R1 and R2 are different
I needed to add a Diode to the 2S LDO 17mm now it is working
trying to figure out whats wrong with 1S
So you tried three identical 1S boards with the issues as listed above? Weird bout the LDO - never used a diode with one. The LDO replaces the diode on all our other e-switch drivers. Sure you got the correct LDO part? I got burned before by having the wrong type of LDO.
Those R1 and R2 values sure are strange... But I see now - should work fine.
Are you using an "approved" MCU revision?
I figured it out
I made a stupid mistake populating C1 as usual with 10uF, but OTSM needs 1uF there
I had a bunch of 0805 1uF left, where I should have used almost all of them
Ahh! Yea, noticed that in the manual (and post #94). Didn't notice it at first glancing at the parts list.
I loaded Bistro HD OTSM in Amtel Studio
Now I tried to compile a hex with a custom modegroup
But when I flash it its totally messed up, the driver has only 3 modes, does not accept long clicks
when entering config it bliks 6 times then buzz and thats it
P.S. I did a new project in Amtel studio and now it seems to work
also I am puzzled how to change the LVP to another value
the fr-calibration.h has still the stuff from Bistro using 19.1/4.7k resistors to define voltage
also still searching where to adjust moonmode to get it a bit brighter, now its more a firefly mode
@KFulton: nice to hear you have some drivers working!
When I saw that flintrock had been absent I was bummed a bit as I purchased parts with tight tolerances and the parts were not cheap. So, I hope you can share with us some more? What has been your experience? Learn anything that may be helpful?
@Flintrock: please come back. You’ve done some great work. Your intelligence causes you to have some conversations with yourself sometime but it is still nice to listen in and it documents some priceless information:) hope all is well
You could try changing the modegroup header file from:
#define RAMP_PWM2 4,7,20,35,55,100,160,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,0
to:
#define RAMP_PWM2 7,7,20,35,55,100,160,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,0
but I don’t know if that will work. The moonlight might be hard-coded somewhere (I can’t find it either).
Well, since you asked, a few random observations, some of which were already posted elsewhere, in no particular order -
1. Here is the final parts list that I used for 17mm 1S:
U1: ATTiny25V
U2: SIR800DP
D1: RB751V40T1G
D2: none
C1: 1uF (0805)
C2: 47uF (0805) 298D476X0010P2T
OTC: none
7135: 350ma
R1: 1K (0603)
R2: 3.3K (0603)
R3: 100K (0603)
R4: 47 (0603)
R5: 4.7 (0603)
BR: none
There are cheaper/better options for C2, but I don’t know what is the best option there.
2. Moonlight is crazy low, more like a firefly/sub-lumen mode. I changed my modegroups around to use ramp level 2 instead of moonlight.
3. The tantalum capacitor is polarized. I posted a picture of the working orientation in a previous post.
4. No bleeder resistor is needed for lighted tailcap builds (at least on 17mm 1S). All of my Convoy S2/S2+/S3 builds have them.
5. There is some occasional odd behavior with short presses. If you haven’t turned the light on in a while, and immediately tap forward rapidly a few times, some of the forward taps will behave as medium-presses. This clears up within a few seconds and won’t come back again for a long time (several days? Need more time to figure this one out).
6. I managed to destroy a bunch of 7135s by soldering them by hand with an iron. I discovered this when doing tail measurements with a multimeter. Apparently the little things can’t handle an iron at 650F. I replaced all of them with fresh 7135s and reflowed them using solder paste and hot air, and everything was fine after that.
7. Since I was doing a bunch of projects at the same time, I used the electric skillet method for the side with the tiny components. Works great! I usually use hot air for SMD, though, especially after the 7135 incident.
8. Convoy S2 and S2+ pills do not work very well with 17mm TAv1 drivers. You need to either file the retaining ring way down or solder the drivers in place. I tried to solder one to a S2 pill and the heavier components on the other side of the board fell off. I have read that some people have had success with using a blowtorch to pre-heat the pill, but I haven’t tried that. The Convoy S3 has a wider retaining ring and works without any fuss.