You'll likely have to sand it a bit, in both diameter and thickness if you have the means. In my case, I've only had to shave about 0.2mm in diameter.
Also not sure what I've been sent it's the actual Micro MCPCB, or just a generic 15mm or so one (it's now in and bezel pressed, so no way out of there any longer.. )
Oh, just to answer your question, now that I've had both the UT01 in hand and the GT Micro opened up to pull out the driver:
- Yes, I was correct in assuming that you'd need to sand the Micro's MCPCB down about 0.2mm ~ 0.3mm to have it fit in the UT01
Myself, I've just used the original MCPCB/emitter in the UT01, not only because I was lazy (which I definitely am.. ) but also to see if it would make a big difference.
I can conclude that both my EDC05 (sanded Copper MCPCB) and the UT01 (original Aluminum MCPCB) are getting hot quite as fast.
I'd imagine that the AL MCPCB it's too thin to make a big difference, and the copper one has so little thermal mass as well as the host itself, than it doesn't really matter..
Well, it had to be done..
Just couldn't stand the thought of that indicator light just staying there with only a bit of Aluminum standing in it's way.
So, pulled out the rubber booth with a toothpick and removed the ring from underneath this time to avoid scratches.
Lucky me, I've left just enough slack on the wires so I could push the driver down a bit and start "milling" that hole.
Extra content following :)
My Utorch UT01 just came the other day, so, obviously, it had to go through the same procedure..
It's only, good thing I've had a body from another donor EDC05, otherwise the original UT01 one wouldn't take protected cells..
You just like protected cells or is LVP missing from GT Micro driver?
I just don't have unprotected cells in general. Usually I prefer capacity over current. As for the GT Micro driver I'm not sure whether it has lvp or not.. Really I haven't bothered looking that up or ever run a cell dry.
I’ve done many mods to my lights but this is the only one I’m not comfortable doing myself. My Manker U11 has a press-fit bezel and I don’t want to break the lens trying this. Does anyone know anyone here that would be willing to perform this mod for me in exchange for cash money? This has been my backup, backpack light and hasn’t been in my rotation for years because I absolutley hate the long-press off UI.
Manker U11 doesn't have a press fit bezel, it's only 2 threads and very hard to grip on that bezel with no notches or anything cut for any tools to fit in.
I've struggled a bit to open up my Manker U12 and also I was wondering at first if it wasn't a press fit bezel. Fortunately, it's not the case.
I was thinking of a different light. Is there a way to do this to my U11 and E11?
Not sure what about the U11, but definitely on the E11 it's possible to swap in a GT Micro driver, just as I did on my Utorch UT01, which same as the E11, has a screw in bezel.
I've bought the UT01 especially as a host for this mod purpose, as my Lumintop EDC05 had a press fit bezel, thus I've damaged my first one, before buying the second one completely disassembled.
For the U11, I think I'd try a Thrunite T1 driver, but first I have in mind finding a SMO reflector and maybe an XHP35 to fit inside it. The driver compartment it's kinda shallow and it'll only take a single PCB driver.
A stacked 2 PCB driver or a driver with a big inductor likely won't fit and you'd have to be a bit creative about the switch PCB as well.
If you're interested in the internals of the Manker U11, this would be a good start with plenty detailed pictures: http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=38570/
GL & HF!