Me either, but in the case of last night I did not have many options as I had also left the headlamp that is normally in my duty bag, a Spark ST6, and my new Tank007 at home. So I tried to manage it by switching it off when it felt like it may be getting too hot. I get the impression if you can provide constant airflow for cooling it may be able to sustain some more prolonged usage.
Outdoors, with air movement, you can definitely push it further. In a critical situation, I would push it a lot further than in any test or casual situation. I am confident that the emitter is not getting close to it’s max temperature unless the outer temperature is approaching 100C (depends on the light of course) which would no longer be hand-held. Even at 70C, aluminum is very uncomfortable to hold for long.
Thanks for that. I noted that driver said it had a temperature shut off. But as non of the modes work, I think it’s safe to assume that neither will the temperature circuit. Are there any DD drivers that would do a similar job in the range of 4A? I assume FT does not carry them?
Hi,
I just got one of the ramping and one of the non-ramping V10+ drivers from FT in, and tested the non-ramping one, and using bench supply, I am getting 4.6+ amps at tailcap and at emitter:
EDIT: One thing: I was able to get it to switch mode groups at first, but now it seems to be stuck in the 3-mode group. I never get the blinks when it’s on low, so not sure how to switch groups anymore?
EDIT: How do you use this driver in a light? I want to use in an UF S5, which has a really small pill. I’ve used another different 2-board driver in another S5, by Fujiking the 2 boards together and gluing to the pill, but on this V10+, the non-contact board doesn’t have any negative path :(?
EDIT 2: I decided that what I’m going to try to do is mount the front/driver board into the S5 pill, filling the pill with Fujik and AA the board to the pill. Once that sets, I’ll fill the area between the contact board and the driver board with Fujik.
The conect board has the negative ring, plus two “notches” that are plated, so I’ll add some solder to the spring side of the negative ring.
The way that the S5 works is that it has an aluminum retaining ring that’ll screw down into the head to hold the pill in, so that retaining ring will provide contact via the solder on the contact board negative ring to provide the negative path.
Hopefully, this’ll all work, and with the right battery, I’m hoping to get ~4.6 amps to drive an XP-G2 3up in the S5 (yes, it’ll get hot fast :)!)…
EDIT 3: When I put it into my S5, it wasn’t working :(. I also got one of the ramping ones, so I figured I’d try that, but when I pulled it out of the FT packaging, one of the white wires between the 2 board was disconnected :(… So no V10+ for now. I’ve opened a ticket at FT.
Could someone who has the ramping 5 amp V10+ driver from FT take a pick of the side of the blue board where the wires are connected. Maybe I could fix it, but not sure where the white wire came off from. It looks like there are 2 solder points (pads with solder on them already) on the board with no wire, so I can’t figure out which one.
Thanks,
Jim
One of the points is right next to where the black wire is attached. A large pad with solder on it.
The other point (lump of solder) is near that, but closer to the “notch” at the edge of the board, right next to a chip that has marking “E02”.
EDIT: Here’s a pic showing the 2 points circled in red.
Lol you get 4.5A at 4V…but you should measure current at around 3.7V…
+1
These driver do not perform well inside flashlight if you are looking for max output. A Qlite with extra 7135s would be better.
Point B should get the juices flowing! ;)
The one next to E02, right?
Yupp. (the area your marked point b)
That did it (worked)!
I think that that same wire/joint was probably what caused the non-ramping one to not work also. I removed the Fujik (as much as a I could from that one today also, and there’s no connection to that point either. FT must have some problem soldering the white wire to there, as that white wire is a little to short, I think. I’ll post that info on the ticket I have with them to let them know.
Thanks,
Jim
Agreed. I think I had asked earlier, but most of the posts on this thread were about the ramping version, so I was curious if the same held for the non-ramping version, which is what I tested earlier.
So my conclusion at this point is that the non-ramping version performs (or under-performs) the same way as the ramping version.
Bought the 4A version from IO a FEW months ago and using a Panasonic PD, with the host being a XinTD light with U3 LED, I get a current draw of 3.80A. Recently bought the 5A version from FT and TESTING the driver with a random, probably T6, XML and connecting the +ve of the cell directly to the bottom (+ve input) of the driver, I measure a current draw of 5A. Putting this driver in a 3C host with a XML2, U2 LED and using a home built a 2P, 18650 adapter, I get a current draw of 3.80A however, the output of the mag is a BIT more than the XinTD when the tailcap is screwed on.
Using roof bounce Lux readings for reference, A Convoy C8 (2800mA draw) with U2 LED gives readings of 39 lux. The XinTD with IO, 4A driver (3.80A draw) and U3 LED gives a reading of 57 lux and the XML2 mag with FT, 5A driver gives a reading of 70 lux.
EDIT: Both drivers are ramping versions and personally, I love the FT version up to now since the lowest output is around 3 lumens or less (with the U2 XML2). The LED in the mag is noctigon 16mm cut down do around 10 mm. I have NOT measured output current with these drivers. sorry.
i just ordered this Driver V10+ from fasttech that was before reading this thread so after all do you recommend this driver or i should cancel it ? i will be using it in small sun ZY-T08
Cancel.
Hi, i’m writing from Italy
I have put this ramping driver on a S2+, i measured 5,3A on tailcap.
But now i’m sticked on 100% mode, how can i get out??
Thanks in advance
Up please :face_with_monocle:
Try taking the driver back out and check all your foil traces to see is you shorted or the driver some where. If you have wire try testing it outside of the host. Good luck.
Hi, the driver work fine, when i tried to go from ramping to the 3 mode i got stacked on one mode.
The istruction say wait the blink at low mode, but there isn’t low mode :davie:
My guess also is you have a short somewhere, that is why you get 5A also…
Maybe you have shorted the led wires with the reflector…