It may be old stock.
That fake XM-L, the ‘driver’ and that metal cover over the tail spring llook like 2015 or so to me.
At risk of drifting into politics, to my mind, the phrase that comes to mind is: “if something seems to good to be true, then it probably is”.
There is a catch, probably the downside of offshoring Western Europe’s manufacturing capabilities.
That aside, I’m pleased you’ve recieved a reasonably good host and not just landfill, and I’m looking forward seeing the mods.
It was $4, how can he have possibly gotten ripped off. The way I look at it, if you press the button and it turns on, he got a good deal.
Yeah, it has enough potential to turn it into a decent light.
If you have a 20mm copper dtp LED board that fits snugly in the pill either with or without a bead of JB Weld, it should be safe to run up to 10 Watts i.m.o.
Or just run 6 Watts or so with a Nichia 219B or C you may already have in stock.
Stick in a nanjg 105 with 5 or 6 × 7135 driver you probably still have in the spare parts box and the pill is good to go.
The tailswitch may have to be replaced.
Those ultra cheap tail switches can be really bad.
But a press fit switch assembly usually is good enough if it fits snugly enough.
But the plastic reflector is probably good enough for the job and it seems to already have a glass lens.
Copper board isn’t going to help much with a hollow pill.
With low enough power it won’t matter much either way.
Put in a warm, high CRI emitter and a low power driver (100mA or less). You now have a high-performing incandescent!
It will definitely help, compared to an aluminium board.
I doubt a 1mm thick aluminium shelf in the pill (like in not hollow pills) will make a whole lot of difference.
[EDIT]Maybe i’m wrong.
Looking at the pics, the ledge the LED board rests on is really narrow… [/EDIT]
It is important though, that there is a decent thermal path from the copper board to the pill.
But the surface area of the board in contact with the hollow pill is easily larger than the thermal pad of a 3535 LED to the DTP board.
A bit of JB Weld will help improve things a bit more, or some thermal glue if you have any.
Ideally one press fits a round 20mm dtp board (like Noctigon of Kaidomain boards) into the pill, but perhap the cavity in the pill is too large to press fit it. I don’t know that.
But there are always ways to make it better, but it may take too much time and effort or stuff you don’t have (like aluminium solder and flux).
Sorry to disappoint you guys but this light is not going to be modded.
Because I do flashlight repair service (it’s a way to financially support my hobby) I am constantly getting (more than I would like) requests to turn these $5 C8 lights (adds are full of them, for $10-15 you get like all-inclusive set, flashlight, battere(s), mains charger + car charger, color filters, remote switch, rifle mount, nice padded box, you can imagine what’s the quality of all this) into Convoy C8/Osram “white flat”/@5A/500+m thrower.
Because, you know, those two flashlights look 99% identical when you look at the photos, you just stick another LED inside (trust me, people really do believe that changing only the LED will make all that difference from $5 to $30+ flashlight) and it will magically become 10 times better.
Then I start explaining about thermal conductivity of hollow pill and conducting heat through the threads and that LEDs also heat up significantly when you push some amps to them, but how could that be when LEDs are advertised as a “coold” source of light, we get to the list of all components that would have to be “upgraded” by changing them with better ones and you already know how much effort it takes to turn nothing into something and it will still not be satisfactory (by my standards) and why it would end up costing more then if they bought a quality light from the start.
If you put yourself in the customer’s shoes, I am explaining something they don’t understand using terms they are not familiar with and it all sounds like I am trying to sale them “identically” looking light for 8 times higher price.
Don’t forget, we are still to have the included “8800mAh” 18650 battery talk.
So the main purpose of this light is to be visual educational tool.
But it’s totally moddable. Plastic reflector is usable, glass lense I would replace just because I have nicer ones from Simon, driver - well this depends what would you like to do with the light but what I would do is to meka a low power lantern that could give a diffused light for entire night (or more) in case of power outage (or you can pretend its power outage, it works :D) you could basically get away with one 7135 AMC for this (and protected cell).
Some of you may remember these screw-in pills that Convoy used when they started, I just tested one and it fits, screws ok, so there’s a 1 minute solution plus, you are avoiding dealing with press fitting the driver. Coupled with copper dtp board and some thermal paste on the pill threads I believe it would be good for 2.5-3A.
Hardest part to deal with would be that press fited switch. There are no threads inside to screw the retaining ring that would hold “normal” switch. To solve this you would either have to have lathe, rely on the glue or just keep it as is (it’s in there tightly and not going out without the fight).
I’m not sure if i would mod it either.
Just saying that it can be done and you only need to sort out the pill and probably the tailswitch, but that could wait until you’re sure it’s crap.
I understand why you won’t mod it but rather use it for educational purposes for ‘the uninitiate’.
When i was new to the Chrinese 18650 flashlight phenomenon i bought 2 C8’s.
An Ultrafire and later on a Thorfire.
They’re not as bad as this specimen you bought, but still a much lower quality than the Convoy C8 with pill which i bought not that long after the Thorfire.
The 2 ——fire ones i have in a drawer with hosts and other gutted lights.
But both have rather loose tailcap threading, so maybe i’ll make some half decent lights out of them “some day”, maybe not…
One has a hollow pill but with a wide enough ledge to put the LED board on with confidence, the other has a Convoy pill, because i put a brass pill in the Convoy.
…and a battery extention tube and a stacked and zener modded Nanjg 105 driving an MT-G2, should do about 2700 Lumen or so.
With a firmly tightened pill the thermal path to the head is fine, the whole thing gets hot fast !
Ah yes, the famous UltraFire WF-501B or TrustFire 3T6
I had many of those, I remember forum members here were reporting when they purchased the good ones and where they purchased so we could avoid bad quality ones, because in those days each flashlight factory made “UltraFire” and “TrustFire” lights.
I am sad now that I did not keep one of each for my personal collection, that TrustFire 3T6 was the first 3xLED flashlight I owned, it was like traveling the warp speed going from incandescent bulb to thousends of lumens in CW tint 
just mind blowing
I have a 501B in use.
I shortened the head to delete the spring and give the drop in a thermal path to the battery tube and to the head near the lens.
Recently popped in a 2700 or 3000K SST-20.
It has a modest 5× 7135 driver, is’s a nice mundain little light.
Inspired by the ideas of my predecessors in this thread I thought I give it a go.
So I started with the hollow (e.i. shelfless) pill. And found that this could be fixed by throwing good money to bad …… I flattened the other side before I hammered it in. Talking about press-fit. At the driver side I used a “20mm to 17mm brass ring adpater forS21A, M21A, S11” as Simon elocquently called it. Now I can use a “normal sized” driver and PCB+led.
The switch is also press-fit. So I kept the earlier mentioned FandyFire STL-V6 tailcap. As cherry on the cake I topped the whole off with a Foy bezel. And because I had some extra bezels in my spare box, I also made a Semi Foy bezel.
Can you screw on the bezel all the way or you have a small gap because it look like the LED mcpcb level is raised by coin thickness?
You are correct to see a small gap. The thickness of the coin is part of the cause.
Plus I replaced the plastic reflector by a longer standard Convoy reflector.
Finally I replaced the rather thick centering ring by a standard 5050 Convoy centering ring, that I filed down as much as possible. Which was not enough to close the gap.
Slip an O-ring in the gap and lets call it a feature 
I tried that but, as the lady said about the birthcontrol pill, it keeps popping out.