So at this point, despite the horrible results in my first couple of tests, I am really doubting these batteries are fake. The pics (above) seem just too authentic. Look at the third pic which shows the holographic, tamper proof seal.
The last pic shows the only “suspicious” thing I could find. The date - 14 11 UN - appears to be stamped rather than embossed. Also , in reality, it is extremely lightly stamped and practically unreadable - this particular battery was the clearest of the four and I had to take it into bright sunlight and hold it just at the right angle to get this image.
What I haven’t focussed on until now is the age of these batteries and my own lack of expertise in “conditioning” them. If the batteries are authentic they’ve been “on the shelf” for nearly three years. Until now I’ve only put these batteries through two standard cycles. The MC3000 gives me the ability to do much more rigorous conditoning before I can truly conclude these batteries are sub-standard.
So today, for the third day, I have again fully charged the batteries. But this time I took the gloves off.
The first two cycles I charged to 1.45V and then to 1.47V - stopping when they APPEARED to be fully charged. Today however, I force-fed them at 400mAh until they peaked at 1.52V. This resulted in noticeable warming of the batteries (33degC) but allowed me to pump in significantly more mAh. As I write, the batteries are again discharging at 200mAh and have already each pumped out 650mAh (including the battery that completely flunked the first two discharges). If nothing else, this saga is going to validate the merits of using refresh or break-in cycles.
I have a fake eneloop charger. Probably the batteries that came along with it might have been fakes but unfortunately the re-seller took them and sold them separately.
@Budsy: Thanks for the pics and such! If you check the pic I posted a few posts back you can follow the red line until it comes to 1.45V then go down vertically and check the blue line right below the place where the red line crosses the 1.45V line. If you then look to the right where you can see the Capacity, you can see that the battery was not fully charged yet.
The end Voltage depends on the condition of the battery and ambient temperature.
This is taken from the Eneloop Pro AAA product sheet. Charged at 1000mA=1A with 3 different room temperatures.
Check out the 1.45V mark on all 3lines. That changes a lot depending on the ambient temperature.
@ChibiM,
thanks for your pics and tips.
After another full cycle of my batteries they are now reading 900mAh+ . I’m sorry about raising your hopes.
To find these phantom fakes, if they are out there, smart operators will need good tools. I started with good tools but I wasn’t so smart. Thanks for the lessons.
I’m wondering if $50USD might bring in a new candidate. If batteries are found, I’m willing to pay the prize and donate the batteries to you for all the great work you’ve done on your site.
The only conditions are:
That you be the sole judge and final arbiter.
That the batteries are something you want for your collection.
No need to do that. I'd like to help people out .There is a lot of wrong advice on the web when it comes to eneloops or even NiMH batteries in general. So hopefully I can educate a bit here and there.
But if you ever come across some "real" fake eneloops by all means get in touch!
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