What are some of the brightest flashlights in our "budget" hobby?

A variation to oldbobk would be the cheapest triple XM-L but with the MCPCB stuck directly to the host. Rip out the driver and just do direct drive, with the cells charged to just 4.0V. Issue is, you need an extender from a TR-1200 or one of those 3 or 4 x 18650 lights, so that you can do 3 x 18650 in this config. But for usd52 shipped, it is not that much more than oldbobk's method, gives out about 2500L OTF nominal and probably 2900L OTF in oldbobk's 45mph 5 deg C condition. :D

Can this throw? Well, i don't know, some people consider 30k cd to be lousy in throw. That is comfortably more than your C8 XM-L btw. I can see the spot on a white building 450m away very faintly. ANSI NEMA FL1 throw is 346m (0.25 lux)

52/3 = $17 per XM-L and does 800 plus lumens OTF. So this is not expensive at all, but issue is there are some guys who always say "this is not a budget light".

new L2i ...not that good , its 1 of 2 L2is I have ..the other has better threads but the anodizing knurling and general finish on tailcap and body of both is less than perfect ..heads ok ..they feel a little cheap in hand , the knurling is sharp and uncomfortable ...

so under priced ? I say no way there ok value for the money nothin more

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Sealedoldbobk,

They will survive here. Just have to keep your hand on the flashlight as a thermostat. If it's too hot to hold then it's time to backoff.

It will survive a 4.2V burn down to 4.0V. Just that it will get !@%$!@#@!# hot and not much advantage in real life (ie more output lumens), not that it is not doable. I tried that with dry ice, should be 6A if i use my current meter and probes. No issues. Thar was with a higher voltage SLA being constantly charged with a PSU (not much sag).

I constantly mention 4.00V in the DRY threads, because i am somewhat sure if i don't do that, someone would put IMRs/unprotected cells from Panasonic or Sanyo into the light, burn it up on a bad day, post pictures and condemn things. hehe....

Then a good light (at least my belief) would be incorrectly blamed. Or someone uses unprotected cells, unmatched and no safe Li-ion SOP (ie just a 10 second voltage test, which isn't too hard), and blows something up. Too many Ebay deals selling the TF-3T6 with ultrafire cells you see....

I agree that a light should be safe, at least then it would be usable by the general population. But it's also nice to be technical as a flashaholic, so no worries.

There is a difference between a very cold surface of aluminum of just 100g for the head and you are able to keep that at 0 deg C, and a big block of 1kg alu at 20 deg C. The wind speed plays a very important role. But yeah, the weather here sucks. LOL! Sealed

Hi evangelizingFoy,

what bezel do you use for the L2i, it´s not a solarforce, is it?

Frank

For a compact 18650, the UniqueFire 2100 XM-L 5-mode is an awesomely bright floodlight @ ~$16-$17. I can't imagine there being a better, smaller, brighter light than the UF-2100 for the price.

For an 18650 thrower, the TrustFire X9 XM-L is an awesomely bright light @ ~$34.00. Large 59mm bezel/head with Surefire-ish looks, the X9 throws nicely w/o having "tunnel vision" from a pencil thin beam or from no-spill lights with aspheric lenses.

For a AA/14500, the UniqueFire G10 1-mode is very bright and pocketsized. From what I've researched and the hundreds of reviews I've read regarding AA/14500 lights before buying the G10, it's one of the brighter AA lights. You will have similar reviews with a UniqueFire S10 or TrustFire R5 A3.

I have these lights and have no problem recommending them. They are bright.

When I first got into LED I got a R5A3 and it demolished my 6cell mag which was the brightest thing in the world I thought boy was I wrong.

And then the addiction started.

I am enjoying the flashlight hobby. It is nice when you find the right light for your needs.

Your first LED light was an TF-R5?? Wow...talk about spoiled from the beginning! I think only XM-L's will satisfy you now. :)

But yeah E, I had the same thoughts with my G10. Couldn't believe that something so small could put out soo much light. Of course, in zoom mode, your Mag will out throw these, but as far as total output...these rock n roll.

stanley - The one pictured began as the crenulated bezel the light came with. I took it down with an orbital then used finer sandpaper.

And spottie; I don't know if you got an unlucky example or what but I have four of these guys, bought separately; two from Lighthound and two from Solarforce-sales. None of them exibit the thread issues you have. I agree, if mine did that I would feel the same way. Your unfortunate light not withstanding;

The Solarforce L2i is one of the finest flashlight hosts extant.

Foy

yeah agreed Foy , it cleaned up not to bad with a scriber scrapped out with little effort , I have an L2t and 2x L2i's one came with the MMP 1 head . I liked the size of the tube on the L2i so I brought another , and all are well close to perfect Laughing picky side the L2t could have a better O'ring on the tail end , the stock one being thin an somewhat flimsy and hooks up and pinch's now an then in the tailcap ...so yeah there pretty good hosts all of'em no doubt

am I thinking correct in that the L2i , L2r & the L2p are the only tail standing stock p60 host from SF ?

I managed to get ~ 9000 lumens from what i just measured my lantern type HIDs. $125 in my case. <- some conditions need to be met.

72L per dollar. So take $23 for a C8 "thrower", that's 1650 lumens. Not too bad man.

You will need 10 XM-Ls in a big custom body to get it to dissipate the heat and be in the same ballpark.

You can get near to 200k lumens for several hundred bucks including battery, but those projects are much more tricky.

It that something you could do with a Thor light conversion?

Of course. If you have or still can find a Thor then it's easy. Get 2 Thors, i read they are something like 60 bucks or what, some versions are more expensive like the Thor X Platinum (9" reflector). You need a bit of work to focus the bulb with some rolled up copper wire to fit between the reflector and bulb, and secure the ballast with 3M heavy duty foam tape (no worries, won't burn) and that's about it. You'll need the big ones so that the regular sized ballast can fit behind the reflector in that cavity. For confirmation, check out CPF HID and Spotlight section. Some do not have space and mount the ballast outside - that is extremely ugly.

This is a 7" thor. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?191645-400W-HID-Thor

Thanks for the info brother that is my next big project.

spottie -

What Sorlarforce appears to do is begin all their pricing with lights equipped with the tail-standing reverse clicky. (clickie?) Then they'll will screw more expensive switches on completed lights or . . . whatever. Actually, I don't know what they do. They sell everything separately and then mix and match all of it the way we flashlight nerds do and sell those as a complete light.

Before I knew what I was doing (I mean, less so than now) the first L2P I bought was the package with two batteries, a charger and a P7 drop-in. After I got less stupid, I discovered several XM-L drop-ins for the same price.

Also, I must admit that I have got a bum light from Solarforce. It happens but not as often it seems, as other budget hosts.

drankthekoolaidFoy

Stanley HID? Wasn't that clearanced for something like $10? I have one and it is insanely bright but the battery does not last much and is little bit big for my pant pocket :-) But it was the best deal that I have found in a long time. This was the last piece in that store and no other store had it in stock. I just lucked out

You did luck-out, sontakke! You may find hobby batteries for sale cheap, that will directly replace yours.

They didn't go on clearance here, in any of the stores. They just shipped them back.

Prolly a good thing, as all the batteries were sulfated/shot.