In this case you would have to be familiar with the packaging of Eneloops.
1st - they are 2450, not 2500.
2nd - the packaging is obviously not Eneloop….but, you would have to know that.
3rd - [ I paid $24 for 12 batteries] That statement alone is proof for me, but again, you would have to know that.
Several people have jumped into the ‘fake’ thread with good suggestions.
Actually, the latest official packaging does state 2500. See page 12 of this Eneloop catalog:
I didn’t realize he had another thread going on this. I see it now. Thanks.
You are right. I’m not familiar with the new packaging.
Well either way I am happy with the charger you helped recommend to me. Going to order the Amazon Basics that specifically say made in Japan. Amazon sells ones that specifically state that and the others are the crap China. The other option is to drive an hour to the Ikea store and pick up some Ladda 2500. I was going to pick up some 2500 for things like camera’s and the others for items like remote controls and such.
I have people give me NiMh that they think are bad. Sometimes they are. Sometimes it’s because they have a lousy charger, or don’t understand what they are doing. I’m amazed how stubborn people can be about not wanting to learn, but being frustrated because they don’t know.
The [Quick Test] function can test internal resistance. It’s not ‘great’ but it does get you in the ballpark. You have to have clean contacts on both the battery and the charger, the cell well inserted and straight for maximum contact. Sometimes I find I have to check several times. It’s pretty easy to tell the difference between [Good - OK - Poor]. Those will have big differences in IR, like 50-100 for good, 100-200 for OK and 300-1000+ for poor. Small cells will always be higher than larger cells. Cells should be charged and at ambient temp to get a decent reading. Sometimes cycling can significantly improve a NiMh, but that seems to be somewhat temporary unless you continue to use it a lot.