What did you mod today?

Hah! Sweet! Challenge accepted :smiley: I really miss some of the folks from those days and how small and tight knit the community was. Most everyone was a contributor back then… in the time before BLF specials and groupbuys and coupon wars.

I feel the same nostalgia for this particular light. The mods I did in that thread were also some of my first dedicated and thoughtful designs. Even though my soldering skills and equipment were terrible in those days… I didn’t have flux and used a craptastic radioshack pencil iron… I’m still proud of the concepts.

Emisar D1s, 7.5amp CC D4V2 Driver with FET enabled, sbt90.2 Delensed LED, Red lighted switch. Running Molicel P26a. will run some amp and CD testing this weekend.

Great work Artie! I’m going to wager 225kcd assuming amps just under 20. That beam looks damn good though, buddy! :beer:

BTW, that’s a ballsy move with that centering ring near them pretty bond wires.

thanks Jared! I'm hoping it hits that high KCD! I still need to measure my sft40 version.

thank, I've ruined a couple doing it that way, but it actually makes me feel more comfortable then delensing and or using the centering ring . I hate delensing The problem is the bezel won't install all of the way without delensing..

but those bond wires, they scare me when they're delensed!

it is a BEAST now :))

After reading on max’ post (link ) I made a triple with CSLPM1. Using a K1 host (unknown mfg,) and an H17A - 5 Amp driver – all from Kaidomain.

My build in the album with some descriptive narrations.

My only setback was an issue with the switch. The design of the tail cap makes for the compressed spring to slightly disconnect the switch. Go figure. Without the battery everything checked out continuity-wise. A thin SS washer solved this.

For the driver, I piggybacked a 20 mΩ to the set 10 mΩ. This gives me about 7½ Amps and should be suitable for the size and weight of the host ~ 25 W. I think these drivers can be pushed to 10 Amps but I had some overdriven failures in the past so I’m better safe than sorry.

I don’t really like the paleness of the host. I wanted a darker dessert/bronze brown. After reading up on baking the anodization, I tried my hand at it. Well, it seems this particular color doesn’t ‘toast’. Maybe my oven isn’t hot enough – 260ºC. No harm done, I’ll live with it, except I’ll be finding some covering. The feel in my hands is too slippery.

I like the creamy-white and the hotspot to spill transition. The whiteness is fine for exterior use. It’s meant to be a pocketable thrower (but it’s not really).

2000 lumens – conservative value from my un-calibrated lightbox. 15.5 kCd @ 3 m. – not impressive as the single emitter MantaRay S21 gives me 25 kCd and is underpowered at 1000 lumens.

K1

Joy of Tir
This Olight SMini has been transformed from a disgusting Low CRI LED to a gorgeous High CRI light.

.

more pics in this album:

and a few more details in this thread:

Nice Mod — I have quite a few lights I’d to try that Optic in — :+1:

That looks great. My go-to light when I’m at work is a S1R II with a 3000K 90+ CRI XM-L2 (factory optic). It’s surprisingly rosy. Duv is –0.003.

It’s an excellent light; small, lightweight and a very simple UI.

what a beautiful light and amazing optic! Great work, Jon!!

I love that Olight UI.

thank you for the kind words
the Tir came from here

Do you have any beamshots (indoor/outdoor) with this configuration?
Thanks in advance :wink:

i’m out of flashlights past 3 months but i can take a few during the weekend. Just send me PM, otherwise i’ll forget about it.

Thanks for your kindness! PM incoming :wink:

I managed to mod the firmware on a spare convoy 7135 based driver board, first time I have used one of these clips for soc-8 SMD MCU, pretty nifty! I have been able to customise the 12 groups with some of my own. Im still working on getting the thermal regulation to work, if i enable it the compiled code is over 1kb so it wont fit on the attiny13a.

The breadboard has a small white led for testing with, the tactile switch simulates the tail switch.

How? t13a doesn’t have builtin temperature sensor like t85. Are you experimenting with external temp sensor?

Nice one Jon!

After seeing TomE do an LED swap on the Astrolux LT1, I just did one with the Polished Titanium LT1 that was my People Choice Award prize for this year. The primary LED was a 6500K 70-CRI SST20. I knew I wanted something warmer and to use just an old LED I had sitting around available. I ended up throwing a 4000K XP-L2 in it. With being highly diffused light, I figured this was a good use for an LED with bad tint shift. Aside from there being 5 small wires to mess with, LED swaps are really easy on these.

That reminds me… I’ve got an SFT40 that I need to swap into my newly arrived Mateminco MT35 Mini (aka Astrolux FT03S). I’ve already got it flashed with Anduril2 instead of Narsil.

Edit: went ahead and swapped that SFT40 into the MT35 Mini while I had the supplies out. Whew, what a difference. Beast of an LED!

I bought this acebeam pt40 on sale a time ago but never used it because beam was too throwy for a work light. So I printed a spacer to replace the tir and hold the glass. Much better light as a mule.

I did not know that thanks. The s2+ I have that was sold as having thermal regulation must have a different MCU I will crack it open and have a look. This board I am playing with is a driver from the same store.