That black bezel is damn sharp looking. I’ll have to try that with my DT M21A.
1 Thank
I put a 5° TIR in my M21B with a sliced 5700K XHP70.3 HD today, and overall I’m pretty happy with the results.
I got a 5° and 25° 32mm x 18mm TIR from “HotRed Official Store” on AliExpress. First time ordering from that store and it arrived to me in 11 days.
I made a 20mm diameter spacer out of some 1/4” aluminum to raise the mcpcb since the TIR is shorter than the reflector. I had to sand about 1mm from the diameter of the TIR holder for it to fit in the bezel. Lastly, I sanded the TIR to make it matte instead of clear.
Sorry about the poor quality beamshot. All my walls are grey and I don’t really know what settings to use.
You sanded the front face of the optic or the parabola?
I sanded the whole front face of the TIR to get rid of some rings in the beam.
I converted a Wurkkos TS10 from a triple to a single. I initially wanted a pocket thrower to set it apart from the stock setup. I had trouble mounting a bare W2 to the MCPCB without the DTP shorting to the negative side. I gave up on that and then tried a couple of those Ying Ding leds. I used a 17mm 20 deg TIR made for XML footprints but the YD leds looked horrible with it.
Next I tried a 519a 2700k and that’s what I left in there for the time being. The TIR focus is off so I cleaned it up with some DC fix. Thus, it’s pretty floody but at least it looks great. I used the bezel from a SP10 but the reflector is too tall to screw the bezel on all the way. This TIR fits just about perfectly.
The mod wasn’t difficult but a little involved. Remove the stock MCPCB, remove the screw holding in the driver. Unsolder the aux leads from the driver. Install longer leads to the LED. Drill two new holes in the shelf for the leads. Modify a MCPCB with a cutout for the driver retaining screw (make sure you don’t short the DTP to either of the LED traces.
Note that you lose the aux leds when modifying like this (they’re integrated into the stock triple MCPCB). Like I said, this turned out quite floody so I may go back and try to make a pocket thrower like I initially wanted. I might try shortening the SP10 reflector to get the bezel to screw down all the way and use that. I’ll either try the W2 again, a warm XPL HI, or perhaps an XPP 3000k 90 cri or W1, but I’m worried about there being too much current for those last two (I haven’t measured the current).
1 Thank
Good job James C.
The SP10 bezel fits on the TS10. This might let you use the SP10 reflector without having to shorten it.
The current provided by Anduril 2 from the TS10’s driver is probably too high for a White 1 emitter.
I find it too high even for the TS10’s stock triple CSP emitters. I’ve had multiple TS10 emitters burn out or dim in several different TS10 lights. Those emitters simply can’t take turbo even from a lower current Vapcell L10, much less the top-of-the-line high current Vapcell H10.
Fortunately, there is a simple solution: Just set the cap in Anduril to a safe level for the emitters (such as 120/150) and then run Anduril 2 in simple UI mode where the turbo cannot exceed the cap.
Thanks, Firelight2. Sorry I wasn’t clear - I’m already using the SP10 bezel. The SP10 reflector doesn’t fit, even with the SP10 bezel, because the shelf on the TS10 sits higher in relation to the bezel threads than the shelf / bezel on the SP10 (i.e. the bezel needs to screw down further on the TS10).
I just discovered the Sofirn SC31 reflector is the correct height and will fit if I sand down the diameter a little. The beam may have some rings but it should make for a good thrower. Maybe I’ll try that.
Good idea on simple mode. I’ll give all this a try when I can find some free time.
1 Thank
More detailed info about how to limit output in all modes:
How to limit the max output to 120/150 in Advanced Mode
explanation:
In Advanced mode Turbo is enabled to give access to level 150/150. Turbo needs to be turned off so that 2C only goes to ceiling. The Advanced ceiling is set to 120/150 by default, so does not need changing.
From On in Advanced Mode
Do 10H and release on the 4th flash… nothing else. This disables 2C to Turbo.
here is how it is described in the manual:
- 10H: Ramp extras config menu.
- Item 1: Disable manual memory and go back to automatic memory.
(doesn’t matter what value the user enters at the prompt) - Item 2: Configure the manual memory timer.
Sets the timer to N minutes, where N is the number of
clicks. A value of 0 (no clicks) turns the timer off. - Item 3: Configure whether to ramp up after “Off → 1H”.
0: Ramp up after moon.
1: Don’t ramp up, just stay at the floor level.
- Item 4: Configure Advanced UI’s turbo style:
0: No turbo, only ceiling.
1: Anduril 1 style. Ramp → 2C goes to full power.
2: Anduril 2 style. Ramp → 2C goes to ceiling,
or goes to full power if user ramped up to ceiling first.
This value also affects momentary turbo in Ramp and Off modes.
- Item 1: Disable manual memory and go back to automatic memory.
========
How to limit the max output in Simple Mode to 120/120
explanation:
The default Simple Mode ceiling is 150/150. This needs to be changed in both smooth ramping style, and in stepped ramping style. They have separate ceilings.
The 2C for Turbo command is disabled in Simple mode, 2C only goes to ceiling, no changes needed.
10H from Off in Advanced Mode
The ceiling for Simple Mode, is controlled from Advanced Mode. When using 10H, the first blink is for setting the floor, second blink is for ceiling, 3rd blink is for number of ramping steps.
To set the Ceiling for Simple mode, the light needs to be in Advanced Mode, then do 10H from Off.
Release the button on the second blink, the light will be flickering. Then do 1H 3 times, nothing else, just wait while the light finishes flickering to save the new ceiling.
This gives ceiling level 120/150. The process needs to be performed once while in smooth ramping, and again while in stepped ramping.
Awesome, thanks Jon. I didn’t realize you could do that for advanced mode as well.
1 Thank
RRT01 'bout to get nipple surgery:
Got the head of a Fenix PD40R opened. Planning to drop in a high CRI XHP 50.3 HI tonight. Hopefully the domeless emitter will play nice with the smooth reflector.
1 Thank
Grats on opening that Fenix.
In my experience, Fenix lights use TONS of red threadlocker. They’re incredibly difficult to open because of this.
I have a Fenix FD30 that I’d like to mod, but gave up because I couldn’t figure out how to open it.
2 Thanks
You’re putting the bar high for me; a beamshot I could do, but a CREATIVE beamshort… I will be trying to think of one!
Yeah, I don’t know what it is recently, but my last order from AE also came in 11 days!
The beam looks really good crbnfbr!
Thanks, I really don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to beamshots.
The TIR got rid of all the tint shift, so I’m happy with that. Now I just need a more pleasant CCT. This was the first emitter I ordered and reflowed, and I thought 5700K would be nice. Now I prefer a bit warmer, maybe a 400K
edit: the following brilliantly composed post, is totaly offtopic, cause I mistakenly took your reference to 5700K to be about 519a… sorry…
suggest you dedome the 5700K, they become about 4000-4200K
2 Thanks
The 5700 dedomed are gorgeous. I do in Kr4 and I am so happy
1 Thank