That should be a nice light. I have an S2+ triple I made with 2700k 219b’s. Love that light.
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yes, I quite Love them
they reach 380 Lumens on my meter… to me, anything more than 200 lm is gravvy…
What makes this SC21 Mini different from the SC21 Pro, is that the Mini can sustain 300 lumens, regulated for 50 minutes… the Pro is not regulated… and drops below 300 after about 15 minutes:
charts from zeroair reviews of the SC21 Mini and the SC21 Pro models:
Burnt Bezel
Burnt clip
Shorty mode with Wurkkos 20350 tube
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Finished a couple mods today.
First, is my SP40 triple with 4000K 95cri SST-20 emitters. I’m waiting on some 519A emitters to swap in, when they do I’ll take some more pictures of the mod.
. Second, is my formerly black S2+ triple that I attempted to “stonewash” after removing the anodization.
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I swapped a triple from a Wurkkos TS10 into a Convoy T3.
In a previous post I converted a TS10 into a single (I’ll have an update on that soon). So with the extra triple board, I wanted to first try reflowing new LEDs and then throw it in a different host. I couldn’t find a source for those tiny Nichia LEDs but I found “Samsung LH181B 3000K 90CRI SMD” on Digikey. This was my first time reflowing these and they were a little tricky. Good thing they are cheap and I bought extra because I ended up breaking one.
To make this work with a T3 I needed a spacer. I ended up making one out of three 16mm MCPCBs. I sanded off the PCB sides of all three, reduced the diameter on two of them, and soldered them together.
I also had to slightly reduce the diameter of the TS10 MCPCB. Notice one aux LED is missing. That one jumped off the board while I was reflowing and it will never be seen again - which doesn’t matter since they aren’t hooked to anything.
I also used the TS10’s bezel, which is shorter than the T3’s. It’s fortunate that the anodizing matches perfectly. The bezel happens to be an exact fit on the body but if it wasn’t I could have adjusted the thickness of the spacer.
I don’t have measuring equipment, but the duv on these seems a little high for my liking. I added a minus green filter but may try some new LEDs eventually. I also bought the 2700k version of these but those may be destined for a straight swap with another TS10 I have. I don’t yet know if these Samsung LEDs will be able to handle the current. They seem fine on the T3 (1,20,100% mode) on an Eneloop but I haven’t tried a 14500 yet, and who knows how they’ll do in a TS10.
Edit: having now used the light at nighttime, I no longer find the tint objectionable (especially with some minus green). Maybe my daylight-adjusted eyes were playing tricks on me earlier. Assuming these LEDs are as robust as the stock ones, I think they’d be a good option.
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If you ever want to use 3535 emitters, an FWAA mcpcb and optic fit the T3 without modification.
Very cool mod though. I never heard of those Samsung emitters before. Seems like most Samsung emitters are quite green, at least my LH351D tend to be.
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Thanks. I’ve thought about the fwaa setup for other mods but it’s kinda pricey. I’m looking at aliexpress and if you buy two sets of MCPCBs/optics it comes out to $12.50 per light. At that price the cheapskate in me would probably just buy another TS10, convert it to a single, and use that MCPCB/optic for some other light.
When I was browsing digikey for those LEDs
I discovered a whole world of LEDs I’ve never heard of. I’ll report back after I give the 2700k version a try.
Yeah, Lumintop charges way too much if you only want one or two. There was a groupbuy on Reddit and I was able to pick up the mcpcb and optic for $8 + shipping. I ended up not even using them for the project I had in mind, I might as well get a T3 to make a triple.
I spend way too much time browsing Digikey, and way too much money also. Only thing that’d make Digikey better is if they carried Nichia.
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Of course you would… 
Fixing tint shift on Cree’s.
Although gen3 doesn’t have yellow goo around dies unlike gen2, yellow corona is still visible.
So one day by accident while slicing XHP70.3HD i removed a bit of that white silicone around die and to my surprise it was yellow goo under.
Wow, no wonder even gen3 has slight corona around hotspot.
Fast fwd, after months of “i’ll do it next time” i finally got D1K and intentionally ordered 6500k although i’m a CRI baby, so i can finally do the test.
And voila, poor man’s tint shift killer, liquid electric tape around die (very messy but it’s just for a test) and now the beam is perfect!
No more tint shift and that ugly Cree corona.
Before
After
PS ok, what the heck happend to photos???
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I wonder if it affects heat dissipation… 
How…?
I don’t know… having a black rubbery goo on top of a high power LED might make it just a little tad harder to dissipate heat. But I wonder if it is negligible.
congrats on your beam mod experiment
the beam definitely looks like it has nicer color 
I have to use [img [/img] codes (its a link called " BBCode (message boards & forums)" on imgur) to post pics
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Thx Jon. I don’t have nerves for imgur. Trying low res photos now
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Thanks for doing that experiment. It definitely looks like it had an effect. I wonder if instead of applying goo, a special centering gasket could be made that has the same effect. Not sure how that would be done though.
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Anyone with 3d printer could do that gasket and i kinda hope someone will seeing this post…
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