I swapped a triple from a Wurkkos TS10 into a Convoy T3.
In a previous post I converted a TS10 into a single (I’ll have an update on that soon). So with the extra triple board, I wanted to first try reflowing new LEDs and then throw it in a different host. I couldn’t find a source for those tiny Nichia LEDs but I found “Samsung LH181B 3000K 90CRI SMD” on Digikey. This was my first time reflowing these and they were a little tricky. Good thing they are cheap and I bought extra because I ended up breaking one.
To make this work with a T3 I needed a spacer. I ended up making one out of three 16mm MCPCBs. I sanded off the PCB sides of all three, reduced the diameter on two of them, and soldered them together.
I also had to slightly reduce the diameter of the TS10 MCPCB. Notice one aux LED is missing. That one jumped off the board while I was reflowing and it will never be seen again - which doesn’t matter since they aren’t hooked to anything.
I also used the TS10’s bezel, which is shorter than the T3’s. It’s fortunate that the anodizing matches perfectly. The bezel happens to be an exact fit on the body but if it wasn’t I could have adjusted the thickness of the spacer.
I don’t have measuring equipment, but the duv on these seems a little high for my liking. I added a minus green filter but may try some new LEDs eventually. I also bought the 2700k version of these but those may be destined for a straight swap with another TS10 I have. I don’t yet know if these Samsung LEDs will be able to handle the current. They seem fine on the T3 (1,20,100% mode) on an Eneloop but I haven’t tried a 14500 yet, and who knows how they’ll do in a TS10.
Edit: having now used the light at nighttime, I no longer find the tint objectionable (especially with some minus green). Maybe my daylight-adjusted eyes were playing tricks on me earlier. Assuming these LEDs are as robust as the stock ones, I think they’d be a good option.
