And with MT-G2 5000k
Compared with FC-40 5500K (right)
Thx Jon. I don’t have nerves for imgur. Trying low res photos now
1 Thank
Thanks for doing that experiment. It definitely looks like it had an effect. I wonder if instead of applying goo, a special centering gasket could be made that has the same effect. Not sure how that would be done though.
3 Thanks
Anyone with 3d printer could do that gasket and i kinda hope someone will seeing this post…
2 Thanks
SW30 and SW27 are gorgeous LEDs!
1 Thank
Wrote a hwdef for anduril for the boost driver DM11 firmware and made a few custom builds.
@ToyKeeper you’ll probably be able to improve on it in some way, but here’s it so far: Comparing d28b94e60717c528466955720ecc478cc78d8421..b2c714b09a4cca558ee0c43ba978f4d8d5f667ed · SiteRelEnby/anduril2 · GitHub . It’s using set_level_legacy() because I wasn’t sure about writing a hardware-specific set_level but hopefully got some of the changes needed. Also has the previous channel function if you were considering integrating that somewhere, and I also added a new voltage config item to configure where the voltage aux switches from high to low (e.g. I keep it always high on my lights since they use high aux when off anyway).
Also working on handling voltage aux differently in off vs lockout state but that’s still buggy at the moment.
Attiny 85 to 1616 adapter for FW3A
Fantastic moonlight
Upgrade firmware now is more fast
JLCPCB is a serious company
6 Thanks
Got pics of the mod?
I need this!
Thrunite T2. I’ve had the light for a few years but hated the Cree rainbow of the cool white 70.2. I previously tried a GTFC40, then an SST20 4000k / 519a 3000k quad.
Today I tried the slice on the 70.2. That made a slight improvement. I then tried the “dice” but didn’t take it too far because I don’t have a good magnifying glass. Some improvement but still green around the hot spot.
Next… and I knew this wasn’t going to work, I painted the white gasket and around the die with black acrylic paint. Well, it did eliminate the green, but the paint started to smoke on turbo.
So I scraped off the paint and used black marker on the gasket. And it worked! Green just about gone. I didn’t do the most scientific of testing each step but I think just blacking-out the gasket should have a pretty good effect.
1 Thank
I put 519A 3000k and XPP 3000k 90 CRI in a D4V2 dual channel. After playing around with it a bit one of the 519A either died or de-soldered itself (guessing a bad reflow). Oh well, it turned out there was too much current for those XPP anyway.
BTW, I think the XPP would be awesome in a single channel, boost driver, D4V2 (2 amp max, right?). Great tint and CRI with a pretty punchy beam.
How do you tell cathode from anode on those things?
Tester in diode mode
Red is +
Black is -
If the led goes on is the right direction
On mcpcb there are plus and minus for LEDs and you follow
1 Thank
RRT01 tail inserts with 5 trits, made from Ti laminate, flame anodized.
8 Thanks
Darn, they’re totally symmetrical top and bottom? Just have to test every single one?
That’s annoying.
Thanks
1 Thank
If it’s anything like how I do it, test each one, carefully arrange them by polarity, then drop a few as in putting them on the board, test again… second-guess myself on the ones I already placed and test those again. 50/50 chance I get it right the first time and that’s if I’m only making a triple
How did you machine the slots so square in the corners?
2 Thanks
yes, every single one 
and yes that’s annoying but they are only 6… 2 minutes and it’s done
2 minutes for you maybe. I know I’m going to do exactly like @James_C was saying and I’ll end up testing each one at least 3 times lol