Too bad there’s none of those out there 
Single emitter/ Carclo triple
unibody design
~4-6A buck driver depending on led/ 6A+fet in case of triple
14500 or 18650 (for triple)
slim design (added)
What about a d1 w/18350 tube?
I added slim body design to my wishlist, the D4 is imho too bulky for EDC, a D1 even more so 
Ya, I get it. The head is a good size
Yesterday I put together an Emisar DT8 with 5000k Nichia Optisolis emitters.
I ordered the emitters from Eurekatronix, who reflowed them onto a 3535 DT8 MCPCB, the host is a regular DT8 with the 5A driver running KR4-noFET firmware and the floody optics (10613). 8A might have been possible but these emitters are kind of fragile at 1A, so 650mA was a safer choice while still having around 1600lm in turbo (estimated).
The offset emitting area of the optisolis is a perfect match for 3535 when reflowed off center, which made it so I didn’t need a custom PCB to get a nice beam.
The thermal pad would be the negative, so the thermal path was electrically isolated using a thin layer of nail polish, solder mask would’ve been better but I didn’t have any and cutting out kapton tape to the right shape would have been very annoying, the MCPCB also had to be ground slightly on the negative so that the wire touches the core instead of the traces, did it on the (+) because the emitters were accidentally reflowed backwards.
End result is what might be the highest-CRI in a Hanklight that’s been achieved so far, with an Ra of 99 and R9 over 90.
The Opple LM3 reads it as 100cri, with a slight positive DUV but to my eyes it looks exactly like early-afternoon sunlight, to the point it doesn’t feel special because it’s just how everything normally looks.
It doesn’t show up well on beamshots, something odd about my camera but it is an almost-perfect wall of even sunlight, with only a bit of tint weirdness on the edges of the hotspot that might be fixable using different optics.
The same mod could be done to a dual-channel DT8 or D4v2 using the driver with 2.5A for each set of 4 emitters, or the 5A driver for a 8x3535 mule PCB.
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Great job and thanks for the detailed write-up! I’ve thought about using the DTP for some non-standard emitters but haven’t tried it yet. Nail polish is a creative solution.
If you can design PCBs (or know someone who can) I honestly would recommend just getting custom PCBs made, aluminum is very affordable on JLCPCB (less than 20 bucks for the minimum order of 40 pcbs) and should work fine for non-DTP emitters like the optisolis and SFT20.
That’s on my list of things look into. I saw someone on reddit had some 3535 triples for the TS10 made. I’d really like to get something like that.
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Any chance you could do the same for a single-emitter PCB with aux?
It would be pretty nice to make into a small thrower using a SP10 bezel and reflector, and maybe a osram HHL532 so that it works fine in direct-drive (though it needs an isolated thermal path, maybe an aluminum PCB would work better).
Definitely. I rekon we would need to use a tir to capitalize on the optic. I was actually thinking it would be great to make a single emitter thrower out of the ts-10 but hadn’t found the right bezel yet.
These alluuminun PCBs cost me about 2 bucks shipped for 50 of them. I had a coupon but they are cheap to make.
I’m also thinking of making a mule PCB with aux as well. I’d like to do an E17a mule.
The SP10 pro bezel and this optic work well in a single:
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For the mule, I think 9x E21A would fit, like what the fireflies PL09MU has. Would need to drill holes on the sides of the shelf for the wires but that’s relatively easy.
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This is awesome. Thanks. I’m definitely ordering some. Wonder if sofirn would sell just the bezel of the sp10
You can message them and ask, they usually sell parts on request.
Also FYI the SP10 bezel is slightly narrower than the body of the TS10 so it looks a bit off.
Wouldn’t hurt to ask. The Convoy T2/T3 bezel also works. I forget if the Sofirn or Convoy is taller, but they are very close. I could measure tomorrow.
They are m19x1.0 threads. Pretty soon I’ll have a post on making a custom bezel from a brass plumbing fitting.
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I tried the t3, it’s too shallow so I suppose it’s gotta be the sp10 pro. This is exciting.
Doesn’t look too bad.
On the upside, at least you could make a SP10 triple using the TS10 parts, would be pretty nice with the buck-boost driver.