me too… makes me laugh… I just cant take the flat Tir seriously…
I feel the same way about green tint, and Low CRI… I just shake my head in disbelief…
imo the conical pebbled Tir I use in the SC21 Pro produces a Much Cleaner Beam.
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For sure, but it’s also quite a bit taller, right? I’m hoping this flat TIR can have its place in certain situations where you need the thinnest optic possible. It just might require a domed emitter, or perhaps the ability to adjust the air gap… or a layer or two of DC fix, ha.
The beamshot looks nice! Do you like the dedomed 519a in the D2 with frosted optic?
yes…
using a domed LED is the best we can do w the flat fresnel style Tir. I do think a smaller airgap might help w the DeDomed but I have not tried.
yes, very much, I was very pleasantly suprised by how good (lower DUV) the tint is.
It would! Certain optic/emitter combos are simply better than others. 519A with 10507 is a famously good one, it gives a large and perfectly round hotspot. And then there are other optics like the Wurkkos TS25 quad optic that can turn a 519A green.
I realize I mis-typed–I meant to name 10509 (wide frosted) as an example of an atrocious TIR! I’ll go back and edit the post. Try that with 519A 5700K domed, and one would see what I mean. I got both 10509 and 10511 from LEDSupply.
I can imagine the 10511 being ok with the 219B, which has the least angular tint shift of any domed emitter. For some strange reason Carclo has 2 clear options in the quad series; the 10622 and 10611 appear to have the same design (small central convex lens) and I think it’s what 10511 is based on, just with frosting. The 10507/10621 has the other design with a large central convex lens, which does a good job controlling angular tint shift.
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I swapped a Sofirn SP33S from 5000K low CRI XHP70.2 HD to 5700K 90CRI XHP70.3 HI today.
Since I did not want to desolder the original LED and keep my option to back-swap, I slightly modified a 20mm star from Simon to fit. It’s not ideal, but does kinda fit with 2 edges slightly filed off.
The original screws have slightly too small heads and don’t hold the PCB too well, but it works. Will replace with wider head screws at a later point.
Here’s some comparison pictures of the beam on a white door. All pics taken with 4000K white balance locked in the camera. The brighter spot in the upper left corner of the spot is an artifact created by reflections, it’s not actually present in any of the 3 beams.
SP33S XHP70.2 HD 5000K low CRI
SP33S XHP70.3 HI 5700K high CRI
Comparison: S2+ 519A 5700K dedomed
I guess I now know why sofirn never sold this light with 70.3 HI update… The beam looks kinda odd. I like the smaller hotspot and hence more throw, I love the fact that it is finally not green anymore. But those weird rings in the spill… Not ideal. Guess that was to be expected from using a reflector not made for this LED. Still hoped it’d be better.
The LED itself is awesome though - Simon got great tint-free and tint-shift-free cold high CRI 70.3 HI emitters.
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Might be worth trying different centering gasket thicknesses. Like add some Kapton layers on mcpcb under the gasket to see if raising the reflector makes a difference. Lowering the reflector isn’t as easy. Either sanding the current gasket or buying thinner ones.
Nice to know that Simon’s bin is good.
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All HI swaps tonight. CSLPM1 in an SP32A. It had an XP-L HI but I’m aiming tighter.
Then an SFT40 for the SC31 Pro, which apparently, is hitting higher amps than it likes. The original SST40 had no issue.
I’ll use a lower performance battery to save it.
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The SFT40 surface is very fragile, and any dirtyness will be promptly carbonized when it gets to full power. It might be flux residue that was burned, but it ended up burning some of the phosphor too. Happened with me, it’s not an over current issue.
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This applies to mostly all domeless (HI) LEDs.
Domed LEDs are better in this regard, due to the silicone dome and less luminance on the LED surface.
Thank you. I have done other installs with preflowed emitters without an issue. Those were from Simon but this one was ordered from Kaidomain. This emitter isn’t further blackening.
Is isopropyl alcohol safe for HI emitter cleaning?
Another question: was this a 5000K SFT-40?
I bought one 5000K from Kai but this SC31 one is a 6500K. The 5000K on 20mm is going into an SD2 with one of Kai’s 8A, 22mm drivers. I have another SFT40 in my L2 driven by a MTN FET+1 and it works without issue so a dirty surface is more certainly the culprit.
I recently discovered a damaged LES at almost maximum current while testing a SFT-40 5000K. This happened to me only with the 5000K one, not with 3000 or 6500 K.
The LES on my SFT-40 looks almost the same as in your case. In general it is unlikely that flux residue is present on pre-soldered LEDs (I never encountered it), but maybe you got simply unlucky…
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Isopropyl alcohol is safe but it will not remove the black residue, and if you rub it you run the risk of further damaging the phosphor layer. I would left it as it is, what should’ve burn is already burnt.
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However, as black surfaces heat up quickly, especially with such high radiation densities as with a HI-LED, there is always a risk that the burnt areas will tend to become larger…
Unfortunately I would say, such an LED is damaged and shouldn’t be used for longer, especially if a reliable light source is needed.
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I would recommend to swap the damaged LED with a new one.
And never touch the LES!
- Baked Convoy S21D @300°C for 90 minutes.
- Heat-treated SS bezel and clip with a butane torch for 5-10 mins.
Turned out nice - really liking the colour
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Wrapped with aluminium foil or not?