Are these the 5000K or 6500K versions?
For me the 5000K version seems to be more green at low power than the 6500K version.
The funny thing is that I have two SC18 and two WK03 all with the same dye.
I have four SC31PRO and six Convoy all with the SST40 and the greenish tint in all.
Only the Sc18 and WK03 do not have the tint.
As you say maybe it’s the TIR I just took some very quick photos without precision 
I don’t know if it shows in the photo but I see the greenish tint come out a bit between the TIR of the SC18.
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They are all 6500K
I just took some pictures with SST40 5000K lights in this case I used a WK03 5000K and the SC31Pro 5000K.
It is not appreciated from 6500k to 5000k much because the camera is adjusted is not a reliable test I have thrown it quickly, but we focus on the green tint in the Wurkkos is seen less and the SC31Pro is more diffused to be 5000K in the captures is little appreciated.
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Wasnt today but I finally stuffed an sfn55.2 into a convoy s21b with the 12A FET. Took awhile because I messed up the first 2 reflectors trying to ream a bigger opening and had to order more.
I still need to bypass the springs but I’m not too impressed with it so far. It’s bright but not a whole lot brighter than my s21b’s with the 6V5A or even 6V4A drivers and xhp50.3’s.
Maybe a 70.3 would be better for this. Anybody know if the 6V8A driver fits an s21b?
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Linear driver vs FET driver. I’m assuming, without actually checking what drivers they have lol.
No low current green tint with a FET because it’s never low current. No tint shift through the ramp. Or much less anyways
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Certainly worth giving it a try since it should match better than black.
Here’s a great post on baking flashlights: Baked / Heat Colored Convoy Pictures
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Looking closely I see that the green shade comes out on SC18 and WK03 around the edges and not in the center.
It seems more for the TIR that’s why you see in the photo a greenish ring and the white center where the TIR is.
It is only a hypothesis.
I always see the green no matter the light level.
But I don’t care because in the middle of the forest you don’t notice it.
The doubt was if they are fake those used in the SC18 and WK03 to reduce costs.
If they are really fake (they aren’t) then every single original SST40 should be replaced by these fakes. Reflector geometry can also influence the tint, I’ve had 5000K SST40 that looked alright when installed on my SP36 but the same LEDs looked terribly green on my SC31 Pro because on the SP36 the green was spread through the beam while on the SC31 Pro the green was condensed on the hotspot. That might be the case for the SC18/WK03, and a purely FET driver can hide the green at lower levels (don’t know if that’s the case for the SC18/WK03 as i never disassembled one of them).
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True, except, well…unless it’s really green. I literally have a post on here somewhere from like a year ago of a picture I took of an sft70 in a forest, complaining that it was making the trees look too green lol
Im still mad about it. It was literally greener than the trees. It made the trees greener. It out-greened trees. Trees!
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An experiment: remove the TIR from the WK03 and put it on the SC31. It may not fit so you might have to just hold it in place with the bezel off. You should be able to get an idea if the TIR is causing the improved tint.
TIRs can definitely improve tint, but there are lots of variables. I think one reason why is many TIRs don’t capture the extreme side emissions of certain LEDs like a reflector can.
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I recently got a stainless steel FW3A from JLHawaii. It came with an old, original, 1+7+FET driver and Anduril 1, so I decided it should be modded with a more efficient Lume1 driver and Anduril 2. To get hold of a Lume1 driver, I had to get hold of an FW3X.
The FW3X came with Anduril 1 installed, so the first step was to upgrade to Anduril 2. Problem was that two flashing pads were the wrong way around, so I had to modify the pin layout on my Hank flashing kit to be able to use it to flash the FW3A Lume1 Anduril 2 hex.
After unsoldering the various wires, I was able to remove the Lume1 driver from the FW3X and the 1+7+FET driver from the stainless steel FW3A.
I wanted to add a Lume1 AUX board, but unfortunately I managed to damage the red AUX pad on the Lume1 driver board, so that it was impossible to attach a wire to it. Therefore, the stainless steel FW3A mod is only a driver upgrade without adding AUX. It was very, very fiddly and took many hours, but I finally managed to get the Lume1 driver installed in the stainless steel host.
Put back together, it all worked and now I have an efficient stainless steel FW3A.
I also had an aluminium FW3A with a degraded driver (Lumintop put in an inferior driver in later production runs), so I decided use the 1+7+FET driver left over from the stainless steel light to “restore” the aluminium one to a more original condition.
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Hi @Jeffgoldblum. Curiously, what did you use to ream the reflector opening larger, and was the issue caused by a lack of sharpness?
FYI: you can add single channel aux to this driver with a firmware update and a tiny bit of soldering.
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Ya that probably didnt help. User error, impatience, wrong tools, etc.
I don’t have a tool that’s perfectly sized for this and I’m not going to buy one, I have lots that are close enough, but I wasn’t careful with them.
Not saying it’s the best tool for the job if youre going to buy something specifically for this, but I ended up having the most luck using a countersink drill bit (one I used looks exactly like these ones) on a die grinder, full speed, 20k+ rpm, going just a little touch at a time, with a pinhole in a water bottle for coolant, to remove most of the material, and just cleaned it up by hand at the end.
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I like knowing which tools and techniques that others have successfully used for increasing the size of reflector openings, so thank you for the detailed information @Jeffgoldblum!
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The coating is so delicate eh? I used a cotton buffing ball on one to try and clean up a little scuff I made. It’s a thing they use for polishing watch faces and jewelry. Huge mistake. Instantly destroyed lol
The more annoying upgrade(?) in a long time! Added a PM1 and Convoy 8A buck driver to my throwiest light.
The retaining ring didn’t fit over the 17mm to 20mm adapter with the tiny amount of solder used to attach the driver. At least I had a butane torch to heat the brass ring for pre-soldering. The inserted battery is enough to maintain the ground to the host. I can measure over 7.3A on a Molicel 21700 but it’s difficult to get up to 6A on anything else.
This PM1 is ringy in the L2 but outside, it’s ok.
The MCPCB from Kaidomain was something different with built-in insulation…
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Do you need the solder? If you have the adapter? Should be ok without it, no?
Sanding down the gasket, if you can, should help with the ring I think
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It’d be nice if I didn’t. The come-with retaining ring (which has a lot of wear) will hold the adapter but the driver slips through necessitating the solder between the ring and driver. I tried a few other adapters but they don’t fit the threads. I suppose I wound up with the same scenario of the driver just ‘floating’.
I’ll see if RMM has any extra retaining rings or ask Simon for the same. Perhaps I’ll just order a 20mm bucker.
I’m having trouble picturing this. You have two pieces with the adapter, right? And you have the driver between them like a sandwich?
Oh, is it just the wrong size adapter? Like a 20mm to 22mm? I don’t know what size driver the L2 uses