Distilled water poured over, compressed air to clear out water.
Sirius9, I have an SBT-90 on a 1” square copper mcpcb that I will probably never use. It came with the kit I bought from Old-Lumens. I’ve tried looking up exactly what it is but can’t find info on it based on the numbers on the board. It’s white, without putting it in a reflector I can’t be sure if it’s 6500K or 5700K. I would venture to guess it’s 5700K. These are rated at a 13.5A max and around 2300 lumens, depending on binning.
In case you don’t know, the SBT-90 doesn’t have a dome, it’s like the SBT-70 with a glass window over the die instead of a dome, only it’s a larger square die as compared to the round die of the 70.
Well, easiest/safest way would be to just return it to genuine specification with SST-90 LED, this is the option with least unpredictable situations, other than that I have MTG2 that should have beam shape closest to SST-90, I think, XHP70 that would be significantly more powerful and FX-30 driver from Simon to follow it as well as XHP 35 and LD - 51 driver for it…
I expect to have SR 90 in hands tomorrow and I will see what can I do with leds and drivers that I have before ordering and waiting a month for new stuff.
I am familiar with SBT-90 and its construction, it is similar to PT-54 no dome just glass window over the die, I remember seeing picture from a fellow BLF-er -> SBT emitter with broken glass, but major “problem”of this LED is its price, ~US$70 will not fly.
I will post some pictures once I have the flashlight disassembled…
The price is not an issue if I give it to you. 
Check it out, see what you can do… if you need this SBT-90 it’s yours. I’ll re-flow it onto a round or star mcpcb if you need me to.
Thanks DB :+1:
will see what can I do when it arrives.
I am looking forward disassembling it 
I modded a Luckysun F3X today. I’m fairly proud that I got it working so I made a separate thread: Mod: LuckySun F3X
Got the 10158 Carclo catadioptric optic from mtnelectronics today. Just playing around with it on the bench at this point, but it looks to me like it can’t be made to focus properly for the LEDs I’ve tried.
Here is a pic looking into the optic from about 50cm away. Dedomed lattice bright LED. I’ve played a bit with focusing it using different sized cardboard spacer pieces around the LED on the MCPCB that the optic sits on. The outer lit portion is good; I think I can get most all of this to be focused. But there is that ring of dark that I can’t seem to even begin to get rid of with different spacer thicknesses.
Here is a picture of the back of it. It looks almost like there is a mistake in the curvature closer to the center; you can see the distortion associated with it in the reflection of the camera lens. Looking at it by eye, it looks like sort of an abrupt change in curvature. I wonder if the dark ring is associated with it.
The beam looks like an image of the die, like an aspheric lens light, but with a small corona.
The report here mentions how proper focus is sensitive to the exact LED used. Maybe that could be it.
So, I’m pretty disappointed so far. Has anyone else got one of these to play around with?
For those not familiar, here is a picture showing how it works.
Read your thread. Looks like a nice light made much nicer now 
Thanks Mike! This F3X has he same things as the D80: it looks ugly with its abrupt head but the feel in your hand is so right!
I have the F3X on the way, ordered it about a week ago. Nice to know it takes modding well… 
The 60mm catodioptic is a PITA. I have one, played around with it some and haven’t gotten around to machining a head for it. Or spacer/adapter, whatever. Seems like it’s going to be a waste of time.
Got the copper pills in from Hoop today for the Convoy S2+. So I built a new driver, FET+1, A6 firmware, SIR800 MOSFET on the driver with 20 ga Teflon coated wires. Reflowed the Noctigon to the copper pill and used XP-L W2 2B emitters. As of the last reading I got 13.55A from a Sony VTC6 making 3667.35 lumens. Wicked little Blue tube light!
Did you see that dark ring like in my pic when you were playing around?
Here lately, you’ve been anti-single emitter, lol.
Here lately, you’ve been anti-single emitter, lol.
It might seem that way, but I did the C8 with XP-L W2 2B at 2028 lumens, I’ve built several XP-G3 lights and Nichia 219C, small lights that just needed a better emitter and a power bump. Lights like the Eagle Eye X7, the Nitecore MH20GT, the Nitecore TM06 was fun, I swapped the XHP-70 out for an MT-G2. Haven’t modified the SRT6. All single emitter lights.
So much has been done here, I don’t necessarily post something that was just a simple emitter swap, like the MH20GT getting a Nichia 219C.
I modded the L2 with a sliced XHP-35, the L6 with a de-domed XP-G2 S2 0D and Buck driver with 2 cells, and rebuilt the Courui D01 with the copper pill and SBT-70 when I sold it. Got that one doing over 1900 lumens after it was sold.
After a few hundred it gets to be about mo powah I guess, and that’s easier with big Quads and Triples.
Always doing something, y’all don’t want to hear about all of em. lol
Received today mentioned Olight SR90, this poor baby is in rough shape let me tell you, DB you better sit down before clicking on this photos
SST-90, after misuse
looks to me like it was not soldered properly
after SST-90 someone thought to use this emitter, this one went thru hell also, literally
butchered centering rign:
at the moment, “working” led, XML2, placed about 5-6 milimeters under the reflector opening surface, shape of the beam was just garbage
too much heat and you get lifted copper pads from mcpcb
and now the biggest joke, this is just sad
hopefully, original driver should be alive
On other hand battery pack is dead, charge indicator does not light up, ~0V on contacts, when charger is connected It reads 8.48V on LED side contacts but as soon as I disconnect the charger that drops to ~1.4V and then slowly to 0.4V. I removed locking rings from both sides of the battery pack but it seams that battery PCB-s are either tightly pressed in or glued so I was not able to push it out.
Btw. I spared you of greasy fingerprints inside the reflector :person_facepalming:
This light did not have happy life, but better days are coming
That poor flashlight. I actually feel bad for it. 
I bought 4 of them to test out too, I was hoping to be able to use it with an XHP70 but the dome didn’t fit in the lens since the light entrance is actually shaped like a cone.
I shaved the dome off my XHP70 and it worked a lot better, but the lens still sits about 1-2mm above the LED due to the layer of material still on top of the LED.
Currently it gives a fairly nice round spot with little spill, but nowhere near the concentration I was expecting, my aspheric lenses are still better.
The catadioptric however collects a lot more light from the LED than the aspherics do, so it might make a decent mid-range flood light rather than thrower.
With smaller LEDs like my XP-G2 and XM-L2 that do fit inside the cavity the projected image is much smaller and more “square shaped” like the LED die, but still not as good for lux as an aspheric.
Not sure if I will end up using this for a flashlight, but it was a cool experiment nonetheless and now there is more information about them on the internet, since before I had not seen anyone try to use one.
PS. I was the one who asked the owner of MTN electronics to try to get some in stock, I had pretty high hopes 
TLDR: higher light efficiency than any reflector or lens, almost no spill unlike reflectors, but beam not as tight as an aspheric lens.
Sirius, my SR90 is using a secondary battery tube with 2 32650’s in it. I remove one of the pcb retaining rings and lift the board to get the cells out to charge them. I have an 18ga Turnigy wire coming up from the base to bring ground to the top. It’s a bit of a PITA but I get more capacity and more power than the stock battery pack. I never had the charger, only the 12V car plug, and it was horribly slow anyway. I still have that original battery tube/pack, the charge indicator lights work and all that. Might have to send you a package after all…
When you tried the XPG2 or XML2, did you happen to look in the front and did it have that dark ring near the center?
I had high hopes for this also. If it can’t be focused properly with the LEDs we use that will definitely kill the lux. Also there are two reflections instead of one which will hurt the efficiency some; manufacturer estimated the efficiency at 70%.
It won’t beat an aspheric of the same diameter in lux because of the metallized circle in the center (reduces effective area), but maybe it gets close? Did you measure the lux with this optic?
No I did not look in the front, maybe I should review it some time and record the details and measure lux and all that stuff. I know with the XHP70 the whole reflector was filled.