CRX
There is no gasket? Or I did not see it?
Gasket? There are o-rings on the body and one around the reflector.
He mean plactic spacer between led and reflector.
Right, no there isnāt one. The MCPCB sits in a groove in the pill with the reflector on top with kapton tape disc covering.
slowly CRX reveals his secrets! :partying_face:
Ah, I missed the link, thanks, very nice conversion of a good looking light! 
What light is this?
A new ābudgetā Nitecore, the MT22A, I like the concept: 2xAA placed parallel in the light (electrically in series), modest output (260lm), mostly made of plastic with alu head, robust, no bells and wistles, supersimple UI. A flashlight to really use IMO.
Modded? I can barely keep my lights even working, actually carrying an EDC light every day, is too hard ā¦
Talking to you:
DQG Tiny 18650 IV ( 2 of them broke, unfixable )
XTAR WK42 (nice light, very small, 16340, but an inductor came unglued and could not be fixed, i āmodded itā for no-driver, direct switch action via twisting the body)
Manker U11 (various problems, all overcome by hacks, light still works)
another 16340 light i converted to direct-battery drive due to some electronics failure
wle
At the end of the day it is not of interest how often you did fall down, but how often you stood up again.
And donāt look at me for proof, but last week I actually managed to revive a light. By accident, of course.
Inductance can be replaced by any other approximately the same value (3.3-10ĀµH)
But still there will be a low-frequency PWM
Iāve already remade my own
I made a driver from Tamagotchi
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showpost.php?p=881876&postcount=20
They basically have problems with the button. Bad soldering. The contact falls off. Also fixable. But to untwist it is not so simple, glued.
the wk42 was a nightmare to work on, i thought i could neither find a suitable part, nor solder it on where it was supposed to go
plus i got tired of that button-wire-twisting issue, too
and the pwm was an annoyingly low frequency, as you pointed out,
plus i hated the UI (all roads lead to STROBE STROBE STROBE )
and the light color
but i liked it being small
so i direct-drived it, planning to only use cr123a batteries
wle
Inserting the driver back is not easy. :person_facepalming: 
On my own I accidentally broke the inductance. So I decided to replace the driver with a new oneā¦
Itās a stupid design. As I was later convinced, it is assembled from the side of the LED.
Knock out the bulkhead between the driver and the LED star.
Insert the driver easily. Clog back the bulkhead. Put the LED and optics.
Are there any issues with drilling out the center led pads on the quad board? Iām thinking of trying this method because the copper heatsink/spacer I have already has a hole in the center.
You just need to remeber that board is not solid (multi-layer) and it is mostly copper. You need to make good point with punch, and after use at least two drill sizes - 1.5ā¦2.5mm and 3.5ā¦4.5mm. Copper is not very hard to drill, but please forget how did you drill steel or other materials. You need sharp drill bit (it may be low quality, but must have good edges - you may need to file them). Use low speed, and apply enough force down. If you make it right shavings is long, even single - from start to the end of drilling. After bigger bit you will need to use some reamer to fix small chips and edge places where upper layer of copper started to flake off. After all is done you need to test board short circuit with dmm.
as said, No. On the XP32 MCPCB the center pad is a separate circuit from the triple outer pads.
I prefer to solder the XP32 directly to the copper spacer. Once centered and cooled I drill from the back using the hole in the spacer as the center guide. This will peel up that layer of circuit for the center pad and I just peel that away to eliminate the sharp edges from cutting wires. I also use a bit that is larger than the hole and drill lightly on the face of the board. This will bevel the edge, again reducing the possibility of cutting into a wire. Also my personal prefrence is to use 18 or 20 AWG fine stranded silicone jacket wire. This usually means enlarging the hole in the spacer again. I do not use jumpers on the XP32ā¦ I solder the wires to the jumper pads eliminating the need for jumpers. Here is a pic.
Thatās awesome. Thanks guys 