Brought the little Reaper in on Aug 11 so the sun wouldn’t burn it any more, looking like this…
Built the new COB fixture and set it up on Aug 21, looking like this…
And today, after just 5 days under the COB…
You can calculate how many kWh a scoville unit costs :nerd_face:
Hahahah, probably won’t be much, dividing anything by 2.4 Million greatly reduces the average…
I disassembled the groupbuy Thorfire VG10 with multi level MCPCB and decided to use it as a host for a triple Nichia build. I used Carlco 10507 optics and Noctigon triple XP20 MCPCB. The driver will be a BLF A17DD and The tailcap already finished with lighted tailcap board.
Here is the spacer if someone else want to make it. The conical section maybe need to move up a little because on mine I need to correct with a dremel to able to twistthe bezel fully. So on the left the 7,5mm is better at 7,4 and instead of the 10mm make it 10,1mm.
ZozzV6, where did you get the lighted tailcap board?
Got a chance to do some work on my D4. Replaced mcpcb and leds to a mtn quad board and 319a 4000k leds from Clemence. I put orange tritium in the 4 posts on the quad optics and to finish off the mods, a carbon fiber vinyl wrapped 20mm x 2mm n52 magnet on the tail.
Please resize the images.
Done.
Thanks, I need to modify an Astrolux lighted switch and was curious. I have 0850 resistors and LEDs (and a replacement Omten switch) on order.
Nice of you to share the layout Zozz, I was looking at making a quad with that VG10 or the M8 from Jaxman, decided on the M8 with a 35mm Quad CUTE-4. Already fitted the optic, just have to make the spacer… wanted the larger optic for it’s superior performance even if it’s more difficult to build needing individual 10mm MCPCB’s.
o_O TK makes SM cool
Spaghetti Monster
SM stands for state machine, or?
Have you already a thread for SM?
Ideas / what I would like:
click&hold
Ramping like Narsil (off starts from MOON, …)
1x
Single click for ON and OFF
2x
double click shortcut to MAXIMUM
3x
triple click
I prefer to have here the blinkies.
It’s easy to remember 3 looks like B in blink or in battery.
Here are all the strobe modes, beacon and battery voltage.
To cycle to the next mode I would use a double click.
I want an option, so that the Batteries is first.
I never use any other strobe mode.
4x
four clicks
shortcut to switch between seamless ramping and to have few steps in ramping. eg.
stop at max. 7135, stop at 500lm, stop at max thermal sustainable level.
So ramping stops at this levels and you had to do a click&hold again to go to the next level
5x
Lock out on/of
This 5x or 6x is fare more usefull as a longpress
6x
Lock out on/of
I guess it would be a good thing if people can choose the lock out command
1x, 2x, 3x
single click followed by a double click followed by a triple click
Manker H02 and H03 has this as a lock out signal.
I gues this is the most secure command, but maybe a bit tricky to execute. But it can free the 5x or 6x command.
Yes, FSM = Finite State Machine or Flying Spaghetti Monster.
Or, in this case, Flashlight Spaghetti Monster. Because it takes all the “spaghetti code” involved in my older e-switch firmwares and puts it into a little box you don’t have to care about. They were messy and fragile and hard to modify and hard to port to different hardware, and I avoided e-switch lights for years because of the complexity, so … I fixed that.
However, it does add some significant overhead in terms of minimum ROM size. It doesn’t fit on tiny13 at all, and even the smallest example barely fits on tiny25. It’s recommended to use tiny45 or tiny85.
OTOH, once the toolkit is loaded into ROM, the rest of the code ends up significantly smaller… so I’m able to fit a lot of features onto tiny85 and still have room left.
Not yet. I plan to pretty soon though, when I’m ready to release the code.
Most of that is done already… and then some. 
Finally swap my Jetbeam Jet I MK with Nichia 219C 5000K R9050, nice tint. The Jet I become usable again love the size, quality, and mode spacing but not the XP-G2 cool tint.
I just modded an old Eagletac M3C4 into this:
original driver was broken, so i used an another eagtac driver - c3300 extreme4 from g25c2
Nice looking mod. Did the triples and optics fit in without spacers?
Initially, he looked like this:
Then I decided to grind the upper part and cut the thread.
The lower part is also bored to install the MCPCB, the height approached perfectly
I got sort of donut hole with mine can you confirm this?
Did the same but with this - 219C-R9050-D240-4000k. Easy enough to do and definitely makes the light much better. Loving the Jet1 now.
Yes, but only when very close to white wall. At 3 feet the beam is normal although not as good as the original XP-G2.