What did you mod today?

Does it not melt with 8000lm?

Updated the UltraFire UF-10 with a Nichia 319ATE SM655 D440 6500K emitter for a nice hexagonal spot.
MTN FET driver, 16mm Noctigon, reverse clicky, 16500 cell.

319A Version rough numbers:
5.2A Max
Flood - 1036lm
Zoom - 392lm
Lux - 17000
Lux - 900
Throw - 260m

I had originally modded this light with an XP-L HI but always wanted to try the Nichia under a plano aspheric, I like it better now :+1:

Although the camera doesn’t pick it up quite right the centre picture gives a rough idea of spot pattern.
It doesn’t quite reach the sky and has lost some throw with the new emitter but is still not bad for a compact wee pocket rocket :wink:

XP-L HI Version rough numbers:
4.5A Max
Flood - 1120lm
Zoom - 406lm
Lux – 29000
Throw – 340m

That looks amazing.
Next best thing to a circular spot is a hexagon :smiley:

thought about covering the cone with aluminum foil?
getting more light to the side

Yeah the hex shape is something different to the usual square.
MT-G2 would look great too.

I got ToyKeeper’s Andúril UI into a Meteor… the hard way.

Squeamish Meteor fans should brace themselves before clicking. :open_mouth:

Wee cousin’s 21st today so I made a brass tritium key fob as part of a present. Going to the party later, damn I feel old :laughing:

Trit tube looks great CRX. Nicely done, spacing looks perfect. Really like the inlay glow spinner too. Hope he has it for the 20+yr trit life.

I was messing with a Convoy BD06 today. added a couple 380mA 7135, bypassed the springs and swapped emitter from 1A tint to a 20mm Noctigon XM-L2 T6 4C.
The T6 came in a Red s2+ I grabbed at a cheaper than host price. Kinda just bought it for the emitter and maybe another project someday.
BD06 is a nice 26650 light and has the 12 mode Biscotti. Has rings in wall shot but not bad for something to use out side. Measures 3.65A at the tail on my DMM and 4.15V KeepPower black. Not sure why its slightly higher than the total of the 7135’s but I’ll take it.

I really like how the charging circuit has indicator green/red that show in the main reflector, love that aspect of this and have been wanting to get one for a while now. Just always seem to be spending dough on other things.

Nice work, nice shots of the driver too. I bumped power output on one for a friend so I got a chance to see how this one works and it made me want one! :smiley:

I think it has been said before that 350mAh 7135 regulation chips will many times come in around 360 or 365, it’s the higher than that select ones that they call 380mAh. So you are more likely to get more from the 350mAh labeled chips than the average 380, if that makes any sense. That would explain why you’re seeing 3.65A instead of 3.56A. Dunno…

Thanks DB on the 7135 info. For wires I went 22 on the driver spring and 20 AWG on all the others. Plenty of room in there.
There was a deal on the BD06 last week for $19. Worth every penny. I like the build of it for the most part. Plastic spacer under the driver retaining ring could use some redesign to omit. But the 105 minimalist driver that still charges is nice and still using the 1288 as a side SW was a surprise. Side SW push is stout with the little extra spring under the button. Don’t see it getting turned on by accident even if in a tool bag. There are some rings in the spill but a pretty nice spot from the XM. This thing could certainly take a beating for years. With the extra 7135’s it gets warm in hand, I don’t think thermals (timer or sensor) are needed. . I have grown fond of the 26650 and tube size in hand.

Do you mind telling us how do you disassemble the board?
I also have this torch and would like to do some mods but the board seems to be glued.

wondering if anyone can help, I’ve just done a spring bypass on the driver and tail switch springs on my BLF A6. I now only have high mode, it wont switch to any other modes. Does anyone have any insight as to why this might be??



That usually happens when the led-minus connection touches the body somewhere, thus bypassing the driver entirely and the led is directly connected to the battery. It can happen somewhere on the driver board or in the wire (insulation damaged and exposed wires touching the body), or even on the ledboard.

thanks for the info Djozz

I’ve checked all over, resoldered + and - to the led star, checked the wires and nothing sticks out as abnormal. mkght have to try a diffent driver see if i damged the last one somehow.

Test parts out of light. Just dont let the LED lit for more than a second if it is really gone DD.

My guess is the LED MCPCB is twisting as you tighten the head. With the MCPCB twisting it is pinching a wire in the through hole. Sometimes silicone heals the cuts so it is hard to find without bending the wire to open the cut. BLF, Noctigon and similar boards are nice but the edges are sharp.
To help stop the twisting I lube the Oring on the lens and push on the lens and reflector with a thumb as I tighten the bezel.

Also make sure the wire insulation wraps up and over the MCPCB to the solder pad. As I solder the wire I push the Iron on the wire to flatten the connection where the space is limited. Solder blob on the pads may be touching reflector as you tighten it.
And not to be insulting but you do have the plastic spacer around the LED to reflector? I have lost them during assembly or put a light together and then saw the spacer sitting on the bench.

Thanks, VWpieces,

all good ideas, have checked everything you mentioned. I did find the MCPCB was twisting as I tightened but couldn’t find any cuts in the silicon wire. when I had the bezel off I placed the reflector on with the spacer and the solder wasn’t touching but resoldered and flattened out as you mentioned. Put it back together but still, high mode only :cry:

No offence taken at all mate, im fairly new to this so any suggestions are appreciated.

ive got some drivers on the way so will replace and test when they arrive.

My first guess is that you fried the FET with heat from the solder while doing the spring mod. Whenever working on any of these drivers try not to let the driver get too hot for too long. If your solder doesn’t stick the first time let it cool down for a bit before trying again.

Thanks vw :beer:

The original mod was done a while ago so I can’t remember for sure but the LED MCPCB is probably glued with some cheap compound that should come off fairly easily by twisting slightly with long nose pliars in the wire holes.
There might be a plastic retainer ring in there too.

Sunwayman P25C converted to triple xp-g2 s4 2b on a noctigon. Carclo 10507 and stock driver.