CRX? What can anyone say but Wow!?
Thanks mate, I had been wanting to change that emitter for ages but don’t have a hot air station so didn’t want to attempt it before. Old JB weld & duct foil does it again 
@CRX, have you tried using a skillet for reflow jobs?
I’ve tried it on a fake XML T6, and it did the job very well. Although I don’t have a replacement emitter. Would a 3000k XML2 be good though?
On the lathe, I have a 5” chuck with 3 jaws. The jaws have a tongue-and-groove to the back side that slots them into the chuck and there are circular “gears” that drive the jaws in the chuck when you turn the T wrench. This allows each jaw to move simultaneously with the other jaws and also makes them self centering. There are two sets, an inner and outer set. The outer set has smooth ends on each of the sections and are squared away, while the inner set can be used as a sort of spreader to clamp inside a tube edge, but they wouldn’t spread really far before falling out of the chuck. That said, I had to cut something yesterday, a large thick walled section of pipe, that was beyond my chuck’s abilities. The 1” wide section of pipe could actually slip OVER my chuck! So I used the outer end of the teeth, the squared face with no teeth on it, to hold this large cross section of Sch 40 Aluminum pipe. Pretty hairy endeavor! It went well and I managed to get it done but it was pretty stressful. lol
Here’s a pic of my filthy lathe with a bar of 4.25” Aluminum clamped in. See the jaws sticking out? These smooth flat ends are what I used to hold the even larger 5”+ Sch 40 Aluminum pipe! The are the second set of jaws, I used the inner set (the normal set) as they have steps that took them away from my inside threading job) Yes, this is a very large bezel to hold a lens on a light. A 130mm lens… 
I got threads cut and was shaping it down some when it started wobbling… I stopped just before it came loose and went airborne. lol Dropping a glass lens and breaking it is one thing, spending hours shaping something on the lathe and having it fly loose and get gouged by the teeth of the jaws and the cutting tool or impacted on the concrete floor, disastrous!
PS: I found that by leaving it semi-dirty it doesn’t rust up. Try to keep it clean and rust grows on it like weeds! It was exceptionally dirty in the above pic because I’d been working on it for 2 days and hadn’t cleared all the chips and shavings yet. lol
That’s a clever trick CRX. Hope I can remember it for if the occasion arises.
Dale, do you have a big build you’ll be sharing soon? :nerd_face:
I have a small aluminium block that I normally use but the problem with the DQG clicky AAA is the integrated board has components on both sides so you really need a hot air station or hold a soldering iron on the centre contact from underneath to reflow.
Here’s a pic of the jb weld potted components sanded down a bit after the swap.
It really depends what you like, 3000K is too warm for me, I like 4000-6000K usually.
Great chat on CRI & stuff here 
PinkPanda, I just rebuilt my 6th scratch build upon acquiring an even larger reflector.
So DBC-06.7 is now v2 with a 124mm reflector in place of the 97.5mm one it was first built with. I got lucky, again, and acquired a large ® reflector. It now does 1.05Mcd (50M lux test) for 1.2734 miles throw. Still using the single 32650 with FET+1 Bistro driver but it’s got an 26mm MaxToch MCPCB re-flowed to the 35mm copper pill and carrying an XP-L V3 3A HI. This is good for 6.42A at 1538.7 lumens out the front.
The widest point on the bezel measures 5.35” or 135mm. It’s beastly, for sure!
I just realized, the LOC (Light On Cash) parts bin build partly visible on the right got fitted with a Convoy L6 reflector BECAUSE the Courui reflector wasn’t being used at the time I built my first scratch built light on the left of the big one… so the D01 or “Fathead” reflector is in my DBC-01. lol
Funny how the years have made the Fathead shrink, isn’t it? Even the BTU Shocker looks pretty tame next to the new beast. And so it goes…. time waits on no man. :sunglasses:
Not so much a mod as a finish i use on had work lights, just a wire wheel on a bench grinder, plenty of grip for oil/water/hydraulic fluids on gloves.
plus a 5 sec scuff on the wire wheel and she ir ready to go agian, not for every one but after a few years i kinda like it. i usually have a lit tail cap but these are toolbag bastards.
I decided to rework my MBI HF-R Ti to incorporate a USB charging circuit as there was space in the momentary switch section to do it, changed the emitter to a Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and powered by an Efest 10440 cell. Charging current is 110mA. Red GITD switch locators and charging indicator.
Previously this was an MT-G2 light.
I swapped some resistors in the switch as follows so turning the rotary switch to the right now goes from high to low.
The momentary button is direct drive, the rotary high mode now gets the light hot at a comfortable level.
Momentary mode - 560lm
RSwP 01 - 887Ω to 1Ω - 240lm - 20mins
RSwP 02 - 200Ω to 2Ω - 150lm - 40mins
RSwP 03 - 15 Ω to same - 30lm - 220mins
RSwP 04 - 5.1Ω to 200Ω - 10lm
RSwP 05 - 0Ω to 887Ω - 1lm
Yes checking current with a multimeter. Pretty sure that is a big part of why the measured current is less than expected but still thought I would measure a bit higher.
Unfortunately didn’t have the funds at the time of the groupbuy to get that clampmeter.
Planning to get one or to get a resistor and use that for current measurements.
Today I added a timer to candle mode, making it sort of a votive candle. Click 3 times to add 30 minutes to the timer. Then when the time expires, it’ll gradually dim for about a minute, sputter, and then shut off.
Post #5000!
(at the moment)
Wow, nice feature TK :+1:
I’d like the candle mode a lot, all of anduril actually, but I’ve busted one D4 driver before and never managed to flash an attiny previously, so I’m kinda scared to do so
Candle mode sounds great. I was thinking a timer feature would be useful for bedside use.
Pure kitsch, I love it!
Exactly. It’s nice falling asleep to something which looks like a fire, knowing it’ll put itself out after a while.
It can also be a reminder to put the book down and go to sleep.
Rebuilt the charger module in the carbon fibre & brass Concept1
