+1
It’s no LEDiL boom but it works with the E21As
It really seems a bit worse in the pic than in real life. Doesn’t bother me at all and more importantly no donut hole. Someone should try it with a single emitter.
Do you think an XHP70.2 would fit the reflector?
Interesting that you mention the XHP70.2, in comparable value lights I’d actually considered the Thrunite TC20, Rofis MR70, and Lumintop ODF30. But decided I liked the throw and size (and value) of the Catapult best.
There’s plenty of physical space for just about any size emitter to physically fit into the hole at the base of the reflector, the challenge (for XHP50.2 or XHP70.2) is to find the right MCPCB size that would allow -
- the emitter to reach the correct height/depth into the reflector,
- the wires not to interfer with or short against the reflector, and
- use of a 12V emitter, to avoid also changing out the driver board.
The available larger boards that work with #1&2 above, don’t support #3 (they’re 6V). The closest I’ve gotten is the 12V XHP50.2 20 mm Sinkpad, it works great for #3 but only partially for #1&2. I will need some tweaking to get closer.
Heck, I even considered reflowing to XHP35 HD neutral as an option to gain a more spread in a neutral/warmer tint.
Thanks for your reply, I would like to have the bigger reflector of the V6, here it is against the TC20.
You can make any 6V MCPCB work with 12V emitters see this and that.
Check MaxToch, they made a large MCPCB for using the 70.2 in their Shooter…
The 70.2 needs to sit lower (further out) in the reflector for proper focus when compared to the HI style emitters. I can get away with sitting some reflectors on the MCPCB when using the HI sometimes but the 70.2 likes to have a centering ring to get some space in there.
And yes, cutting the trace and bridging can make a 6V board work as a 12V set up. I like to use a scalpel and cut two parallel lines, then pull the copper off between the lines. 
Tonight I built this FET+1 driver for Astrolux MF02 XHP70.2 and Andúril firmware.
Wonder if the 7135 chip will survive the current?
And, has Anduril been ported for use with 6V emitters?
The 7135 will survive. It make the low levels 350ma. Don’t you mean voltage? I used the regular Q8 andúril. It only tells the 7135 and fet to open how much and it doesn’t care about voltage on led. The only thing where need to modify andúril is the battery voltage monitoring. With 3,78V batteries it blinked out 5 and 3.
And the led is lit very dim when off so I don’t know what causing this. Ramping is smooth and I measured 8400 lumens on 3.9V batteries right now. I putted batteries on charger but I need to go to work so I will measure full output and throw tomorrow.
The issue with 7135 chips is that they don’t like going over 5V or so, and tend to die. Some other higher-voltage equivalent would be safer.
The MCU doesn’t like higher voltage either, but that can be resolved with a Zener or LDO, and by switching the voltage measurement to pin 7 behind a voltage divider. Support for this was added recently, to get Anduril running on the BLF GT. It blinks out voltage per cell though, not per pack, so it’ll show 4.2V for full and 2.8V for empty.
It doesn’t care how many cells are in series. It just needs to know what the raw ADC value would be for the lowest and highest voltage-per-cell values, which are set to 2.2V and 4.4V. I generally get these by measuring a full and empty battery and then running it through battcheck.py and copying the values it calculated for ADC_44 and ADC_22.
I have an L6 wit Fet+1+8x7135 LDO driver. A Small Sun ZY T08 MTG2 with same triple channel but with zener diode.
All my 7135s work nicely. But because I can’t compile firmwares I cant modify Andúril battery readings.
Continuing with the upgrades to some lights, Emisar D4 18350 Rechargeable.
I still have some small tweaks to do with this but nearly finished.
Previous attempt.
Nichia 219C
Green glow bezel
Green 6mm x 1.5mm tritium vial in tail cap
Magnetic tail
USB charging unit (1A)
Green Lighted metal side switch
Max 3600lm
I got home from work and batteries fully charged.
Measured 9060 lumens 
But why is my led glowing dimly when the power is off?
Sounds like you have a bleed somewhere.
Could be anything really……a chip that is barely bridged , or other connection , or a LED that is not properly seated on the board , I am sure others more knowledgeable than me will have more answers though.
Some pics of the light:
Left :9060 lumen XHP70.2 P2 3B 5000K MF02. Right: 7800 lumen XHP70.2 P2 5C 4000K SMO reflector L6
Both on turbo just setted the exposure low.
CRX that D4 is icredible ! such an awesome work on implementing charging !
Nice work Zozz ! I like xhp70.2 a lot too , especially in throwers 
I am no trying to start an all out off topic discussion (although it is on the modding track still) but have you tried the XHP 50.2 side by side in the same kind of lights , or changed out the 70.2 with the 50.2 in the SAME light to see what the throw looks like with both?
It may not be so for many lights and could be that it just worked better in the one particular light I have tried this with , but here’s my story………
I have one of the Maxtoch 2X that came stock with the 21700 battery tube and 70.2 emitter in it , and although it didn’t have the classic “doughnut hole” , it did have a slightly darker center to the beam instead of the other way around , with the center being the brighter hotspot.
I just decided one day to see what the XHP 50.2 would do in the same light so I flowed the emitter on an extra 32 mm Maxtoch MCPCB I had at the time. I DID NOT change anything else about the light and both emitters were as they came , with the dome ON.
I then put the light back together and checked the lumens and had lost approximately 600 lumens , so at first I was kind of let down. The light was making an average of 4500 lumens with the 70.2 in it (in Turbo Mode) , but the 50.2 was only making around 3900.
I took the light outside once it got dark and turned it on , just to see what the beam looked like and I was pleasantly surprised. Although I had 600 lumens less , the beam was tighter and had a lot more throw to it than the 70.2 did , but the 50.2 still has plenty of spill with it also. It seems kind of weird for the 50.2 with less lumens to look brighter than the 70.2 to my eyes , but I guess it is just the more focused beam that makes it appear that way. The light downrange is not even close from the 70.2 and once you get out past 125 yards or so , the 50.2 is still fairly bright at 400 plus yards , where the 70.2 in the same light was fading fast at the 175 to 200 yard or so mark , in comparison to what it looked like at 125 yards on in.
I need to revisit this simple mod with some dedomed , or sliced emitters and see what the result is with the 70.2 and 50.2 in the same tint and then put in the same light. The original 70.2 was in the 6500K to 7000K tint range while the 50.2 I put in it is a 5700K.
Here are the before and after beamshots of what it did to the beam and throw…………….
These shots were taken in different seasons , but from the same distance. If you look at JUST the tree in the 175 yard picture , you will notice how much brighter it is with the 50.2 emitter , as well as at the gate , with the 50.2 being brighter on the gate itself.
Original 70.2 —— 100 yards
50.2 —— 100 yards
Original 70.2 ——- 175 yards
50.2 ——–175 yards
For comparison of the light on target and hotspot size , here is another 2X with a sliced SST40 emitter at the same tree at 175 yards…….
Measured the MF02 XHP70.2
You already know the 9060 lumens and I got 226125 cd which is good for 951m throw. This is enough for me so I leave the dome on the led. I really like the beam!
Remove the dome and you will like the beam even more. Crees love it.