Moded a deodorant cover to make a GITD diffuser for my Wuben T70.
I applied some Montana GITD spray and a piece of GITD tape in the interior for a better fit on the bezel!
Changed the outter ring of purple peds to orange on this E07.
I fixed my sw45 triple RRT-01!
before:
replacement driver from Jetbeam
my first mod ever 
woohoo!
and now I own all sorts of modding tools and supplies…
I feel like dancing!
major thanks to pinkpanda, CRX and Clemence for the inspiration,
and to moderator007, SKV89 and pol77
for all the support and encouragement to learn to roll my own…
First mod? That is worth dancing about! Great job JS. Something tells me this may just be a beginning… 
(modding is addicting!)
Today I modded my PulseLabz Guardian Series Signature Gaming chair.
I'm not a gamer and I'm not a small person. Actually it was more of a repair than a mod. The gas piston failed after the first week. Two weeks later I had a new piston in hand. The kind people at Pulselabz also provided some written instructions.
"The first step is to separate the piston from the tilt-lock mechanism above. To do this, first raise the chair to the highest position you can with the height adjustment. Then find a friend to help you, both with one leg pushing down on the metal base and the other leg on the ground, wiggle the chair upwards and downwards in a rhythm, with one arm holding the height adjustment lever in the open position and the other arm holding the backrest until the piston separates from the top.
The second step is to separate the piston from the metal base. As your old piston can go in the trash, the method we came with will damage it but its okay. What you can do is take off all the casters/wheels, and then find a concrete parking spot block, then holding the metal base, hit the piston really hard against the concrete parking block and it should pop out upwards
Let me know if there's anything I can help with."
I chose another route:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pV-wXwoQovc
Worked great.
Too many mod threads so now i’m re-posting to my favorite one, sad day:
Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
It’s sliced LH351D 5K 90CRI LEDs also.
Dark blue board looks great 
Do you have maybe beam shot comparing sliced LH351D 5K with other 5000K led?
This one is the longest build with many failures so far.
Long time ago I ordered S2+ CU. The plan was kiriba-ru triple with Luxeon MZ 5700K. I wanted patina, so coating was removed, not ideally, but it’s not bad. The light was nice, but kinda green and extremely floody. So it went to rebuild box.
New idea was 4*E21A 4000K & 5000K mix and kiriba-ru pill. Wiring those little boards is quite challenging. Tried four times and finally destroyed MCPCB. Thankfully I had one spare. So I reflowed those little yellow guys to their new home.
I wanted to use 60 degree optic. Some time ago in another build I glued the plastic holder (which came with the optic) to the MCPCB. This time I couldn’t do it. Does not matter how hard I tried, the glue was all over leds. I cleaned the board and decided to use gasket for XM size leds.
Next day, finally:
Album with all (not many) pictures
Picture with beamshots of few lights (wall is not perfectly white):
That’s an interesting mod g_damian!
Which flux bin did you use for both the 4000&5000K?
And how many lumens does it make?
I used sm503-D220-L2-R9080 and sm403-D240-M1-R9080 from virence.com. According to 4x E21A 9080 CRI output test by Texas_Ace - Amazing tint and good output those leds should make 1585 @5A, so probably around 1200 OTF.
Not much of a mod, but it looks pretty.
I swapped the battery tube and tailcap from a D4V1 Ti onto the head of a D4V2:
It ends up around 2,400 lumens with a ~4.05V VTC6
After slicing and using a 10511 optic:
CCT is between 3978K and 4130K regulated and 4371K turbo (FET)
Duv is between –0.0015 and –0.0007 regulated and –0.0006 turbo (FET)
The hot spot is larger and more “even” than an SST-20 but less intense. A little more intense than 219 in a clear narrow optic I guess?
It’s kind of nice how it tracks a bit warmer and lower Duv at the lowest modes and gets a bit cooler and very close to BBL at higher modes.
Built a Shorty S2+ for a night time Snake Hunter —- Tint has a slight shift to green—- 
!
! !
!
Yes but it’s a lovely green.
Was contemplating a spring bypass for my little SF14v2 but decided to try this instead. 
double springs
Just a quick Convoy S2+ SST-20 4000 K mod today. Replaced the stock SMO reflector with a 60° TIR and flashed my own firmware
Original SMO reflector:
60° TIR:
(Both images with same camera and post processing settings.)
Oh yeah… :heart_eyes:
Opened a stock Niteye Eye10, removed stock reflector, installed replacement…
Original reflector gave 550 lumens, replacement gives 625 lumens, same battery.
the kaidomain 21514 reflector has a tighter hotspot, smaller opening at the bottom, than stock.
I like this kaidomain 23424 reflector better, the hotspot is a bit larger but without the “donut hole” in the middle of the hotspot)
the replacement reflectors are slightly taller, the bezel does not screw down quite as far. Although still far enough to cover the O ring on the body
thanks to moderator007 for researching and finding these kaidomain reflectors… much better beam, without the rings from the stock reflector (especially w N219b)
What’s that tool you used to help unscrew the bezel? Looks handy!
it came from darksucks… oveready sells them too
they are made for slightly larger diameter lights, hence the bits of leather I added…
super convenient tool, that was my first test to see if they would be strong enough to break open a stock factory glued bezel… so far… winner! Its a size specific tool, dedicated to my RRT-01 accumulation
does not hurt as much when I drop on toes… plus these are not as easy to pop on and off, but they have a more “universal” fit:-)
