What did you mod today?

Kawi, that sub Ti is amazing! Love it!

1.25 is best case scenario if the batteries are perfectly balanced, if not you could have one drop below that while the other is running fine at 3.6v for example. In series you’ll need to keep an eye on both batteries separately.
As you have the space and obv the modding skills you could maybe add a couple of protection circuits for an easier life.
Nice mod though! I’m a big fan of sleepers.

Nice work, man!

GT mini blue switch LED

Modded my atmel Atmega32A-AU mcu iMax B6 charger clone

0) added header pins for flashing

  1. flashed cheali firmware onto it
  2. added resistor to mod 39kOhm to 40.8kOhm
  3. built my own data cable (data works now, didn’t before)
  4. calibrated against 2-3 Lithium batteries
  5. I gave up using logging software on Linux, unfortunately
    (logging SW on ARM is sparse or I just don’t get it)
  6. minicom .cap file capture works though
  7. todo: logging/plotting on Linux!


What a marvellous charger this clone now is, can’t believe it. It took way more time than I thought it would. But it was worth it in the end.

Just finished up my C8TT ANNA mod

Some test fitting:

Finished product:

Driver: LED4Power LD-B4 12A 20MM
LEDs: 6x LH351D 3500K 90CRI

12A CC mode
~11.55A tail - 3,205lm

FET mode (VTC5D)
~19.4A tail - 4,370lm

Wow, very nice build!

I have a C8TT with the triple setup, had to step up to a P28A (from a 30Q) to even get it hot!

Nice! Cool looking light, how’s the beam profile?

It’s like the D4S Angie optics. Floody but the big TIRs make a nice defined hot spot with spill too.

This is the head design from kiriba-ru?

Yes, it was originally made for CUTE optics but he is also modifying them and adding a spacer for ANNA optics if you prefer. He also “foybezeled” for me for a small fee since I don’t have a suitable grinder.

! !

My HDS clicky. Reflector bored out, heatsink thermal epoxied in. Triple Nichia 219b sw40. Dr Jones h17f driver. Reverse clicky in place of the original e-switch. Thinking about potting the driver with thermal pad and epoxy for an extra sense of completeness. This is definitely my favorite mod so far

! !
Also finished in the past couple days: Novatac quad sst-20 3500k, 20mm LD-A4 6 amp driver, new glass lens, spring bypassed, etc. Packed full with thermal pad supposedly 12 W/.

18350 s2+ 219b sw45k h17f. Ano stripped and polished because I hate the color but no pics of that yet

I finally got around to replacing the XP-L2 emitters I had put in my Dad’s Q8. It now has an LED4Power conversion board and 4 3V XHP-50.2’s. With aging 30Q’s charged up it showed 12,100 lumens out the front. I have spring bypasses done, and the tail PCB is screwed down with brass screws. While doing the emitter swap I also replaced the factory MOSFET with an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP. Pretty sure newer cells, or hotter cells, would get me up over 14,000 lumens, but hey, at some point I’ve gotta quit buying stuff! :stuck_out_tongue:

I've been using last years BLF contest winning light a lot more recently and did some more tweaking to it..

I made a new triform lighted momentary tail switch cover, dual o-rings/ copper body section and added a seventh moonlight mode for seven modes in rotary tail action and direct drive momentary tail switch.

Copper, Titanium & Carbon Fibre construction
Cree XP-L HI v2 3A 5000K emitter
GITD O-ring & LED surround
20mm Copper DTP MCPCB
19mm x 8mm solid copper heatsink
20mm x 12mm SMO Reflector
22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass
Lighted rotary seven mode tail switch & momentary button
Dual colour Tritium indicators
Magnetic cell contacts
18350 cell compatible
Removable USB charging unit

Length – 94mm
Width – 27mm
Weight – 192g (With 18350 cell)

Momentary Switch - 1300lm
Mode 1 - 1269lm
Mode 2 - 380lm
Mode 3 - 162lm
Mode 4 - 44lm
Mode 5 - 15lm
Mode 6 - 4lm
Mode 7 - ML
Max throw - 245m

CRX Rotary revised runtime graph in Modes 1 & 2.

My three favorites, the CRX carbon fibre, titanium & copper triumvirate flashlight set.

I guess this is half success and half fail. Got a new bezel for this light and figured I might as well change up some things…

E07 Ti+Cu LED swap

  • LH351D 3500K x3, 5000K x4 sliced
  • Added in some red aux LEDs
  • Failed to flash driver with pogo pins, could never get it to test OK even though I had aux board desoldered
  • Too scared to push driver out so I didn’t get to flash it like I wanted
  • Tint is nice already and according to SKV89 changing to UCL lens gets you 0.0020 Duv less which I haven’t done (yet)

Turbo: 5,320lm @ 3s

Anyone know why the phosphor is discolored a bit on 2 of those 3 warmer LEDs? I ran turbo several times and it doesn’t appear to be getting any worse. Whatever it is it can’t be good.

Stepped ramp measurements:

Ambient = 25.6 Lux, CCT = 3812K (Duv –0.0002)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.3 [ R9 = 69.7 ]

Ambient = 165.1 Lux, CCT = 3875K (Duv –0.0000)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.3 [ R9 = 70.5 ]

Ambient = 570.7 Lux, CCT = 3893K (Duv 0.0000)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.3 [ R9 = 70.4 ]

Ambient = 1447.6 Lux, CCT = 3892K (Duv 0.0000)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.2 [ R9 = 70.2 ]

Ambient = 3083.4 Lux, CCT = 3900K (Duv –0.0000)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 94.2 [ R9 = 70.2 ]

Ambient = 5462.6 Lux, CCT = 3971K (Duv 0.0006)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 93.3 [ R9 = 67.0 ]

Ambient = 13028.6 Lux, CCT = 4073K (Duv 0.0012)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 92.2 [ R9 = 63.0 ]

Ambient = 43541.7 Lux, CCT = 4146K (Duv –0.0001)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 91.6 [ R9 = 59.2 ]

Could be some contact from the TIR causing dome separation, I’ve had that problem before doing this mod.

My first E07 didn’t have any issues but it is a pretty close fit. Guess I need to fix it then

The two loops on the head strap of the Sofirn SP40 are too tight and in addition too far away from each other for the short 18350 battery tube. So I fixed it with a knife and double sided velcro straps:

I hope the silicone doesn’t tear where I cut it.

You were right Dale. Opened it up and you could see a slight cut on the dome. I tried to re-do it and even made the optic legs a bit tighter fit with kapton tape and it didn’t matter. One looks just the same and the other looks slightly better now. Going to have to stay like that