I will take it :-))
That is a neat multimeter, I use one too. I like that despite the small 2032 button cell, it does (up to 200mA) current measurements, and especially the micro-amp measurement is nice.
I have had 3 of the old Thorfire VG-10’s, not the VG-10S’s. I really was not sure what to do with them, but I know that I hate the XM-L2 1? leds, my first thought was to throw in an XM-L2 T6 4C (my standby XM-L2. The cold, crappy XM-L2 in the chassis do not throw well, they have a horrible tint and just drag a really good light down. So, this morning I opened one up and found the usual aluminum XM-L star, at least it was DTP. I had a couple of L1V2’s in 4000k, I know only 70 CRI, but it is a thower not an EDC. So, mounted one up on a KD star, found the right centering ring and wrestled the o-ring back in between the reflector and the body. Wow, it is really nice! One minor issue the sinkpad was a tad thicker than the crappy one in the light so the bezel ring stands just a whisker proud when tight. Next time it is apart I will file the bottom of the star down just a little. But, with a good cell I am getting a nice smooth 3.34 amps and a wonderful warmish output.
Since I was on a roll, I put an LH351D in my FW1A. Modified a really old XP footprint DTP sinkpad to fit the light, that little screw in the led shelf is a pain… I felt the SST-20 beam was to tight for EDC, the LH351D fixed that. The hotspot has an off color corona, but it is not terrible. Went with 4000k 90 CRI. Does not get as hot with this LED either.
I really wish we could buy the factory stars for the FW1A and FW3A. I want to stay with white ones in the FW3A so as not to affect the tint of the output on low power modes.
A ’351 would probably look nice in that VG10…
Thanks to 80T’s post I was able to mod my Utorch UT01 with the GT Micro driver and a LH351D 3500K.
I tried to get Anduril on there but I had some weird issue where it would work fine then strobe and become unresponsive after a minute or so. Reverted back to the stock firmware and it seems to be working now.
Does just under 1,000lm with a Vapcell button top. The reflector in this light is really great and forgiving when it comes to focusing.
I changed the LED one of these $10 Olight HeadLights ( H04 Active) to a XPE Green —- It was my first time changing a direct to circuit board LED— I used a heat gun on the underside — it seemed to warp the board slightly —- I’m wondering if the board would hold up better using a hot plate —- I was skeptical about succeeding after heating this board—it worked fine while apart on the bench —- every time I put it back in the plastic housing it wouldn’t work —I guess on the 10th try I held my mouth right and Walla it worked perfectly —-One of those days I guess —Lucky me my stepson needs 4 more —yippie
I think I’d use the hot air from the top on that one, no copper board to heat up and it’d keep overall heat down for the integrity of the board. Glad it’s not me… 
Modded my s mini ti. 3000k 85cri xml2, glow behind the optic, trit in the pocket clip and an epoxide magnet tail.
Now all my EDC rotation lights are around 3000k. 3000k rainbow:
I’m worried I’ll mess the dome up on the emitter—I’m thinking about putting a small disc (10mm) of aluminum on my hot plate and that way it just heats under the LED
Yes you should use a hot plate if it’s a single sided board. If it survived your first try then it should survive more even heating. You could also use the hot plate to just pre-heat it and hit it with hot air briefly (with flux to speed up the process)
Oh, you mean you can damage the dome with hot air? Wish someone would have told me that a couple of years ago… my hot air station only goes to 480C though, maybe that’s why I’ve gotten away with it…
Hot air and silicone, yum.
thats a great idea… you could accomplish the same with hot air blown under the LED. Suggest you try air temp down around 250C
Im pretty sure the dome will come off if you heat the LED from above w hot air… that is my experience anyway, using 400C hot air (bad idea)
nice mods!
my EDC atm is a 3500k E21a… in V11r
Im really liking the 3500k E21a LOT!
I’ll grab a gallon of milk on the way over C… 
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Convoy s6 with Nichia Optisolis 4000k quad from ViRenCe and LD-A4 3amp driver. Thanks Clemence!
We’re still waiting for the beamshots! 
Thanks! I have a v11r laying around somewhere, might have to try that E21a.
I only have few bad ones taken with my phone. Basically its a laser pointer, not really useful but fun.
That is pretty neat, I must say! :+1: