What did you mod today?

Took a while to accomplish, but now it’s done, I’m really happy!
BTW, the drivers are from Lexel, forgot to mention before!

And the Bistro OTSM choices are quite good for an EDC light :wink:

The next one will involve a Luxeon V2 Led or an XP-L Hi :wink: It will work well under the SMO reflector !
Thanks!

Very nice! The Tool AA makes a great host. BTW, these covers (the light green ones) work great when installing an illuminated tailcap.

They’re actually lighter than I expected them to be:

Thanks gchart! :wink:
I guess those are the same as the ones in ghis link:
https://a.aliexpress.com/lQDeG6JQ

I was wondering if they fit but now you’ve said it I may give it a try! Having several Tool lights I may use them well!

But the OTR tailcap is perfect to use with these switches, it is only sligtly transparent, blocking many light when you are in the dark! You can still locate the flashlight but it will not bother the “night vision” :wink:

Thanks for the tip :slight_smile:

Thanks!
I thought the most boring part will be mcpcb polishing.
It turned out that it was cleaning holes for tir optics from excess thermal paste.

:smiling_imp:

A little collection of 4000K loaded lights:

I replaced the XP-L HD in the SP32A with a LH351D, replaced an XP-L HI in the S2+ with the 351D that was in the generic zooming light (with A6 clip) and put a 219C in the zoomie.

I felt I wasn't getting as much out of the 351D in that zoomie (typical with any small aspheric) as I would if it were in an SMO reflector. The SP32A has a great SMO reflector and even tames the 351D beam to be fairly focused. The 219C (from MTN) is one of the more rosy 4000K but I didn't notice it until I put it behind the convex lens. And it gets hot, pushed at 5A+ by a Convoy SST40 driver.

I loaded my pockets and took these out to my 'test range' for tint comparisons from 3 LED manufacturers.

Tried to slice another one after posting and chipped the phosphor. :person_facepalming: I guess I have a blue led now.

I read somewhere that I shouldn’t worry much about the bond wires in an LH351D? Having a hard time looking for it or I guess I was just lucky while slicing it and didn’t snag anything.

Same here. Sliced it since people says it reduces the greenish tint

contactcr is right. My bad. I edited my post just in case someone reads it.
@contactcr Thanks for your video and measurements! Used it as a guide for this mod.

Looks like you made the host :nerd_face: Any more build pics :slight_smile:

Yes please :slight_smile: And the feet and coffee are misleading, I bet that was a lot of work :smiley:

Can’t remember for sure but the LH351D may be a flip chip technology, will have to re-investigate that. If do the bond wires are on bottom and slicing is easier but in this style of emitter there is typically phosphor surrounding the die on the substrate that also excites and is the cause of the odd aura, dicing around the die to remove the unnecessary phosphor around the perimeter yields the optimal result. Cree XHP 2 emitters and the XP-G3 really fare well with the slice and dice treatment.

I’ve slept since slicing a 351 so I’ll have to look back into it, my memory makes all this a PITA, everything’s new so much of the time…

Yes, the 351 is flip chip so no bond wires on top to break. No, they don’t have surrounding phosphor like Cree emitters, slice as close to the phosphor as you dare and I recommend no dicing in order to prevent chipping the phosphor edge.

All phosphor removed, this is how a bare silicone die 351 lights a room on direct drive. Emitter is on a heat sink, nothing but a test cell.

NovaTac/FW1Pro 50.2 3volt…sorta…

Next to the FW3/NovaTac triple…

Swapped out the 50.2 for a XP-L HI V4 3C to try out, then HI CRI SST-20 from Blue Sword next….

Can you post details about driver swap?

I have one FW driver and not working 120T, this was my idea also :)

EDIT: just realized you made a new alu pill for the driver/mcpcb

Made these a few weeks ago. Another couple big builds :)

CRX CuTi Bolti Nichia 219C 4000K 90CRI - DD - 10440 - Bolt Action Sw - 350lm.

Single mode bolt action torch.

Made from a titanium straw, pocket bellows and other bits & pieces.

.

.

CRX CuSS AAA LH351D 5000K - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 100lm.

Copper & stainless steel single mode torch.

^^^^^^^^^
O

M

G

That’s pretty much my reaction anytime CRX posts anything lol.

He sure comes up with some nifty stuff !

Yep. :beer:

Seriously CRX, you’re an animal :+1:

I don’t know why I even bother but FWIW, since I gave away all my C01’s at Xmas and they’re basically out-of-stock. I decided to check out the Klarus Mi02 (currently on sale at SBFlashlights). Turns out the Mi02 is perfect lego with Sofirn C01. Took the occassion to swap out the old Nichia CS for a hi-cri Yugi 3K.

Unlike Fenix E01 and Sofirn C01, no potting, just some white adhesive that softened when heated.

Before (left) and After (right) (WB was set to 5000K so Nichia CS “angry blue” actually doesn’t look bad in photo)

After LED swap I applied a conformal coating to protect circuit board from water, not as protective as potting but hopefully better than nothing. And after assembly a light solder coating at all contact wear points.


EDIT - I did a second Mi02 mod and discovered that all Mi02’s are not the same. My second unit was fully potted?! It came out with some heat but swapping the “angry blue” Nichia CS with a hi-CRI required laboriously picking away at the potting compound. I also replaced the 7.5Ohm resistor with a 10Ohm to reduce current slightly.

Heavenly work from CRX again! And descending back to us mere mortals: nice job pc_light, good to see that all those 5mm lights lego with each other. I still hope for a C01 host version soon.