What did you mod today?

Your tailcap solution looks so much better than stock! :+1:

Great looking light, pp!

Curious… why stack two illuminated tailcap boards?

Was just using it as a dummy for fitment purposes. Not actually going to use the L4P board. Sorry for the confusion.

I have better plans for the second one you sent me :wink:

If you need a switch give me a holler.

:beer: :beer:

Moded the Skilhunt M200 .

I put pebbled TIR , replacing the SMO reflector and AR Coated glass lens. I kept the black gasket around the LED, and I put a black o-ring a between the TIR and the bezel (it has a blue one originally, but it was causing some blueish shift in the beam with the TIR).

Here is how the beam looks with the TIR. It has, obviously, less throw, less intensity, it is floodier, but has no artifacts on the beam!

Finished a mod (finally) on a fairly big zoomie - the Xanes X915 P10, bought here on Ali. Came to my attention in the Zoomie thread here, Texas Toasted posting here. It's listed here on BG, but a bit pricey.

Originally planned on a SBT90.2 but decided against it because I got a SBT90.2 in a 1504 already, and the heat is not handled very well. So, a white flat W1 will do with a FET+1 driver running my tweaked Anduril. Plan is to use lighter gauge long leads for the LED's, since they already have to be long through the tube.

From the listing:

Stock parts. Notice the long wires that are needed, and the white plastic centering ring will be tossed.

USB Charger/power bank support:

Driver electronics (partial):

Switch, LED's, and more driver parts:

Driver parts stripped:

Lots of wiring needed to make use of the LED's on each side of the switch, plus switch wire, and batt+ to the board:

FET+1/Anduril installed. Spring replaced a small brass button. I wanted heavier, more wiring on Batt- grnd to help with drawing heat away from the driver, since it's not properly mounted. The Batt+ to LED is already taken care of. The green LED's go to MCU pin #2, while the blue LED's go th MCU pin #7. Anduril supports it on both pins, but currently they do the same thing. I was able to use 2 greens and 2 blues, half of what the light has. The stock driver/MCU controls 8 LED's individually from 6 I/O pins. It provides both + and - to the LED's. If the MCU switches the polarity, the other LED in each pair lights up, so they must be alternating polarity to light up both, probably via PWM's. For this driver with the ATtiny85, I simply wired one side to ground so I could control 1/2 of them.

Copper round, 14 gauge, on backside of the shelf, thermal epoxied in, reflow of the W1 on a stock 3535 XP MCPCB:

Drill/tapped 2 screws, used MX4 under the MCPCB:

Close-up of reflow job, I think it's ok, not perfectly centered:

Backside after mounted:

26 AWG long LED wires got 5 amps on a Samsung 35E, but want to do better. Tried 24 AWG and it bumped a little to ~5.2 amps, so I added a 22 AWG spring bypass on the tail.

Here's how it looks:

Compared to a couple of other similar throwers, 1504 on the left, Noctigon K1 on the right:

Now with a B158 on the right:


Recorded 717 kcd taken at 5 meters (just over 1 mile), on a 4.19V Samsung 35E. I think that's in the ballpark of what I'd expect. The hot spot is tiny - somewhat difficult to get the reading but after some re-positioning of the meter, I could clearly hold it in the 700 -717 kcd range.

Sorry, didn't get a firm recorded measure on the lens width but when I did measure it, I found it to be about dead-on with the 1504's lens, though the Xanes is plastic, not glass like the 1504.

The green and blue LED's look awesome, specially with Anduril 2 level brightness controls.

Tom, have you considered potting the driver to improve thermals?

Nice mod Tom! The amount of copper around the led may be a bit plenty but the stock shelf did need improving so it can’t hurt :slight_smile: Great throw!

Well, I still want to have the ability to reflash so not sure if potting the backside maybe would do much?

Thanx! These zoomies have a terrible time to get rid of the heat. The 1504 and B158 shown both have SBT90.2's in them and both exhibit poor heat distribution - the head stays cool for a while and output drops quick. They both have relatively small brass pills so this light's 'shelf' is decent. Was debating to add much more copper since there's plenty of room.

Very cool mod. I wonder how the glass lens compares to the plastic, are they swappable?

Hhmm, I'd have to check - I'm thinking not because the plastic one has a flat rim around it, but not sure of the 1504's glass one does as well.

I’m not sure the FET driver needs much thermal consideration, but if there were something to gain, I think it would be cool if you wired up the USB port to the MCU for external flashing. MikeC did something similar once I believe.

WOW, That is an amazing beam from a small light !! GREAT JOB !! :+1:

Thanks CNCman!

BTW, I did some more beamshots in this thread: OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm² - #956 by MascaratumB

Here’s one of them, even during daylight :

Hi, chris :smiley:
The XHP 70 runs surprisingly long time before getting warm, so I did not try to mod for heat sinking. Also just kept the stock driver.
This one is too difficult to mod for heat problems because the led is not directly mounted to the outside of the flashlight.

Made the measurements and was able to swap in the glass 1504 lens.

Bezel Bezel Lens

Outer Opening Outer Bubble

Zanes X915: 67.0 62.0 65.5 61.0 mm

1504: 67.0 59.2 66.6 62.1 mm

With the glass lens, I measured 5.4 amps on a BT 35E at 4.18V: 650 kcd at 5m, so less than the stock plastic lens. It appears to be focused but there's some non-uniform artifacts around the hotspot.

Here's the tool I use to remove the bezel, using the flat ends (screwdriver type):

Business ends of the 3 modded zoomies:

Close-up of the Xanes with stock plastic:

Now with the 1504 glass, not much difference:

Wall shot with the glass lens. You cane see some of the odd patterns around the hot spot, more pronounced in real life:

With the 1504 SBT90.2, should have blacked out the reflective parts, believe it's the rim of the brass pill:

Here's the Noctigon K1 w/W1:

Does the USB charging still work after your driver swap?

Nope, that’s the bad thing about this mod :zipper_mouth_face:
The driver I am using (from led4power) doesn’t have charging, so it doesn’t work :zipper_mouth_face:

I kept the driver, though, in case I want to reverse the mod, or in case I can build a charger with it! (not sure how… :person_facepalming: )