Thanks for risking the $45 and reporting back!
Is that glue in the second pic or broken glass? Just clean it up with alcohol?
Glue residue :+1:
I didnāt try to clean it or anything I was scared to bump the tiny wires on the die, residue is really thin though.
Is the lens just for protection of those little wires? Anyone know for sure?
Sometimes you just need more AAAās to try more LEDs. If I had more variety I would offer it up to pass around for so many undecided people.
Nice collection, contactcr! Iāve got probably just shy of that. Iām a sucker for AAA and AA lights as theyāre usually inexpensive and probably get most of my use since thereās always one around (always at least one or two in my pockets)
Yep ..... 15-20 AAA lights is about enough . There ends up not really being that much difference in them to warrant having too many more than that . I have a small box that when it gets full of AAA's I think .."ok that's enough"..
..... need to get a bigger box .
1.2mm copper heatsink to shim using hand tools 
This allows proper contact with Convoy Omtem Switch inside the Brass S2+ tail cap.
iām not sure if you want to click this link or not, but that is definitely some manual work.
Thanks, those should come in handy.
It seems like more products are becoming available, it really pays to do a thorough product search. For example I decided to look again for a 120mm glass lens (to replace a plastic lens) for a light. I found someone on eBay that custom cuts glass disks for just a couple dollars.
I have had a couple of those Boruit D10 headlamps for quite while. I like the light a lot but there has been one main gripe. Like so many cheaper lights the emitter is very cold. I have been meaning to swap the XM-L it came with for something else. Today I did it, using a Samsung LH351D in 4000K, CRI 90.
I neglected to take a ābeforeā image. I began with removing the OEM star and emitter. It was glued in place with a little thermal compund. Prying with a small screwdriver popped it loose. After de-soldering and some preliminary scraping, this is what I had. Those wires to the mcpcb sure are short.
I did do a more thorough job of cleaning up the debris. Then I reflowed the LH351D onto a mtnelectronics 200mm mcpcb. Here it is just before I slipped it off my homemade reflow hot plate.
I managed to solder the wires to the mcpcb with less drama than I was anticipating.
I mounted the mcpcb to the shelf using some double sided thermal tape. As well as swapping the mcpcb/emitter I am swapping the reflector with an optic. Iām not sure of the angle. It was in one of my unlabeled odds ānā ends boxes. Not too wide, not too narrow. I did try this out before commencing the emitter swap.
A nice, noticably warmer shade of light than the OEM emitter. I have used the 4000K 90 CRI LH351D in other applications and do like the light it produces.
Looking at the front end of the opticā¦
Another shotā¦
Beam shotā¦ the light is about 16 to 18 inches above the wood. (wood is a back panel for a kitchen island cabinet I am working on.)
Charging the 30Q nowā¦
Nice swap, Don. Those things do make good hosts.
Nice work MtnDon 
Can you tell me more about your hot plate, I need to make something with better temp control.
Nice! I have some TIR optics coming fromā¦ fasttech? Sounds right. And the driver I ordered from Quadrupel is finally tracking stateside, after 28 days of the tracking not updating. Iāve yet to decide what LED Iāll put in, though. I have a pair of 5D XM-L2s from Hank to hopefully successfully get one into my Olight S1. Maybe the other will go in hereā¦
Also, you are such a Canadian with those Robertson-head screws 
The reflow plate is very simple. I cut and rather crudely bolted together four layers of 1/8ā thick x 2 inch wide aluminum strap. I drilled three holes in the sides of the stacked plated to fit the heater elements. The heater elements are replacement parts for some 3D printer. I found them on Aliexpress. I clamp the two bolt legs in a vice when I want to use it.
I use a DC power supply for power. The three elements are connected in parallel. In warm weather such as now I find that setting the output to 6.0 VDC is about right; I need to step it up when the shop is colder. The elements draw about 4.8 amps at that setting and the plate heats up the mcpcb fast enough w/o damaging the emitter. I use another warmed aluminum plate stack to move the mcpcb to for a gradual cooling. It was just trial and error with the finalized numbers written on a note and taped inside the cabinet door as I canāt remember details like that very well. Not fancy but it was cheap and works for me.
Iām impressed you know the name. When we moved I packed the entire workshop, nuts, bolts, hardwood lumber, etc. Everything! Some hardware I had in large numbers. Thirty-five-plus years later I still have some assorted āCanadianā screws. I do like those square drives so much better than phillips.
I ended up with some Robertson drywall screws. I hate the phillips drive with a burning passion. Mostly Iāve ended up with torx-drive stuff, though.
Simple mod:
Replaced the XML2 U3 1A on the On The Road 311 for a Luxeon V2 4000K on led4power MCPCB.
BEFORE > AFTER
Love the āafterā.
Ahah, thank you 
I also prefer the after, this led and tint in particular are great
BTW, when I pointed it - before and after - to the lux meter, the Luxeon V2 gave me slightly higher results. Is that normal? Can it be related to the more intense hotspot?
Yes, thatās exactly it. If lumens were the same (and they are likely higher with Luxeon V2), itās a smaller emitter so itāll be a bit throwier.