I tried using one of these cheap hot plates with no luck, temp control lets it get too cold and then too hot. I may try fixing it or trashing it.
Yeh, lotta those use thermostats, not actual temperature control. I still have a space-heater with clicky-type mechanical thermostat with at least a 5° hysteresis. So it’ll go full-tilt ’til the room gets too hot, then by the time air on the back end cools down enough to let it turn on again, the rest of the room is quite chilly. So you sweat, then shiver, then sweat, then shiver, etc.
One of the best heaters I had was a Pelonis with 4 discs. Problem is those discs crack, and when loose, spark(!), and at one point blew white smoke like one of those old-timey bubblegum cigarettes.
The control module was a thing of beauty, though. It would regulate heat by adjusting fan speed from nothing (ie, let the discs just sit there at a low simmer) to full-tilt and there’d be blazing heat coming out. And adaptive, so no on/off, just perfectly proportional.
Anyhoo, if you can bypass the thermostat, you might use a “dimmer” type switch, and an IR thermometer to tweak what temperature you want and how fast to get there. It’s more manual than automatic, but it’d work.
converted a 2008 vintage task force 2c to 219c 4000k and 1 26650.
back then these were all the rage.
took out the boost converter and added a .5 2w resistor for about 1.3a on a fresh cell.
a spacer made from dowel rod finishes the job.
makes for a simple,reliable,pwm and rfi free light.
due to the spring loaded emitter plate these will never be flamethrowers due to heat.
its fine at this level.
Stock Cool White is 102 lumens, just under 6000K CCT and above BBL. Looks mostly white but a slight light blue hue to beam. Not my taste but I didn’t really care cause it was getting removed no matter what.
The anodizing and machining is excellent, definitely the best i’ve seen on an AAA light ever. One thing I dont like is the threads are stiff. It’s very hard to operate one handed. Since it only has one mode maybe it’s OK. It seems like it uses the same TIRs you can find on the Yaji aliexpress store but I didn’t confirm this yet.
Mod time, liberal use of kapton tape just to keep stuff from falling off:
Fail #1: Try to channel heat through brass button. Nothing bad happened but I gave up when the heater was around 215-220. Not sure if heat path wasn’t good or if they used lead free.
Fail #2: (not pictured) try to use soldering iron on brass button from the bottom. Duh, brass button wants to come off instantly, had to re-center it after it slid.
Success: Preheat from the bottom, used the hemostats to keep it in place and keep everything pressed on the brass button and then I used hot air from the top. I dont think I ruined the LED but it definitely took more heat than I expected.
I ended up slicing a LH351*C* 4000K 90 CRI. Since it was sliced it already had some 60/40 solder on it and I put a liberal amount of flux paste between the old Skilhunt solder and my 60/40 tinned and sliced LED. It went on much easier. I’m not certain the original solder on the pad fully melted but at the very least it’s flowed on top of their solder if not completely re-flowed. Oh well it’s <250 mA and I’ll redo it if it fails.
Now it’s >90 CRI and 63.5lm - bigger drop in output than I thought but it makes sense going to NW+sliced+high CRI
Mod 1: swapped the XPL HI 5000K in my previously modded Wowtac A6 for a 4000K one from a Convoy S2+. The mod was easy with no issues.
Mod 2: swapped the cool-white XPG2 in my Wowtac W1 for a 4000K Nichia 219C 90 CRI originally from an EDC18. This mod was hard because the W1’s bezel was held on with red threadlocker. That sucker just didn’t want to come off. I finally got it off with a table vise, some pliers, safety walk tape, and a lot of elbow grease. Unfortunately, in doing so the pliers scraped up the bezel and top of the head.
Oh no I recently did an emitter swap in a W1 for mbp and there was no sign of threadlocker. So I bought one for myself with intentions of modding it. Just came in today. Yup, mine is glued tight. Ugh. Me and this bezel are about to do battle! :smiling_imp:
Edit: got it with channel locks using leather welding gloves to protect the Wowtac W1 which came away unscathed.
Driver details: linear regulator is a OCX OC7141. MCU is a PIC (SOIC8 footprint). Charging controller is a TP4067.
CNCman, or use an ordinary pan and maybe some (very thin layer) thermal grease. I’m always recycling the grease from the MCPCB. Check temperatur with IR thermometer and watch solder after 180 or 220 °C to not miss the melting point by too much time. After unsoldering the MCPCB you’ll know if solder is leadfree or nice.
Modded my first series copper Convoy S2+ again. Actually you might say I re-re-lego-ed it.
What I kept from the original: all copper parts, the O-rings, the lens, and the opaque tailcap rubber.
What came in: the long smooth reflector from an older type (UV) Convoy S2,
the XP-L hi emitter was swapped with a flat white emitter I got from Yokiamy,
the standard pill was swapped with a short version from an older type Convoy S2,
the thick butterfly centering was swapped with a flattened round centering ring
an X6/X5 bistro driver went in, and the 8*7135 biscotti driver that came out went to Yokiamy,
the standard switch was swapped with one from the Astrolux S41, added 3mm led and 1k resistor,
and the standard washer was swapped with a nylon M8 washer I got from a local DIY-store.
I got: a reasonably throwy tube light with a nice hotspot. And while I suspect my LX1010B luxmeter displays values that are too low, the output is raised from 19 kCd with XP-L to 28 kCd with white flat.
With thanks to Yokiamy for swapping his flat white emitter for my biscotti driver.
You might say it was the prequel to his WTT Flashlight Trading Topic thread.
One of the victims (under UV light) is shown below.
I got my Opus from GB only it was the European version on sale, and GB back then was nice enough to throw in a US-to-EU adapter for the included wall-wart. Problem is, the EU wall-wart would already stick up about an inch above the adapter, and with the adapter for that going into the power-strip, would be sticking up maybe 3” in mid-air, and so loosely that you’d just look at it wrong and it’d drop out either from the power strip or the adapter.
I needed a rubberband to hold the adapter to the wall-wart, and then another one wrapped from around/behind the power-strip to keep that frankenmess from falling out. What a nightmare, especially if doing a capacity test on a big honkin’ cell.
So I just bought a 5A 12V power-brick (Ledmo, offa Amazon), which works fine’n’dandy, and everything’s nice and secure all around. And it even fits in the Opus’s box, too.
Maybe I can use that come-with 3A wall-wart for an LED strip or something… after hacking away at the AC prongs.