i figured eventually, that will be the “pill” in a flashlight from h3!!, ha ha
Didn’t know that, thanks. But I’ll just use external image hosting sites.
I made a hollow pill solid with a few washers and some JB Weld:
Lexel, everyone who sees your pictures wants the cubes desk ornament featured in them.
When you are going to have the BLF group buy?
They can be bought from Ebay as Cube in a cube or turners cube
But there is a big problem with mass production or groupby!
They are 100% handmade and the quantity availiable is really low.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/TURNERS-CUBE-Separated-Cube-in-a-cube-Handmade-Esthetic-Gift-Souvenir/302218148646
There is also a video made by CNC here
But you cant move the inner cubes
Put a new firmware convoy driver in my D25C. No more loosening/fastening the head
Nitecore EC11 (EC21 18650 body) with lighted switches
Cool mod Crx , it’s really nice like that …
I need to ask , can you link the permanent ink you use in a lot of your mods ? Thanks!
Thanks mate. I use these things a lot
Pentel Permanent Marker Pen Black
Birchwood Casey Matt Black Touch Up Pen
mixed with
Looks good sedstar. :+1:
“Fine Graphite Powder”
What do you use that for? Potting?
CRX:“Fine Graphite Powder”
What do you use that for? Potting?
I use it mainly on the outside of lights, more description here
QUOTE
Looks good sedstar.
ENDQUOTE
wow… coming from YOU? that means a lot… i have slobbered over some of your machiningbefore, lol…
yeah, i am worming my way towards MYAbe offering a few basic machining things/services to members, figured i need somethng to do, off work season now and all…
there seems to be a small but persistent demand for it…
I mode a plastics torch with a cree xml led but it melt down by overheating the led and completly destroyed.
It mean high power leds shouldn’t be used in plastic structures.
I mode a plastics torch with a cree xml led but it melt down by overheating the led and completly destroyed.
It mean high power leds shouldn’t be used in plastic structures.
certainly hope you have pics. Please.
hamedshh:I mode a plastics torch with a cree xml led but it melt down by overheating the led and completly destroyed.
It mean high power leds shouldn’t be used in plastic structures.certainly hope you have pics. Please.
Sorry i discarded it to ASHCAN last night and dustmans empty it.
Just the led remain now.
I bought one of those cheap COB headlights for like 3$ on Ali, and put a lipo in it.
I can charge it with my quadcopter charger.
Ouchyfoot:Thanks CRX
I was going to ask you how you did that. I’m still not exactly sure, but it sounds like a lot of careful work. Maybe you should post a separate thread that shows the process from A to Z, as I haven’t seen one.Not so much careful work as messy! It’s quite a simple process though.
I will try to explain what i did with the lights.
First i roughen up and clean well the areas to be treated. I use a small diamond file where i can then acetone.
I use very fine graphite powder and a decent quality clear epoxy. If you can get black or other colour then that’s fine too, but i quite like to use the term “graphitized”. :person_facepalming:
Mix it up so it’s black and consistent - it doesn’t take much powder and spread it over the desired areas, trying to avoid bubbles and get it into all the grooves and such (Bubbles are the enemy!).
The deeper the grooves the better i think.
The tricky part is making sure the areas are covered well and stay covered, this means holding and slowly rotating the light until the epoxy sets in stiff enough and stops rolling around all over the place.
Use more than needed.
Come to think of it, i must have been doing this for about 8hrs total over the last couple of days as i ran out of quick setting 5 minute epoxy and only had 1hr setting stuff left for the last ones i did. :laughing: But anyway…Set it looks like this
Once it is set hard enough i use an OLD WORN file to take off most of the excess by placing the light on top of the vice jaws and rotating as i file round it just down to the level of the light body, no more.
Don’t use a new file as this will end up eating into the flashlight body.At this stage i used 600 grit sandpaper to round it off, then 1000 grit to smooth it and give the light a brushed finish. I suppose you could take it further to a polished appearance.
The graphite epoxy is very dark grey so i went over it all with a black pentel permanent marker (other markers may leave a purplish colour) It seems to be absorbed fairly well. Leave it for a few minutes then i wipe it over with a cloth and lighter fluid a few times to remove the excess ink.
Hopefully that leaves you with something like this
And before
It occurs to me you could use a rotisserie to allow it to rotate during the cure and possibly even for application.
I changed the MCU and it works with the other one. Added two 7135s and now it’s 3,5A on high. The blinking speed is normal but to change modes I need to be really fast. How can I modify something to have enough time for mode change? Bigger or smaller C1 capacitor, or I need to do something with the firmware?
To reply myself and to collect the whole BD06 FW changing info together. I find the solution for fast button presses. Changed the 1uF C1 capacitor to 2,2uF and it is much better now. :sunglasses:
Putted in the striped Elliptical TIR lens in my S2+
Swapped the driver in my Skywolfeye TLY-6501. Previously, I had a BLF A6 driver in there. I replaced it with a Dr. Jones H17F. The emitter is an XPL HI 5000K 3D on Noctigon.
Hurray for putting $30 worth of parts into a $5 light! It’s very bright and throwy, but still looks like the same small cheap 1x18650 zoomie on the outside.
Thinking of modding another one of these to remove the tailcap switch and add a sideswitch similar to what I did with the Aleto N8.