Today I removed the ring magnet from my S2+ because it was hard to push the button with my thumb. Then skrink tubed two magnets to the belt clip.
After that I replaced the BLFA17DD driver with Texas Avenger in the Jaxman E2L triple, and played a little with S2+ parts and snack packaging.
Wow! You really had to work on that magnet! 
Sure. When I put it in it was already a tight fit and needed hammering through a wood block and I added instant glue between the tailcap and magnet. I like to oversize fittings a little bit. To remove I needed a plier, a wise and a torx bit. I destroyed the edge. Then I can not grip the magnet. After that I put the tailcap in the wise with the small torw bit pushing the magnet through lanyard hole and I won!
That is entirely too much spinner for my little wallet. I donāt even want to know how much something like that costs.
I can only afford the one given to me by my great grandfather Cyrus McPegleg. He said it keeps the krakken away while sailing.
How did he get the peg leg, you ask? Well, one day he went out to sea without this:
Yow. Complete with the battery still inside? Does that damage the tail boot, optics, or o-rings?
I think you just got photobombed by The Flash.
So, this isnāt something I modded todayā¦ or even anywhere close to todayā¦ but I found a box labelled:
HANDLE WITH CARE
PHOTONS IN TRANSIT
ā¦ and inside was the very first pocket light I ever built.
Hot glue and melted plastic are high-tech, and check out that āSuper Brightā LED. Itās pretty compact, too; thereās virtually no wasted space in this build:
It has throw and flood, though nothing particular in-betweenā¦
And it makes a sweet beam shot!
Wow, I remember when I discovered those megabright one million candela 10mm LEDs !
Awesome little Pocket rocket you got there !
EDIT : wait, are those MCd or mCd ? :innocent:
Iām not sure, but itās pretty bright. It puts out at least a hundred milli-lumens. I only needed like a half-second exposure for those beam shots, so Iām pretty impressed with it. In a dark room, it lets me see things thousands of millimeters away.
And the best part? The runtime ā I havenāt had to change the battery in about 20 years!
At least the wavelength isnāt lying about itself nm will always be nm !
Oh, um. Something I modded much more recentlyā¦ really more like something which keeps evolving over timeā¦ my desk. At night, it doubles as a night light:
It doesnāt look quite that bright in real life; I just had the camera do the longest exposure it could. Didnāt even bother fiddling with a tripod; itās easier to transform into a statue for a moment.
Oh, and donāt mind Mister Spooky there in the back. Heās just being spooky.
^i feel both cold and cozy in your picture, dont know why, maybe warmer light may help
Finally received a S3 host from Simon for the Liteon LTPL-C034UVH365
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/239/LTPL-C034UVH365%20DataSheet_Ver4_20150916-775583.pdf
this LED has a electrical neutral middle thermal pad for DTP stars
The active area is a lot bigger than on he Nichia LED, so it throws less
my LED has a surprizing low forward voltage of 3.46V @0.7A
driven at 1.05A, not sure if it would survive 1.4A even if its at a KD DTP star
second Nichia NCSU276A U365 in S2+ colored host
die size 1x1mm
LED forward voltage of my one 3.84V @700mA
http://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/products/led/NCSU276A-E.pdf
Seems that UV is the new grey. The next light started itās life as a black Convoy S2+ host.
First the standard pill/reflector combo of the new S2+ was swapped against the short pill/long SMO reflector of my old titanium colored Convoy S2-UV. The 3*7135 AMC driver (a Nanjg AK-47A) from the S2 was also used.
You see both comboās are not fully ācompatibleā in height, so I finally skipped the centering ring in the new build (left).
Both springs are by-passed, of course.
The generic UV-led of the S2-UV was swapped with the 3535 Semileds UV-led of BLF-member led4power that was tested by djozz. To eliminate visible light I put in a ZWB2 filter.
In order not to generate unwanted āsecundaryā light I swapped the original fluorescent green O-ring against a black one.
To have a lighted tailcap I put a transculent tailcover and a nylon (M8) shim in the tail section. The rest is quite caveman-nish: I put a white 3mm led between the two ends of the switch. And presto. To bad the picture isnāt sharp (I had to choose between exposure and focus)
The result is a slim nice UV-thrower. The purple glow comes from the UV-light falling on a white table top.
Swapping the GITD o-ring is the first thing to do as it produces a large amount of green light on the edge of the beamā¦
You did good with that one !
Thank you! My idea was: why take all the trouble of eliminating unwanted light and leaving in a new source of it!
I hear ya, I donāt even put o-ring in my UV lightsā¦Theyāre not neccessary as I donāt use them in wet conditions soā¦
Toykeeper whats the sound unit in the first pic?
Oh, um, itās an old Sherwood RX-2030R. It just routes sound from a computer and powers some speakers. I have two cheap floor cabinet speakers from (IIRC) the 70s and two ācomputerā speakers on the top shelf from the 90s. They were all free and provide an okay sound without bugging my neighbors.
Edit: Er, thatād be the 1990s, not some other 90s. I try to update my stereo at least once per century. 