At the end of the day it is not of interest how often you did fall down, but how often you stood up again.
And don’t look at me for proof, but last week I actually managed to revive a light. By accident, of course.
Inductance can be replaced by any other approximately the same value (3.3-10µH)
But still there will be a low-frequency PWM
I’ve already remade my own 
I made a driver from Tamagotchi
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showpost.php?p=881876&postcount=20
They basically have problems with the button. Bad soldering. The contact falls off. Also fixable. But to untwist it is not so simple, glued.
the wk42 was a nightmare to work on, i thought i could neither find a suitable part, nor solder it on where it was supposed to go
plus i got tired of that button-wire-twisting issue, too
and the pwm was an annoyingly low frequency, as you pointed out,
plus i hated the UI (all roads lead to STROBE STROBE STROBE )
and the light color
but i liked it being small
so i direct-drived it, planning to only use cr123a batteries
wle
Inserting the driver back is not easy. :person_facepalming: 
On my own I accidentally broke the inductance. So I decided to replace the driver with a new one…
It’s a stupid design. As I was later convinced, it is assembled from the side of the LED.
Knock out the bulkhead between the driver and the LED star.
Insert the driver easily. Clog back the bulkhead. Put the LED and optics.
Are there any issues with drilling out the center led pads on the quad board? I’m thinking of trying this method because the copper heatsink/spacer I have already has a hole in the center.
You just need to remeber that board is not solid (multi-layer) and it is mostly copper. You need to make good point with punch, and after use at least two drill sizes - 1.5…2.5mm and 3.5…4.5mm. Copper is not very hard to drill, but please forget how did you drill steel or other materials. You need sharp drill bit (it may be low quality, but must have good edges - you may need to file them). Use low speed, and apply enough force down. If you make it right shavings is long, even single - from start to the end of drilling. After bigger bit you will need to use some reamer to fix small chips and edge places where upper layer of copper started to flake off. After all is done you need to test board short circuit with dmm.
as said, No. On the XP32 MCPCB the center pad is a separate circuit from the triple outer pads.
I prefer to solder the XP32 directly to the copper spacer. Once centered and cooled I drill from the back using the hole in the spacer as the center guide. This will peel up that layer of circuit for the center pad and I just peel that away to eliminate the sharp edges from cutting wires. I also use a bit that is larger than the hole and drill lightly on the face of the board. This will bevel the edge, again reducing the possibility of cutting into a wire. Also my personal prefrence is to use 18 or 20 AWG fine stranded silicone jacket wire. This usually means enlarging the hole in the spacer again. I do not use jumpers on the XP32… I solder the wires to the jumper pads eliminating the need for jumpers. Here is a pic.
That’s awesome. Thanks guys 
Good thinking about soldering the ledwires on top of the jumpers!
I think this is significantly more current than the XPL V6s I’ve used in a triple. Do those V4 80cri XPLs have a lower Vf?
It’s the quad set-up…
Have no idea what I was thinking, been looking at another light… obviously. 
What do you find about the flashlight?
I’m delaying the purchase because my recent experiences with Nitecore (EA11 & LR30) were not very good in performance. Not that bad, actually, just not that good.
Sorry for being out of topic.
These were XP-L 2 , if your leds were XP-L, that explains the difference.
I like it a lot sofar, the flashlight feels like you can toss it around, and that it will survive and keep working, but only time will tell.
The performance is not amazing with its 260 lumen and basic UI, but that is not the reason for this flashlight, this one is about simplicity: if my elderly neighbour finds it, it may take a while for him to find out how to open it but then he will just put in some penlites and it just works for him.
I like basic flashlights if they are build well, use common batteries and have modern performance, and this one feels and looks good too.
Ah, yes I missed that part.
OMG! I like this idea :+1:
From my latest wallet drain at Mouser also came some XP-L2 V3 4000K 80 CRI leds. And I still had a copper Maratac and I still had some tiny li-ion drivers from Mtn that were designed for Tools and Maratacs.
The spring already shows bypassed in the picture.
It was tiny but after some reflector shorts and other failures and quite some resoldering, I got it working.
Maratac on steroids!
I can’t remember what firmware was on the driver, probably something from Dr.Jones, it is a FET-driver with 4 high freq.PWMed modes without memory starting on low. On a freshly charged Efest 10440, measured after 30 seconds the outputs of the modes are 4 lm, 75 lm, 375 lm, 915 lm. 3 seconds after switch-on it was even 1275 lm. The fast output drop was almost entirely heat-sag because after cooling down and without battery re-charging, it again started at 1200+ lm.
So that is 3 amps draw from the poor tiny Efest cell which is disastrous for the capacity (like 3 times less mAh than at 1A). But it sure is bright!
Btw, the tint of this led is really good for a Cree led!
I’ve been pulling over 3A from an Efest 10440 for better than 4 years now… the custom made titanium and copper Texas Poker in my Avatar.
Fun, isn’t it?