I’m curious if the reflector is actually doing anything useful, in this setup. Have you tried it without?
It does good things, quite some light that comes off the hood’s white surface gets back into the head, and because everything is shiny in there almost all of it is not lost but is just reflected back out again for another chance to leave the light. But I agree that the shape of the reflector is of no influence on the beam/output.
Nice mod djozz. Its very creative the way you have attached the hood. Had me thinking for awhile. :+1:
Quite a while back, I modified my SupFire M6 to FET with 7 modes and reversing. It had XM-L2’s in it and a lockout tail switch. Today I got some SST-40’s in, so I swapped them in and re-flashed the driver (piggybacked FET) with Ramping firmware from TK.
Now, with a rested set of 30Q button tops, it makes 8866.5 lumens at the top level, 23.84 at the bottom. That’s over 3000 lumens increase, for swapping in a new emitter. Pretty sweet! 
I finally opened my first D4 one too many times and broke a switch wire. Opened it up, took everything apart, soldered new wires onto the switch PCB, soldered them onto the driver, went to put the driver back in, and one of the switch wires fell off again. Those switch PCB contacts are tiny and fragile and hard to attach anything to.
So I got the switch out again, tried to re-connect the wire, and the pad refused to take any solder. While trying to fix that, I managed to melt the switch itself into two pieces.
Fail.
I eventually got it working again, but I had to sacrifice parts from a dev host.
It reminds me of when I made some anagrams out of a friend’s name. One anagram was “Anna’s having oatmeal”. However, it can also spell “Oatmeal’s having Anna”. It seemed fitting; she can pick one or the other depending on how her day is going.
Today is definitely an “Oatmeal’s having Anna” kind of day.
More fun with boost drivers and tint/emitter mixing today. Finished my Convoy M1 kiriba-ru quad build today. Emitters are run in 2S2P on one of Richards MTN Quad boards.
I have 4 different nichias, 219B SW45K R9080 in series with a 219C SM303 R9050, and 219B SW40 R9080 in series with 219C SM4070e R9050.
The result is a beautiful 3800k-ish beam with a bit of rosyness and no yellow at all really to my eyes. My favorite light I’ve ever built actually. The beam on the 25mm Khatod quad optics is excellent as well, much nicer than the Carclo IMHO.
I have to thank Clemence for making these emitters available, kiriba-ru for making the M1 quad kit available, RMM for making the quad boards available, and Kaidomain for making a quality boost driver (H1-A) easily available. Wouldn’t be possible without their efforts too.
The white balance and exposure on the beamshot don’t do it justice, but the best I could do on my phone.
Also because I didn’t post it in this thread last time, here is my previous mixed emitter build. Mostly done just to show off why I find boost drivers to be advantageous. It is a Convoy S2+ with a kiriba-ru triple pill, modified to accept a 20mm driver so I can run H1-A. Optics are Carclo 10507
Emitters are a Nichia 219B SW40 R9080, Nichia 319A SM355 R8000, and Cree XP-G3 30G 80+ CRI. Result is a 3500k-ish beam which is quite nice, and thankfully doesn’t exhibit the tint shift of the XP-G3 once blended with the nichias.
Being able to freely mix emitters regardless of Vf in multi-emitter lights is a game changer IMO, and is one of the reasons I adopted boost drivers for almost all of my multi-emitter builds now. I will be running series emitters whenever possible from here out.
The H1-A isn’t for 6V emitters? 3pieces of 3V leds in series need 9V or not? Or you mod something on driver too?
@Jensen567
Very nice! I would like to try something like this. I only WISH the H1-A had an eswitch version!
ZozzV6:
You are correct. Stock the H1-A is suited for 6V emitters (like the 2S2P), but by changing one of the 47k feedback resistors to a 75k it can be setup for 9V operation no problem. I have several setup that way now, some have been running for a couple of months without issue.
LightRider:
I agree that they should make an e-switch version available, the MCU has a free pin which could be used for it. In the meantime, BLF user Cousin Elmer has written some basic custom firmware for the PIC on H1-A, so e-switch could likely be added if you’re willing to flash it yourself.
Jensen567 That is awsome. I think I will buy some. How much current it can put on the leds?
You are limited by the 10A input ceiling on the TPS61088 chip, so you can get about 24W fully regulated. Can do less too, tune the sense resistor to get the desired output. In my triples I usually use an R030 which is about 2.4A, for the 6V stuff I usually go with R020 which is good for about 3.5A. Stock is R025 which is a bit over 2.8A.
Really! What do I need to be able to flash? I suppose not usbasp, atmel studio, and avrdud and such?
Either the microchip ICD3 programmer, a PICKit, or Cousin Elmer built something out of a raspberry pi that he is using. There is some minor PCB modification to be done as well so you can pull the MCLR pin to programming voltage. Or you can just pull the IC off, program it, then stick it back on if you don’t change it often.
Kaidomain triple? Nice emitters! I like the KD optics too.
Just wondering if it’s a possibility, but couldn’t you just air wire a 13a MCU instead?
You could if you have the space in the host for it.
Cool, I just might attempt it, if I new how? 
Now if the driver originally was push button driver, and I wire up a 13a e-switch MCU it should work, since I’m going thru this MCU, or would I need something else?
Q8 modded
- cleaned the brass ring
- 3.2mm holes and countersunk 120° on the driver
- spring bypass
- Reflector screw replaced and LEDs centered
- original lubricant with a lot eloxal removed and replaced
- glue from all holes removed cutting the threads again
- some glue from the tubes tail blank surfaces removed
Unsoldered LEDs and switch just holding my temp stabilized iron at 300°C at the other side
also skillet might work well
then cut the trace to one LED and add a resistor
add solder paste
add resistor and wire
2 white LEDs with 19.1kOhms each
the camera might be false because of the button here, both are excactly the same brightness
