What did you mod today?

Modded my blue S2+ from XP-L HI to an XHP50 with an rather antique BLFDD-Z, with both sides populated and the big old FET. This driver has been in 4 different hosts before and works as good as when it was new, bought from Richard more than a year ago.

First problem was fitting the driver into the pill, it was impossible since the components are way too out. So I used a blank 17mm board to make a sandwich and used thermal adhesive to keep them together.

First we solder the XHP50 on noctigon directly to brass pill.

Making the sandwich

Negative contacts. Spring was removed and replaced by a bass pill to save space for the 2x18350s.

Driver in place

Using stock XM centering ring

The result? A flood monster that draws 5.2A on turbo and in close range puts all of my other tube lights to shame, including triple XP-L builds. The only exception is that I can only use turbo for 10 seconds tops, but totally worth it. :slight_smile:


Came home and used a proper multimeter, charged 18350s to full and tested again… Got 6.71A off the tail! I guess that’s nearly 50watts if the cells dropped to 3.7V. :open_mouth: I didn’t know the XHP50 pulled this much.

Ceiling bounce test:
Olight S10 max (rated 500lm): 27
BLF D80 turbo 3.8A: 59
Triple XP-L HI DD in copper sinner 9.2A: 135
XHP50 S2+ 6.7A: 152

This thing is really insane, and even if I only use it for 10 seconds the heat will actually come out after it’s been turn off.

Weird how a 1 year old driver can be regarded as antique :-)

Nice mod and really good pictures, everything looks well done and I like the blue host for the XHP50.

Well, what can i say… WOW, this one should put to shame a lot flashlights for those 10 seconds of run time on turbo mode, what is the calculated output on turbo? 3000+ lumens maybe?

I am working on Streamlight Waypoint upgrade

today i had to mod/repair my dmm, since it wouldn’t measure high amps with the 10A setting.
when taking the dmm apart i saw that the traces on the pcb was broken, might have happened when i shorted a samsung 30Q instead of reading the voltage :zipper_mouth_face:

so i had to solder a thick wire to make up for the broken traces. afterwards my BLF A6 still was 4.95A on turbo, and my BLF D80 was still 2.7A on turbo as well, so i think the repair turned out well.

my rechargeable flashlight suffered corrosion damage around the switched charging jack so I replaced it with a panel mount type wired to a tp4056 usb charging board.

All I did was to take the XM-L CW out and installed an XM-L2 3C on Noctigon. Noticed an increase in output and a much better tint. I really like the form of this light, almost a tube light but not quite! This is in prep for changing the driver, maybe…

Great thread idea! Saw a mini mag tail modification I hadn't seen before and thought I'd give it a try. Essentially the tail threads are cut off and replaced with a press fit plug with a spring soldered to it. This works as long as the light is modded Match style because the battery can be loaded or removed via the front of the battery tube. Of course I had to do it micro style.

1 Thank

I “finished” my B158 build today. I painted the pill top in flat black to cut down some reflections in the beam, and bypassed the tail spring. I have “finished” in quotations because it’s only finished for a couple weeks. Once my 20mm boards arrive from Oshpark, it will be the first recipient of my Rev4 lighted tailcap.

I modded my Novatac switch for momentary-off. Super simple. Now I need a driver and LED for it…

I took the driver out of my BLF A6 again, and put it into my Novatac Special ops

twist on button changes modes.

Super easy convoy C8 mod, XPL HI V2 1A, FET+1 A6 driver and coated glass. It’s quite a thrower! With my light meter calibrated at 250kcd with the M3XS UT, this C8 supposedly does 115kcd.

Convoy deep carry clip on BLF A6 :beer:

Cut up two minimags and reamed the ends for brass inserts. Silver one gets red enamel wood handle and black one something else. Tail switch mods but both stay with primaries. Maybe terralux LEDs.

I only filed the front of the bezel ring of a stainless steel AAA light, where it was uncomfortably square and sharp.

Put a 1A driver (AK-47C 3x7135) set up on three modes into a TG06 after filing it down to fit. Used an extra 5A XPL from my bare BLF A6 (7A XPL HI in it now) and made a nice EDC14500 light out of it… I have been enjoying less than max amps builds lately…

Swapped out the driver in my "Junkyard" mod & changed the emitter to a de-domed XP-L V5.

I'd had the driver in & out a few times, changing the resistors, & it was a pain to solder the heat-strap each time, so I modded it with a couple of PC motherboard standoffs, so I could just unscrew it.

The XP-L survived at that level, whereas it blew the XP-G2.

It punched out just under 600Kcd after focusing.

I've left enough slack in the LED leads so I can measure with the clamp meter, when the group buy goes ahead.

Nothing better to do on a gloomy Sunday… Old Coast G10 with Nichia now…

The G10 AAA light that Coast used to give away was one of my first flashlights, but once I found BLF, the G10 seemed underpowered.

I’ve kept it around because I really like the light. It is solid, and has a forward clicky tailcap switch, which is pretty cool for a AAA light, but I never could figure out how to disassemble it, or even figure out if it COULD be disassembled, until I found a thread last week (this one, I think, Simple Mod for a Coast G20) that showed the head removed.

Anyway, I got my son to get the head off (arthritis for me, so I have to recruit muscle nowadays). It was glued on there bad, but he got it off, and then I sat around trying to figure out how to get the driver out.

I eventually just took a pair of needlenose and ripped that out, since I knew I was going to put another driver in, to get modes.

The driver I wanted to use is the “AK-007” driver from DX.com/dxsoul.com (MEGAJUDI303 : Slot88 Slot Online Gacor Maxwin Pulsa Tanpa Potongan).

I soldered that driver to the original cheapo emitter but when I tried it with a 10440, I think it killed the emitter. I didn’t have any 10mm emitter boards, so that sat around for awhile… somehow I had a hard time ordering ONE 10mm star for $2+ and paying $2+ more for shipping…

Finally, I got this idea…

I still have a bunch of Nichia 119s that I bought from texaspro awhile ago (Nichia 119's for cheap (also Cree XLAMP-7090's)), and although I really like the tint, there’s only a few places that I’ve been able to use them, but I figured that maybe I could cut off the tophat emitter, run a wire through each of the holes in the original emitter PCB, bend the wires over, and solder one of the 119s to the wires, i.e., make a kind of homebrew star for the 119.

I just got that done, and amazingly it worked. The emitter is really badly off-center but this light/reflector seems to be pretty forgiving of that, and I now have a 10440-powered light with a forward clicky and Nichia 119 with nice tint.

I don’t dare take the light apart, but I got some external pics for you all:

Off-center emitter:

and white wall:

Hopefully the pics will show up - I’ve had problems hosting on onedrive before!

Opened my OPUS Dreamcharger, took out the fan, lubed it with a drop of Hoppes, and re-assembled. No more grinding noises from the fan and no more threats of being thrown in the snowbank by my wife. Take that in any way you wish but she really,really doesn't like that fan.

Swapped the driver out on my uf-1405 to a Mtn dd 17nm that I assembled today, wow. This thing now melts away the night. It already had a mt-g2 in it, now it’s just silly how bright this thing is.