I took a picture of my copper X5 XHP-50.2 and the BTU Shocker then photoshopped the clip from the X5 onto the Shocker just for chits and grins. 
This BTU Shocker is using 3 of the 9V variant MT-G2 for around 10,000 lumens. 
Yeh, I didnāt look closely at it but figured it was just for giggles. A 10,000 lm edc :smiling_imp:
hi CXR. How can you disassemble tac-o-click? My PK fell into the water so i need your help. Please.thanks bro
This light would work much better as a Key Chain version āā- :person_facepalming:
I have a Titanium X6 from Rey that utilizes 3 XHP-50.2 for over 10,000 lumens, entirely pocketable of course. Uses 2 of the Aspire 18350 cells. 11,230 or something like that, out the front. Itās pretty mind boggling really.
<ā- thatās it in my Avatar. Complete with all itās Tritium inserts.
Edit: Um, well, itās pocketable BEFORE you run it in Turbo!
The switch in the PK Paladin/ Knight cannot be disassembled without damage to the light as far I could tell, I even had a chat with the designer about it.
I tried but did not succeed, finally I drilled out the switch from the inside for my mod. There is a momentary switch mounted on a PCB in the tail with a weak spring.
There seems to be a one time locking mechanism/ ring for the tailcap that is not intended to release after munufacture.
Most likely it is the driver and not the switch. You can test the light with the battery and a piece of wire?
Put triple LH351D in E2L behind carclo frosted narrow optics.
Vs Luxeon V:
Vs XPL HI:
Vs 219C:
Swapped my UTorch UT01 emitters, the nice tint emitter went into the unit with the more reliable switch
Swapped my Sofirn SF14 emitters, the nice tint emitter went into the unit with the more reliable driver
Funny to see the differences, one of my UT01s has a screw-in reflector, the other has an unthreaded reflector and inner side of the head. The SF14s bought month apart have a different switch and a different sized rubber cap. The walls of the raised part of the tailcap is also thicker on the one with the larger rubber boot. Too bad they didnāt take the opportunity to make the groove on the head side of the tube wide enough for the clip to snap reversed
I got a few A01 with the new next mode memory today. The new 219C looks very ugly compared to the older 219b lights, they appear much brighter but also they donāt have that nice warm rosy glow that I prefer on the older A01s.
I followed this tutorial but it doesnāt seem to work very well for the lights I got. They all need to have a LOT of graphite on them, I covered one completely in graphite on the top and it did nothing. I added some to the side (away from the red) and it did seem to work. I had covered all of them at the top with graphite and some at the side to make it work.
I have one that doesnāt seem to work with the graphite mod at all. It simply refuses to lose the next mode memory.
I put together a Convoy M2 with a XM-L2 7A3 CRI90 emitter.
I first installed a Convoy driver with Biscotti, but I found the output a bit on the low side. So I put in a BLF A6 driver with out any spring bypass I get 4.98A on turbo and 2.05A after step down.
^ that is still one of my favourite emitters and I keep a small stash of them for future use. They are not efficient to todays standards, if pushed hard they make close to 1000 lumen OTF (compared to 1500 lumen at the same current from a cool XP-L), but you get a fantastic illumination. I have one in a Kaidomain K2 host with the same driver and it is my go-to flashlight for camping.
I have them in my 2 SR-mini and they still are the best CREE for ambient lighting
I have one in a Skilhunt H02 with a Lexel build TA driver with NarsilM, one in a Eagle Eye X7 I bought from a friendly modder here on BLF , a triple UniqueFire UF-1408 with a MTN-22DDm driver, and when led4power puts the new Q8 MCPCB up for sale I will put some in a Q8.
Oh and they are a really good option in Olight S baton series behind their unique TIR (which doesnāt like 3535 LED at allā¦)
I put some in my S2, S2R, S1R, S1Aā¦
Got a red sofirn SP10B today for my daughter, real nice light for the 10 dollars with a great moonlight mode. Put a 4000k 219c in it and also in my D25c ti.
Put some LH351Dās in some lights.
The first one was my Emisar D1ā¦ and the LED didnāt like the Turbo mode AT ALLā¦ it turned blue 
Maybe my reflowing wasnāt really well doneā¦
Fortunately, the other three are in more reasonable configurations :
From left to right : S2+ Biscotti 8*7135, Utorch UT01, Lumintop Tool AA Biscotti 5*7135
The far right is my T10 with 219B
I really like the tint and CRI of these little gemsā¦ I have to buy more when theyāre available
@X3, yep that is was probably happened. Bad reflow job. The LH351D is a bit tougher of an LED compared to the XPL HI, so should not have turned blue.
I have the same experience with the single LH351D no matter how careful I reflow they turn blue. The four I reflowed and put in my D4 didnāt change color.
Do you use Lexelās suggest about 1Ā°/sec temperature raise speed?